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Here is your next issue of E-BENCH.
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The E-Mail Newsletter
for Bench Jewelers
April 2006
Volume 7 Issue 04 circulation over 4,100
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
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<=> <=> <=> TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
From Alan Revere
A FILE-SAFE PLAN:
Modifying Files for Working Near Stones
Most flat and square files—both large hand
files and small needle files—have
cutting
surfaces on all four sides and
edges. The
sharp edges are great if you want to
carve a 90
degree groove into a piece of metal,
but then
can be problematic for certain
applications,
such as finishing a bezel
setting. If you want
to clean up the top of a setting, a
file with
sharp cutting surfaces and edges all
around
will put the stone in danger. However, with a
little effort, you can modify a file
that will
allow you to play it safe.
First, prepare a safe surface on the one side
of a fine-cut (#4 or #6) square
needle file.
(Note: You can also use the following steps to
modify barrette needle files, which
are great
for finishing prongs.) To do this, carefully
lay one side of the file against the
spinning
wheel of a bench grinder and draw it
across,
removing the abrasive cuts on that
side of the
file. Repeat until the cuts are completely
removed.
After rough grinding, take the file to an oiled
sharpening stone—the kind you use to
sharpen
gravers, drill bits, blades,
etc. Hold the
file flat against the stone and rub
it back and
forth to smooth the new surface and
remove
marks left by grinding. When the surface is
smooth, knock the cuts off the edges
on both
sides of the newly cleaned surface.
With all remnants of the original cuts removed,
use progressively finer grits of
abrasive paper
to bring the surface and adjacent
edges to a
polish. Begin with 220 grit paper held against
a flat surface. Proceed to 320, 400 and 600
grit. Finish up with 4/0 polishing paper. The
file should shine on one side.
And with that you have a file that is safe
for finishing bezels and prongs. Keeping in
mind that all stones can be damaged
by
abrasion, place the safe surface very
lightly
against the stone and file the
setting to
perfection.
This tip is from 101 Bench Tips for Jewelers
written by Alan Revere and published
by
MJSA/AJM Press.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
There is one quality that one must possess to win, and that is definiteness of purpose, the knowledge of what one wants, and a burning desire to possess it.
Napoleon Hill
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The
Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources. Open to the public
Free of
Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical
data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as
well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual
visitor and the
professional, also host the popular
Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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<=> <=> <=> COLORED STONES <=> <=> <=>
Learn all about handling colored stones from
gemstone cutter
ALEXANDRITE
Alexandrite is the color-change variety of the mineral chrysoberyl. Generally, the change is from some shade of bluish-green or olive-green in daylight to some shade of purplish-red or brownish-red in incandescent light. The primary basis to the value of this very expensive stone is the quality of the color change. Most stones (not all) available today are from
although there are some occasional fine stones from there and from
Currently, fine stones in the 1-2 carat range can be found at $2,000 to $6,000 per carat, and fine stones in the 3-5 carat range are seen in the $5,000 to $8,000/c range. Extra fine stones are much higher, up to $14,000 per carat and that is often for poorly cut goods! The weight loss suffered when cutting to proper proportions and angles is usually considered cost prohibitive.
Alexandrite is quite hard, 8.5 on the Mohs scale, and exhibits excellent toughness. While most Brazilian material is very clean stones from other locations often have many characteristic inclusions. While that is a great help in proving the stone is natural, some of these inclusions can split or even explode on application of heat. Considering the high cost of replacement, it is a wise idea to remove an alexandrite from the setting for all but the slightest of torch work. The pickle should cause no problems and the ultrasonic also should not cause any problems but avoid sudden heat changes in a hot ultrasonic.
True synthetic alexandrite is available. In gemological terms, the word synthetic means that the material has all the chemical and physical attributes of the natural material. It is not an imitation or simulant; it IS the same as the natural material except that it is produced in a laboratory as opposed to having been dug out of the ground. Many dealers and jewelers prefer to use the term laboratory grown or cultured because they feel the term synthetic is confused with cheap by the public. In reality, there are some very inexpensive synthetics and there are some rather expensive luxury synthetics, and they all fill a certain demand in the marketplace.
True synthetic alexandrite is one of the more costly synthetics and the degree of color change is dependant on the skill of the cutter and the amount of waste the cutter finds acceptable. This all conspires to drive the price upwards, and good synthetic alexandrite currently trades at wholesale at about $90 per carat to over $200 per carat, depending on size. Independent cutters often charge less and the cutting is better, as well.
Because most synthetic alexandrite is nearly flawless, the material is exceptionally durable and heat resistant. Prolonged direct torch heat is to be avoided, but the pickle and ultrasonic are problem free.
You can contact
wayne_emery@msn.com
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Visualization is daydreaming with a purpose.
Bo Bennett
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
For over 60 years,
jewelry supplier, has provided quality products, unsurpassed selection and legendary service to help professional jewelers
succeed.
* Gems & Findings division offers finished jewelry, findings and gemstones
* Display & Packaging division offers innovative display and packaging
* Tools division offers equipment and supplies
Call us at 1-800-545-6566 or visit us at www.riogrande.com.
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2006 Bench
Jewelers Passion
Award Design
Contest Winners
The 2006 Passion Awards winners were announced at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo in
winners of the contest listed by
category.
Jewelers Choice Award
David E. Lee
CAD Rendering, Mens Jewelry
Dave Delaria Jr.
