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<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=> The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
September 2004 Volume 5 Issue 09 circulation over 3,200
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers and Anyone Else That Is Interested.
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E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication BENCH MEDIA is a B W Simon Company Bradney W Simon – Publisher Daniel R. Spirer - Proofreader daniel@spirerjewelers.com
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<=> <=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=> <=> <=>
REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS Tips for Jewelers, Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a new technique, or brush up on basic skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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The Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online Resources. Open to the
public
Free of Charge.
A substantial library of articles, publications, reports, and technical data on gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a sizable collection of art and jewelry galleries, for both the casual visitor and the professional, also host the popular Orchid online forums for jewelers.
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<=> <=> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
THE ADVANTAGES OF NAIL FILES
Here is the greatest deal for bench jewelers. Go out and get a sapphire nail file off the rack in the cosmetics section of your neighborhood supermarket. For around a dollar, these incredibly handy little files can really save the day—and shorten long nights at the bench.
With a Mohs hardness of 9, these ultra-thin and flat files cut all materials (except the hardest gems), and they can be easily modified by grinding to a desired shape. You need a small, thin file to get into a tight slot, or to clean up a casting, or to true up a gallery? Just start with a sapphire nail file and, if it is too big, trim it down to meet your needs. You can easily reshape it on a regular grinding wheel, so long as you keep it wet and cool.
Or maybe you just cut a ring to size it down, but now the ends don’t meet flush? No problem; just slip a nail file into the seam. After a few pulls and pushes, the two faces are flat and ready to be soldered.
Sapphire files leave a very interesting, although somewhat delicate, texture: Just rub the flat side of the file against a surface in circular patterns. When you think about it, that dollar may be one of the best investments you ever made—and, on top of everything, you can even use it on your nails!
This Tip is from the forthcoming book "101 Bench Tips for Jewelers" written by Alan Revere and published by MJSA/AJM Press.
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To accomplish great things, we must not only act, but also dream. Not only plan, but believe. Anatole France
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<=> <=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=> <=> <=> One Bite at a Time A Bench Jeweler’s Guide to Organizing Their Work Part 4 of 4
Many jeweler’s productivity rate is low not because they don’t work hard but because they don’t work efficiently. Once the job envelopes are sorted and scheduled in the order they are to be worked on, the manner in which you perform the work must be organized. Remember: WORK SMARTER, NOT HARDER. The most efficient method to planning your work is the same way you eat an elephant - One Bite at a Time.
19th century author and business consultant Samuel Smiles said “The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.”
To accomplish more in your day, do one thing (one bite) at a time and do it until you have finished. Then move on to the second thing you need to do and do it until it is finished, then move on to the third.
To many bench jewelers this means taking one piece of jewelry and finishing it, then taking a second, etc. However if you look at what work you are doing, you are actually doing several things (eating the whole elephant) and then repeating those same steps again. For example, you are repairing several chains. You get one chain ready and light your torch and solder it. Then you turn your torch off to get the next one ready, light your torch and solder it. Then you turn your torch off to get the next one ready, light your torch and solder it. Then you turn your torch off to get the next one ready, light your torch and solder it. Then you turn your torch off to get the next one ready, light your torch and solder it. Do you see how much time is wasted re-lighting the torch? Or in sizing rings if you size one ring you measure, saw, bend, solder, file, hammer, sand, polish, and clean. Then you repeat all of the steps on each ring you size.
Many hours per week are wasted using one tool for one job, setting it down, and using another tool, only to return to the first tool to use it on another job. Like picking up the torch, lighting it, and soldering one item. Then turning the torch off, and setting it back down, only to pick the torch back up a few minutes later re-light it in order to solder a second item. Then turning the torch off again and setting it back down. Then going to a third job, which requires picking up the torch and re-lighting it, to solder this third item. Then turning the torch off, and setting it back down, repeatedly all day long.
In planning your work, you need to think of the one thing that you are doing concerning the work you are doing and not the one piece of jewelry. Think through each group of jobs that you have to do, and break your work down. First, break the project into steps. Then, break those steps into activities And finally, schedule those activities For sizing rings down, you would break the project down into 3 steps, which consist of removing the amount of metal necessary, soldering the shank closed, and cleaning up the shank. Each of those steps could then be broken down further into activities. For example the first step of removing the amount of metal consists of 4 activities; measuring the amount of metal, marking the shank, sawing the shank, and bending the shank closed. Scheduling each activity together for each ring you need to size down will allow you to work at maximum productivity.
