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<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=>
The E-Mail Newsletter
for Bench Jewelers
August 2006
Volume 7 Issue 08 circulation over 4,300
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Do You Want to Improve Your Pave Setting?
Would You Like to Channel Set Princess Cuts
Better?
Then you need to attend Bench Seminars!
Learn How to Set Stones Easier, Faster, and
with Less Stone Breakage. You will see STONE
SETTING demonstrated from PAVE SETTING to
PRINCESS CHANNELS to FLUSH SETTING and Much
More. Working with PLATINUM,
HAND FABRICATION,
and BENCH TIPS is also included.
This Is One Seminar You Do Not Want To Miss!
LOCATIONS & DATES
For more information and to register log onto:
http://www.BWSimon.com/Conference/seminars/
or call 864-680-6660
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench
Jewelers and anyone else that is interested.
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daniel@spirerjewelers.com
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
CLASP - A
Convergence of Jewelers
http://www.claspconvergence.com
Clasp will be the first conference of its kind—
an education and networking conference
specifically designed to serve small
manufacturers, metalsmiths, designing jewelers
and bench jewelers.
Brought to you by
Ganoksin Project (parent to the Orchid Forums),
Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of
(MJSA), and The Society of North American
Goldsmiths (SNAG).
For more information and to register go to:
http://www.claspconvergence.com
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<=> <=> <=> TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
From Alan Revere
Melting Points: Testing Hard, Medium, and Easy Solders
Solder comes in different grades or melting temperatures, ranging from hard (the highest temperature) to medium and then easy (the lowest). Jewelers begin assembling with hard solder, then step down in temperature with each successive nearby soldering operation as needed, allowing for multiple soldering at close quarters without melting previous seams.
But what if you are using solders from different suppliers? Unfortunately, solders rarely have their melting temperatures indicated, and the lack of a standard among suppliers makes it difficult to know which solder will really melt first.
To fully take advantage of the solders you have, try the following procedure. Clean and flux a sheet of silver or brass measuring about 25 mm square. Now cut a snippet of each solder to be tested, then flux and arrange the samples in a pattern on the sheet. Make a corresponding chart on a piece of paper.
Heat the entire sheet very evenly from below, raising the temperature as slowly as possible. First the flux dries and then it vitrifies, flowing like glass. As the temperature of the metal rises, the solder with the lowest melting temperature will melt first. Continued heating demonstrates the order of progressively higher melting temperatures. As this occurs, enter the order on the paper chart, beginning with 1 for the first and lowest temperature sample.
Once all the samples have melted, mark each solder sheet with its place in the order of relative temperatures. From now on, whenever you want to assemble a complicated item involving several joints, you can safely begin with the highest number solder, stepping down with subsequent soldering operations. Repeat the testing procedure every time you add new solder to your supply.
This information is particularly useful in jewelry repair, since the strength of the piece is usually more important than the karat of the solder used to repair it — for any given repair job, the range of available solder temperatures might extend across karats!
This tip is from 101 Bench Tips for Jewelers
written by Alan Revere and published by
MJSA/AJM Press.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
The sea is dangerous and its storms terrible, but these obstacles have never been sufficient reason to remain ashore… unlike the mediocre, intrepid, spirits seek victory over those things that seem impossible… it is with an iron will that they embark on the most daring of all endeavors… to meet the shadowy future without fear and conquer the unknown. Ferdinand Magellan
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Southeastern Findings
Southeastern Findings has been a leader in the
wholesale jewelry business for the past 27
years servicing the Independent Jeweler. We
are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding Bands, Jewelry
Boxes, Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much
More.
Call us Today at 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web at: http://www.sefindings.com
Namano /
Southeastern Findings
Your Home for
Southern Hospitality
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<=> <=> <=> COLORED STONES <=> <=> <=>
Learn all about handling colored stones from
gemstone cutter
CORAL
While not strictly a gem material (it is an organic substance not a mineral), its use in jewelry throughout history was common. In many places red coral is now a protected species, and it is becoming less commonly seen, but there remain many fine pieces, some very highly prized and expensive, of red or pink angelskin coral cabochons, intaglios and cameos.
