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<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
November 2007
Volume 8 Issue 11 circulation
over 5,000
2008 Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo
www.BenchConference.com
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly
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<=> <=> <=> TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do
Repairs
From Alan Revere
Making A Setting Snake
Setting
a valuable gem in a difficult setting
can be
nerve wracking, lonely work. As an
example you are setting a heavy bezel with a
punch and hammer, but the stone—which is a
little too small—swims around whenever you move
the metal. It is times like these that every
setter needs the comfort of a pet—a setting
snake.
Setting
snakes do not eat much, they are easy
to care
for, and they show their appreciation
by helping you hold stones down during setting.
Here
is how to make your own.
Take
a small piece of sticky wax like the
microcrystalline wax setters use to pick up
diamonds (beeswax will work, too). Roll the
wax until it becomes a thin worm, about 1 mm in
maximum diameter at the mid-section. Now your
setting snake is ready to slither into action.
Neatly
place the snake right across the top of
the setting and the stone, securing it like a
strap to hold parts in place. Now you can use
a punch
and hammer without fear of dislodging
the stone. When the job is done, just roll
the
snake back up into the wax and save it for
another day.
This tip is from 101 Bench Tips
for Jewelers
written by Alan Revere and published by
MJSA/AJM
Press.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
One
who is serious all day will never have a
good time, while one who is frivolous all day
will never establish a household.
Ptahhotep
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<=> <=> <=> COLORED STONES <=> <=> <=>
Learn all About Handling
Colored Stones
from Gemstone Cutter
As we continue our discussion
of the general
handling of colored gems at the bench, I would
like to repeat some general guidelines for
those readers who are joining us this issue.
First, proper identification of
the gemstone is
mandatory. If you have reason
to question the
identity of the stone or you are generally
unsure, you only have two good choices. The
first is to have a proper identification made
so that you can then proceed accordingly, or,
remove the stone from its setting. When I ran
my shop, the ironclad rule was to remove all
questionable colored gems from the mountings
when torch-level heat was to be applied to the
piece. When in doubt,
take it out! Of course,
laser welders, used properly, limit the risk,
but remember that those little facets can act
like mirrors to that laser beam, so be
cautious!
Also as you may remember from
previous articles
that I discourage the use of steam cleaners
with colored gems, as the sudden temperature
change they create will often completely
destroy a gemstone. And I
have personal
experience of just that. For the same reason,
use caution with ultrasonic cleaners. Place
the gem or jewelry in a glass beaker with room
temperature cleaner and immerse it in the
ultrasonic, letting the temperature rise
gradually. And, finally, wait
for pieces to
cool before immersing them in pickle.
You can contact
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
All
hard work brings a profit, but mere talk
leads only to poverty.
Proverbs
14:23
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* Gems & Findings division
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<=> <=> Tips &
Tricks from
When channel setting it is
of utmost importance
to cut a precise seat. If the
stone fits
loosely in the seat it will be difficult to
tighten and problems will develop during the
setting process.
Place
rings on a steel mandrel when channel
setting rather than holding in a ring clamp.
This
will provide the needed support when
hammering.
When
setting a straight row channel set band
place the ring on a ring mandrel and tap the
sidewall over the stones with a hammer
handpiece on your flex-shaft. Rest the
mandrel
on your
bench pin and slowly rotate it while
hammering the channel edge down. This will
help keep the channel wall even and smooth.
If a channel is too wide
for the stones you are
setting tap down on the top of the channel wall
without the stones in place. This
will spread
the metal closing the channel. Then, anneal
the mounting to soften the channel wall prior
to setting the stones.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
There
is no expedient to which a man will not
go to
avoid the real labor of thinking.
Thomas
Edison
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The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent
Online
Resources. Open to the public
Free of Charge.
A substantial library of
articles,
publications, reports, and technical data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual visitor and the
professional, also host the popular Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips That Make Working with
Platinum or
Working at the Bench in General
Easier
from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
Take
a separating disc that is in a mandrel and
insert it into a flex-shaft. Using a fairly
high speed, score a second separating disc in
four places. Mount the modified disk on a
mandrel and use it as you would use a lapping
wheel. The advantage of this modification is
that you can see right through the rotating
disc,
which makes it much easier to work.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Those
who say it cannot be done, are usually
interrupted by someone doing it.
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<=> <=> TAKE-IN NOT TAKEN <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Taking In
Jewelry at the
Repair Counter.
Proper Take-In Procedures Help Everyone!
Clearly, specifically, and
completely write the
repair instructions in terms the bench jeweler
understands. You want to
eliminate confusing,
incomplete, or inaccurate instructions and with
them the chance of unacceptable or unwanted
repairs. Do not write
please fix or solder.
State exactly what the customer
wants repaired.
Always measure and record
finger size of rings
with cracked shanks. Then, if a piece of the
shank breaks off in the shop, the jeweler knows
what size the ring should be. This also helps
later if the ring does not fit when the
customer returns.
Fully describe on the envelope
any engraving on
the inside of the shank and explain to the
customer that while you will try not to disturb
the engraving, some sizing and repair work may
necessitate re-engraving the ring.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
I am
a firm believer in negative thinking when
used correctly. We need to be AWARE of
negatives so that we can steer clear of them.
A
golfer needs to know where the bunkers and
sand traps are - but he does not think
continuously about the bunker - where he does
not want to go. His mind glances at the
bunker,
but he dwells upon the green.
Dr.
Maxwell Maltz
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<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From
Eye
protection in the workshop usually consists
of using safety glasses and/or a face shield.
Polycarbonate
glasses are good. Aside from
protection from sharp objects, flying chunks,
dust,
chemicals, fumes, liquids and hot metal
splashes,
we have to deal with glowing
materials (infrared light), the blue flame of a
high-temperature torch (ultraviolet light) and
sodium glare or flare.
Most
glasses and polycarbonates will stop the
ultraviolet. So will most contact
lenses. The
infrared is stopped by a shade: numbers 2 and
up are
usually suggested. It is important that
one understands that a tinted lens does not
offer infrared protection---only a shaded lens
offers protection. Side shields that stop UV
and infrared
are also a good idea. The sodium
flare,
which is more of a problem for glass
workers,
is stopped by didymium glasses.
For more information on
Workshop safety from
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
People
are like stained-glass windows. They
sparkle and shine when the sun is out, but when
the darkness sets in, their true beauty is
revealed only if there is a light from within.
Elisabeth Kubler-Ross
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