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<=>  <=>  <=>  <=>  E-BENCH  <=>  <=>  <=>  <=>

   The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers

 

October 2006

Volume 7 Issue 10        circulation over 4,400

 

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  <=>  <=>    ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER    <=>  <=> 

 

E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail

Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench

Jewelers and anyone else that is interested.

 

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E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication

BENCH MEDIA is a division of

B W Simon International

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daniel@spirerjewelers.com

 

 

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                  BENCH VISION

   A Video Magazine for Bench Jewelers on DVD

 

Each quarterly issue contains 1 hour of video

training including: Stone Setting, Jewelry

Repair, and Custom Jewelry Manufacturing.  Plus

Bench Tips, Bench Visits, and New Product

Reviews.

 

Only $95 per year in the USA or Canada

and Only $125 per year for oversea delivery.

        http://www.BWSimon.com/BenchVision

                  BENCH VISION

   A Video Magazine for Bench Jewelers on DVD

 

Each quarterly issue contains 1 hour of video

training including: Stone Setting, Jewelry

Repair, and Custom Jewelry Manufacturing.  Plus

Bench Tips, Bench Visits, and New Product

Reviews.

 

Only $95 per year in the USA or Canada

and Only $125 per year for oversea delivery.

        http://www.BWSimon.com/BenchVision

 

 

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<=>  <=>  <=>  TIPS FOR JEWELERS  <=>  <=>  <=>

 

Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs

From Alan Revere

Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

 http://www.revereacademy.com

 

NO SWEAT: Sweat Soldering Made Easy

 

Nearly every bench jeweler who has tried it

finds soldering a small piece of sheet cleanly

and perfectly onto a larger one exceedingly

difficult.  Soldering a pierced monogram onto a

sheet, for instance, is no simple matter.  Most

bench jewelers would sweat solder the pieces

together (i.e. solder them in stages) by first

flowing solder onto the back of the monogram

and then placing it onto the sheet.  The

assembly is heated, and the two pieces join

when the solder flows for a second time.

 

The trick is to have just the right amount of

solder in the right places.  Too often, not all

areas of the seam are soldered completely, or

they are flooded with too much solder (or

both).  To sweat solder with accuracy, you must

first properly prepare the top piece to receive

the solder, by routing out metal from the back.

 

Use a pair of dividers to trace the outline

onto the back, leaving an inscribed border

about 0.5 mm inside the edge.  Now, with a ball

bur, carve away the surface about 0.2 mm deep,

leaving the border intact.  Flow the solder

into the recessed area and then file the

surface, so that the solder and the surrounding

edge are perfectly flat.  Place the monogram in

position on the clean backing and trace it with

a pencil.  Flux within the traced outline, then

flux and position the monogram.  Heat from

below—and watch with delight as the monogram

settles gently into place, with a perfectly

even seam all around.  Once you have tried

this, you will never attempt sweat soldering

any other way!

 

 

This tip is from 101 Bench Tips for Jewelers

written by Alan Revere and published by

MJSA/AJM Press.

 

 

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  <=>  <=>  QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING  <=>  <=> 

 

But one thing I do: Forgetting what is behind

and straining toward what is ahead, I press on

toward the goal.

Philippians 3: 13

 

 

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             The Ganoksin Project

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The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online

Resources.  Open to the public

 

               Free of Charge.

 

A substantial library of articles,

publications, reports, and technical data on

gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a

sizable collection of art and jewelry

galleries, for both the casual visitor and the

professional, also host the popular Orchid

online forums for jewelers.

 

 

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<=>  <=>  <=>  COLORED STONES  <=>  <=>  <=>

 

Learn all about handling colored stones from

gemstone cutter Wayne Emery

 

CUBIC ZIRCONIA

 

Cubic zirconia is sometimes confused with

zircon, but zircon is a natural gem material,

while cubic zirconia is grown in the

laboratory. Optically, it is very close to

diamond in its refractive index and similar in

dispersion.  A properly cut and polished

colorless cubic zirconia is difficult to

separate from diamond by eye when mounted. 

However, most cubic zirconia seen in the trade

is mass produced on huge cutting machines and

exhibits slightly rounded facet edges and poor

meets, and often is not polished extremely

well.

 

Cubic zirconia is about 8.5 on the Mohs

hardness scale, but it is somewhat brittle. 

The hardness and brittleness vary somewhat

between the colorless material and the various

colored and color-change cubic zirconia

sometimes available.