Coral is calcium carbonate, which is actually a form of the fragile mineral calcite. It ranges in color from white to pale pink, salmon pink, pale to deep rose- red and dark red. Rarely, black coral is found and is highly prized in some parts of the world. Coral accepts dyes readily and is dyed many colors. These dyes range from persistent aniline dyes to ordinary vegetable dye, and may not be resistant to cleaning, so test any cleaning method on an unexposed portion of the piece in question. Coral may be banded or zoned, and always shows a cellular structure, although you may need a loupe to see it.
All coral is rather soft and easily scratched. Acids of any sort must be avoided, especially pickle. Coral is very heat sensitive, and some ultrasonic cleaning solutions are not safe.
As with most fragile lapidary materials, the best way to clean coral is with a mild liquid hand soap and warm water.
Pink, red and salmon colors in smaller sizes are sold on a per stone basis, with red being the most expensive at about $50-60 for a 12 x 10 mm cabochon. Pink coral will usually be about a quarter of that cost. As the size increases, so do the cost differentials. Currently a fine pink cab measuring 18 x 13 costs about $60 wholesale, but a red of the same size could cost as much as $50 per carat! Be careful!
Coral simulants include glass, plastic and proprietary material made especially to imitate the various colors of coral. All should be treated carefully, as if they were coral.
You can contact
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Nothing in the world will take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than the unsuccessful person with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. Calvin Coolidge
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
BENCH
VISION
A Video Magazine for
Bench Jewelers on DVD
Each quarterly issue contains 1 hour of video
training including: Stone Setting, Jewelry
Repair, and Custom Jewelry Manufacturing. Plus
Bench Tips, Bench Visits, and New Product
Reviews.
Only $95 per year in the
and Only $125 per year for oversea delivery.
http://www.BWSimon.com/BenchVision
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MJSA Trade Show for Jewelry Making
Taking place
on September 27 and 28, 2006, at
the
serving
jewelry makers of all types—from
artisans and
designers operating out of small
shops and
studios to large manufacturing
operations. TSJM will provide these industry
professionals
with a unique opportunity to see,
in one
convenient location, a full range of the
products they
need to make their jewelry and
successfully
operate their businesses.
If you’re
looking to brush up on your skills,
be sure to
stop by one of the free
Academy
seminars being held on the show floor.
Seminar
presenters are Cindy Edelstein; Karen
Christians;
Chris Ploof; and LeeAnn Herreid.
To register
for the show, visit www.mjsa.org.
For more
information, call 1-800-444-6572.
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<=> <=> Tips & Tricks from
CHAIN REPAIR
When taking in a broken
chain for repair, first
measure and record to the
nearest eighth of an
inch the total length of
all pieces of the
chain. If its length is only 10 or 12 inches,
you know—and should tell
the customer— that a
piece of chain is missing.
Next, measure (again to the
nearest eighth of
an inch) and record the
length from the chains
clasp to the break. If the customer brings the
chain in again, this record
shows if the chain
has broken in a new spot or
in the repaired
spot.
NEVER accept a chain from a
customer wrapped in
a tissue and place it into
an envelope without
unwrapping, measuring, and
inspecting it
thoroughly in view of the
customer.
Put the chain in a small zip-lock bag with the
catch sticking out of the top. To keep the
chain from tangling, hold it by the clasp and
slide it out of the bag. Do not open bag and
dump the chain out!
You can contact Brad at Brad@BWSimon.com
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Sow your seed in the morning, and at evening let not your hands be idle, for you do not know which will succeed, whether this or that, or whether both will do equally well. Ecclesiastes 11: 6
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
United Precious
Metal Refining
United is a full service refiner for Gold,
Silver, Platinum, & Palladium. We specialize
in Refining for the jewelry Industry,
processing everything from sweeps to karat
scrap.