Deric Metzger
CAD Rendering, Ladies Jewelry
Kim Fox
Greg Stopka
CAD Rendering, Ladies Ring
Tom McLaughlin
Joel McFadden
CAD Rendering, Jewelry Suite
Timothy W. Lulloff
Finished Jewelry, Mens Jewelry
Ward Stogdill
Wes Roth
Finished Jewelry, Ladies Jewelry
David E. Lee
Ross Arterberry
Award of Merit
Darold Lerch
Dave Delaria Jr
Joseph Bonasso
Michael Goralski
Michael Ponthieux
Finished Jewelry, Ladies Ring
Michael Ponthieux
Ward Stogdill
Award of Merit
Dawn Muscio
Joel Mc Fadden
Nanz Aalund
Tom McLaughlin
Yevgeny Ponomaryov
Holly Scott
Finished Jewelry, Jewelry Suite
Nina Basharova
Jeremy Fenton
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Your attitude, not your aptitude, will determine your altitude.
Zig Ziglar
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Jewelry Dealers
World Trade Network
http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com
<=> Bench Jeweler
Discussion Channel <=>
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the
ongoing discussions, or just read and
take in
all the advice from many excellent
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from around the world.
Membership includes: Topical Discussion
Channels, including
Bench Work, CAD-CAM, Stone Setting, and many
more. You may buy, sell and trade on the
Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips that make working with Platinum or
working at the bench in general
easier-
from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
Making a Better Bench Pin:
THE STORAGE AREA
Want a handy receptacle for storing beeswax or small parts? Using a bur, cut into your benchpin a 1.5 inch by 1 inch indentation that measures about 3 millimeters deep. You now have a convenient place to temporarily store stones and other small items.
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Platinum Guild International and Bench Media Present – Bench
Seminars
Master Level Seminars presented by two of the Industrys Foremost Seminar Leaders. Seminars include: Platinum Bench Techniques, Advanced Fabrication, Advanced Stone Setting, and Bench Tips & Other Tricks.
Seminar Leaders
will present these seminars in
28th,
Angeles) August 25th,
22nd, and
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
It takes 20 years to build a reputation and five minutes to ruin it. If you think about that, you will do things differently.
Warren Buffett
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Southeastern Findings
Southeastern Findings has been a leader in the
wholesale jewelry business for the
past 27
years servicing the Independent
Jeweler. We
are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding
Bands, Jewelry
Boxes, Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much
More.
Call us Today at 1-800-282-8285 or
visit us on
the World Wide Web www.sefindings.com
Namano /
Southeastern Findings
Your Home for
Southern Hospitality
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<=> <=> <=> Gemz from Gerry <=> <=> <=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
by Gerald N. Lewy
Protecting the culet is one of the most basic and most overlooked areas of setting any size of stone. As this part of the diamond is one of the most vulnerable areas, it can chip easily. So how do we adjust for this potential calamity on claw settings? I always use #009 round burs, nothing too large, but small enough to free the culet from touching any metal. I will literally dig down to the depth the ball. I will also visualize the location of the intended culet and ask myself: Is the hole well positioned? Will it free the culet? Will the hole cut interfere with the security of the adjoining claws?
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Goals are new, forward-moving objectives. They magnetize you towards them.
Mark Victor Hansen
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BENCH
VISION
A Video Magazine for
Bench Jewelers on DVD
Each quarterly issue contains 1 hour of video
training including: Stone Setting,
Jewelry
Repair, and Custom Jewelry
Manufacturing. Plus
Bench Tips, Bench Visits, and New Product
Reviews.
Only $95 per year in the
and Only $125 per year for oversea
delivery.
www.BWSimon.com/BenchVision
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<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY
FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
RESPIRATORS
If you have to use a respirator there is something seriously wrong.
If you think you need a respirator to do something red flags should be waving in front of your eyes and alarm bells ringing in your mind. If you have to use a respirator there is something really wrong with your ventilation system and working processes. And when you take it off, whatever it was you are afraid of will still be there, an invisible dust (such as cristabolite investment) on all surfaces that merely walking past later will stir up into the air so you can breathe it in.
The same thing applies to chemicals and metal fumes (which deposit as an extremely fine dust). If you are using a respirator in your normal working space what you are admitting is that you desperately need a proper ventilation system. A respirator should be a tool of last resort, a backup, an emergency thing. And if you are using one make sure it is correct for your face and the chemicals and fumes you are protecting yourself from. Talk to your safety supply company representative, or better still several of them. Rossol and McCann have good sections on which respirators serve for which purposes and there is a ton of information on the internet on the subject.
Keep your respirator in a plastic bag when not in use to help keep the filters absorption in good shape. Change the filters by their expiration dates or more frequently if used a lot. Half face respirators serve for some purposes. I personally like Israeli gas masks for some things: they are built for guys with beards.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Look at life through the windshield, not the rear-view mirror.
Byrd Baggett
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JewelersTraining.com
JewelersTraining.com is the first and finest On
Demand Jewelry Video Training Website.
JewelersTraining.com is designed by Jewelers
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Visit often, as we will be making changes to
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Information provided in this document is
provided As Is without warranty of
any kind,
either expressed or implied. This publication
is designed to provide accurate and
authoritative information concerning
the
subject matter covered. It is provided with
the understanding that the author or
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Copyrighted, 2006, BENCH MEDIA.
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BENCH MEDIA
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