 

Generally, cubic zirconia can take quite a bit

of heat, but it is better to avoid sudden

heating or cooling.  It is impervious to most

acids and pickle will not harm it, nor will the

ultrasonic cleaner.  Shown is a custom cut

cubic zirconia with no flat facets on the crown

except for the table.  The crown consists of

two simple conical sections, smoothly polished.

 

 

You can contact Wayne Emery at

 wayne_emery@msn.com

 

 

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  <=>  <=>  QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING  <=>  <=> 

 

The reward of a thing well done is to have done it.

Ralph Waldo Emerson

 

 

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       United Precious Metal Refining

 

United is a full service refiner for Gold,

Silver, Platinum, & Palladium.  We specialize

in Refining for the jewelry Industry,

processing everything from sweeps to karat

scrap. 

 

Technical assistance on all phases of

manufacturing and jewelry casting is only a

phone call away.  Call us today at

1-800-999-3463 or visit us online at

 http://www.unitedpmr.com/  

 

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               Simply the Best

 

 

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<=> <=>  Tips & Tricks from Brad Simon   <=> <=>

 

A Perfect Fit

 

Many times a guy will come into the store

wanting to purchase a ring for his girlfriend,

but does not know what size ring she wears. 

Having the girlfriend come into the store to

measure her finger will spoil the surprise, and

he wants her to be able to wear the ring after

he gives it to her without her having to wait

for you to size the ring.

 

Here is one method to overcome this dilemma.

 

Have the man take a ring that he knows fits her

and slide it onto several of his fingers and

remember where on his finger the ring fits. 

Sometimes this can be accomplished without her

knowing.  Other times it can be done during a

casual conversation without her knowing what he

is up to.  For example he could say something

about how small her fingers are and say I bet

your ring does not even fit my little finger. 

Then proceed to slide the ring on his little

finger, and then try it on a couple of other

fingers.

 

Then when he comes back into your store you can

measure his fingers where her ring fit and

determine the size you need to make her new

ring.  Having him fit her ring onto several

fingers makes it easier to be more accurate in

determining the correct size.

 

 

You can contact Brad at Brad@BWSimon.com

 

 

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  <=>  <=>  QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING  <=>  <=> 

 

Employ your time in improving yourself by other

mens writings, so that you shall gain easily

what others have labored hard for.

Socrates

 

 

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  <=>  Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel  <=>

 

Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the

ongoing discussions, or just read and take in

all the advice from many excellent jewelers

from around the world.

 

Membership includes: Topical Discussion

Channels, including

Bench Work, CAD-CAM, Stone Setting, and many

more.  You may buy, sell and trade on the

Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.

 

 

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  <=>  <=>    AT THE PLATINUM BENCH   <=>  <=>

 

Tips that make working with Platinum or

working at the bench in general easier-

from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,

Director of Technical Education

for Platinum Guild International

 http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com

 

PEARL CLAMP

 

It is important to use a vise to secure a pearl

while drilling to avoid the pearl slipping and

accidentally drilling into your fingers.  A

wooden spring action clothespin can be easily

modified to do this job.

 

First, with a large ball bur, carve an

indentation into the interior of each jaw.  The

indentations should be just deep enough to keep

the pearl from slipping out during drilling. 

Now all you have to do is insert the pearl into

the clothespins jaws, and allow the pins light

pressure to securely hold the pearl during

drilling.

 

When you want to glue an earring post to the

pearl you can use this new clamp as well. 

Simply cut a slot in the front end of one of

the clothespin jaws, wide enough to fit the new

post.  Then open the clothespin, rest the pearl

between the jaws, and fit the post through the

slot.  Once closed the clothespin will again

apply enough pressure to secure the assembly

and ensure that the glue affixes properly.

 

 

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  <=>  <=>  QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING  <=>  <=> 

 

The credit belongs to those people who are

actually in the arena…who know the great

enthusiasms, the great devotions to a worthy

cause; who at best, know the triumph of high

achievement; and who, at worst, fail while

daring greatly … so that their place shall

never be with those cold and timid souls who

know neither victory nor defeat.

Theodore Roosevelt

 

 

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JewelersTraining.com is the first and finest On

Demand Jewelry Video Training Website. 

JewelersTraining.com is designed by Jewelers

for Jewelers.  Our mission is to provide

jewelers with the best online jewelry education

with On Demand Videos and other training

resources.