Technical assistance on all phases of
manufacturing and jewelry casting is only a
phone call away. Call
us today at
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United Precious
Metal Refining
Simply
the Best
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips that make working with Platinum or
working at the bench in general easier-
from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
950/50 PLATINUM /COBALT ALLOY
needs to be alloyed. These platinum alloys have different advantages and are used for specific purposes. The flow properties of the 950/50 platinum/cobalt mixtures are best suited for casting. With this alloy, very fine pieces of excellent quality can be cast, and considerable detail can be achieved. Pt/Co has an annealed hardness (HV) of 130 and when cold-worked achieves a hardness (HV) of 270. It polishes well and holds its luster for a long time. When welded with a torch Pt/Co may oxidize slightly. This can be removed by fire coating the object after the initial welding and re- heating it to about 1000° F. Pickle in a 10% solution of nitric acid. The oxidation will not reappear during wear. It is not possible to torch-weld different Pt alloys together as they have different melting points. It is always safe to solder them together using 1500 or 1700 solder. As a point of interest, Pt/Co is slightly magnetic.
Be sure to wear #5 or #6 welding goggles to protect your eyes.
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Platinum Guild International and Bench Media
Present – Bench Seminars
Master Level Seminars presented by two of the
Industrys Foremost Seminar
Leaders. Seminars
include: Platinum Bench Techniques, Advanced
Fabrication, Advanced Stone Setting, and Bench
Tips & Other Tricks.
Seminar Leaders
will present these seminars in
September 22nd, and
For more information and to register log onto:
http://www.BWSimon.com/Conference/seminars/
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to success is more important than any other one thing. Abraham Lincoln
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
The Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources. Open to the
public
Free of
Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual visitor and the
professional, also host the popular Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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<=> <=> <=> Gemz from Gerry <=> <=> <=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com
by Gerald N. Lewy
High Speed Steel Burs
High-speed steel refers to the tensile strength of the steel used to make the burr. It must not be misconstrued for the general usage and the turning speed of the burr. When using a high speed steel burr for preparing the seats for a solitaire, I will make sure that the speed of the drill is just fast enough that I cannot see the teeth of the bur turning. That gives me total control over the burr. Remember high speed steel is the name for the type of the steel the bur is made from not the speed to use it at.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
The older I get, the more wisdom I find in the ancient rule of taking first things first – a process which often reduces the most complex human problems to manageable proportions. Dwight D. Eisenhower
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
For over 60 years,
jewelry supplier, has provided quality
products, unsurpassed selection and legendary
service to help professional jewelers succeed.
* Gems & Findings division offers finished
jewelry, findings and gemstones
* Display & Packaging division offers
innovative display and packaging
* Tools division offers equipment and supplies
Call us at 1-800-545-6566 or visit us at
http://www.riogrande.com
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<=>
<=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR
JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
LIGHTING
You should have lots of
good lighting around
your work area, nice
diffuse lighting overhead
and local lights (like desk
lamps) in other
places where you need
light. In our teaching
studio we have desk lamps
mounted on the wall
every six feet or so. On my own bench I have
two, one on each side so
that I can position
good light anywhere on the
bench surface and
also can light an object on
my bench pin from
two sides thus eliminating
shadows. I like
daylight fluorescents
overhead.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Keough Commandments for Losing: 1. Quit taking risk. 2. Be content. 3. Before you make any move, always ask yourself: What will the investors think? 4. Avoid change. 5. Be totally inflexible – stay on the course, no matter what. 6. Rely totally on research and experts to make decisions for you. 7. Be more concerned with status than service. 8. Concentrate on your competitor instead of your customers. 9. Put yourself first in everything you do, ahead of your customers and suppliers. 10. Memorize the formula TGE – That is Good Enough to set a ceiling on quality.
Then add a bonus rule: 1. Find a way to rationalize the slowing growth. Don Keough, CEO, Coca-Cola
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Jewelry Dealers
World Trade Network
http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com
<=> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <=>
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the
ongoing discussions, or just read and take in
all the advice from many excellent jewelers
from around the world.
Membership includes: Topical Discussion
Channels, including
Bench Work, CAD-CAM, Stone Setting, and many
more. You may buy, sell
and trade on the
Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
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<=> <=> Thank You for
We are on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at: http://www.BWSimon.com
A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is
located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to
our site, adding additional useful information
for bench jewelers.
<=> <=> SUBSCRIPTION
INFORMATION <=> <=>
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Information provided in this document is
provided As Is without warranty of any kind,
either expressed or implied. This publication
is designed to provide accurate and
authoritative information concerning the
subject matter covered. It is provided with
the understanding that the author or publisher
is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting,
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the services of a competent professional person
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Copyrighted, 2006, BENCH MEDIA.
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