 

Log onto JewelersTraining.com Today and sign-up

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  <=>  <=>  <=>  Gemz from Gerry  <=>  <=>  <=>

 

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

 http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com

by Gerald N. Lewy

 

Before placing a ring on a ring mandrel, take a

few extra moments and check the culets of any

stones. If the culet protrudes into the finger

hole, slide the ring onto a grooved mandrel.

 

 

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  <=>  <=>  QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING  <=>  <=> 

 

Forget the word disappointment.  Failures are

but fingerposts pointing out the right

direction to those who are willing to learn.

Thomas Edison

 

 

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             Southeastern Findings

 

Southeastern Findings has been a leader in the

wholesale jewelry business for the past 27

years servicing the Independent Jeweler.  We

are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding Bands, Jewelry

Boxes, Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much

More.

 

Call us Today at 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on

the World Wide Web at:

      http://www.sefindings.com

 

        Namano / Southeastern Findings

      Your Home for Southern Hospitality

 

 

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 <=> <=>  WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS  <=> <=>

 

Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian

 

HANDLING GASES

 

All jewelers work with gasses for soldering and

melting and sometimes other reasons.  Talk to

your local fire department and gas supplier to

find out the storage rules for your area and to

check for torch safety rules.  Different torch

systems have positive and negatives to them and

your choice will depend upon what kind of work

you are doing.  Each will have different safety

considerations.  Storage of acetylene and other

gases may affect your insurance so you should

check with your insurance company regarding

your shop, its set up and what you can do to

lower your risk and hence premiums.

 

Worn hoses and improperly maintained torch

connections and hoses can cause fires.  Always

regularly maintain and check these things.  In

general test all connections for leaks every

time you change something in the system, avoid

oils on gas fittings (can spontaneously combust

from oxygen), keep cylinders chained up, never

have a main valve on more than 1/4 turn so you

can turn it off quickly in an emergency, find

out the rules for handling your particular

system and follow them.

 

It is important that you get trained, licensed

professionals to do, or at least to guide,

inspect and put their own stamp of approval on

any gas line work your do.  At least get the

work inspected by the fire department.  Make

sure you follow any city codes and government

regulations.

 

Propane sinks so it tends to pool at the floor,

find the stairs and go down in the basement

until it finds the pilot light on the water

heater.  Pipe propane in from outside or use

small disposable tanks indoors - test it and

turn it off religiously at the end of the day.

 

Some jewelers use hydrogen.  It is very

flammable and needs extra precautions.

 

In large cities (and in smaller ones) many

trade jewelers have switched from compressed

fuel gasses in tanks to water torches.  This is

a torch system that breaks down distilled water

to make hydrogen and oxygen for the torch

flame.  This produces a very clean torch flame.  

Besides having a clean, small flame ideal for

repair work and general goldsmithing a major

advantage for the trade jeweler is grounds for

lower insurance premiums because no fuel gas is

stored on the premises, only water.

 

For more information on Workshop safety from

Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:

 http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm

 

 

     ((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))

 

  <=>  <=>  QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING  <=>  <=> 

 

The last of the human freedoms is to choose

ones attitude in any given set of

circumstances.

Victor Frankl

 

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                  RIO GRANDE

 

For over 60 years, Rio Grande , a full-line

jewelry supplier, has provided quality

products, unsurpassed selection and legendary

service to help professional jewelers succeed.

 

* Gems & Findings division offers finished

jewelry, findings and gemstones

 

* Display & Packaging division offers

innovative display and packaging

 

* Tools division offers equipment and supplies

 

Call us at 1-800-545-6566 or visit us at

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  <=>  <=>    Thank You for Reading     <=>  <=> 

 

We are on the World Wide Web.

Visit us at: http://www.BWSimon.com

A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is

located there. 

 

Visit often, as we will be making changes to

our site, adding additional useful information

for bench jewelers.

 

 

<=>  <=>   SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION   <=>  <=>

 

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             < < < < < <> > > > > > 

 

Information provided in this document is

provided As Is without warranty of any kind,

either expressed or implied.  This publication

is designed to provide accurate and

authoritative information concerning the

subject matter covered.  It is provided with

the understanding that the author or publisher

is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting,

or other professional services.  If legal

advice or other expert assistance is required,

the services of a competent professional person

should be sought.

 

             < < < < < <> > > > > > 

 

For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas

or requests, please send an E-Mail to

Brad Simon mailto: Brad@BWSimon.com

 

Copyrighted, 2006, BENCH MEDIA. 

All rights reserved.

 

BENCH MEDIA

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Spartanburg , SC 29302

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