By organizing the work in the shop so that similar items that need soldering can be soldered at the same time, you use your time most efficiently. You only light the torch once, accomplish your soldering tasks and then move on to another tool
You can group many jobs in the shop together in this manner. Although the example of sizing rings is used, you can do the same on many repairs such as soldering chains, re-tipping prongs, soldering charms, etc.
However, some jobs need to be accomplished by themselves. For example, in stone setting, a precise seat must be cut for each stone. Because of slight variances between stones, each stone should have its seat cut and set individually. Additionally you do not want to mix-up the stones and set the wrong stone in the mounting. However, you can group these jobs together in areas such as polishing and cleaning.
In planning your work for the day, you need to focus on one step or ‘bite’ of work. Think of the word FOCUS as an acronym.
FOCUS F – Follow O – One C – Course U – Until S – Successful
If you focus your attention and Follow One Course of action Until you have Successfully completed it before you move on to the next activity, you will accomplish more during your day. When you work in this manner you eliminate wasted time and maximize productivity without sacrificing quality.
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But one thing I do: Forgetting what is behind and straining toward what is ahead, I press on toward the goal. Philippians 3: 13
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<=> <=> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <=> <=>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
KEEPING SEAMS FOR SHOWING IN PLATINUM By Jim Stewart
Some platinum rings are lightly rhodium plated and when you weld, the rhodium is absorbed into the joint and causes discoloration. I recommend you emery off the rhodium plating on the shank before you weld. Also, when sizing down, cut a small piece from the ring sizing stock because it will be the same metal as the ring. Hammer thin and make sure the face of your hammer is clean. Use this thin piece as FILLER MATERIAL when welding your platinum ring.
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Don’t put yourself down. Always remember that there are things that you can do that others cannot. Bunso
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New from MJSA/AJM Press The AJM Guide to Lost-Wax Casting
Learn from the masters how to achieve smooth, porosity-free castings! The AJM Guide to Lost- Wax Casting offers an abundance of best practices, handy tips, and troubleshooting techniques. How to create trouble-free master models to proper breakout procedures.
Contributing experts include: Charles Lewton-Brain, Jurgen J. Maerz, Gregg Todd, Michael Bondanza, and many more.
For sample chapters and more information, go to http://www.ajm-magazine.com/pub_press.php
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips that working with Platinum or working at the bench in general - easier from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ, Director of Technical Education for Platinum Guild International http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
Take a separating disc that is in a mandrel and insert it into a flex-shaft. Using a fairly high speed score a second separating disc in four places. Mount the modified disk on a mandrel and use it as you would use a lapping wheel. The advantage of this modification is that you can see right through the rotating disc, which makes it much easier to work.
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It is one of the most beautiful compensations of this life, that no man can sincerely try to help another without helping himself. Ralph Waldo Emerson
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BENCH ROM The Multi-Media Magazine for Bench Jewelers
BENCH ROM is an affordable method to learn new skills and develop your career. Discover New Techniques Learn New Tips to Improve Your Work See New Products and Technologies Demonstrated All right from your home or shop without having to travel to a seminar or trade show.
“Bench Rom is great,” says jeweler Bill Scores “It’s like being in the shop of a Master Jeweler and watching over his shoulder.”
Log onto www.BWSimon.com/BenchRom for more information or to subscribe
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<=> <=> <=> FAVORITE TIPS <=> <=> <=>
Line the bottom of your lap tray with a piece of leather, mat board, or cloth. This will protect stones from the metal bottom if dropped into the tray.
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The difference in one size is 1/10 of an inch or 2.54 millimeters. For simplicity 2.5 millimeters is used in actual practice. If a ring is to be sized up or down one size 2.5 mm is either added or removed from the shank.
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When retipping be certain to completely coat the diamond with boric acid. Diamonds burn at a temperature around 1560 degrees Fahrenheit. This is near the temperature at which solder melts. In order to burn stones you need two things, heat AND OXYGEN. The glassy coating of boric acid seals out oxygen allowing you to heat above this temperature without burning the diamond.
The lowest Platinum solder (1000) melts at over 1800 degrees Fahrenheit. PLATINUM SOLDERS SHOULD NEVER BE USED TO RETIP DIRECTLY ON DIAMONDS.
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Have two or three gravers of the size you use most often. If one is dull, use another one. When all are dull, sharpen them at the same time. Sharpening three gravers at the same time takes less time than sharpening one graver three separate times. Also if a tip breaks or dulls in the middle of a job, you can finish the job and sharpen when finished. This saves time from having to keep stopping to sharpen a graver.
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Attach small tools used often, such as a chuck key, to a retractable key chain. Mount the case to the side of your bench or under the bench top. The tool will always be in easy reach and when you are finished using it, let go and the tool will put itself away.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
If we did all the things we were capable of doing we would literally astound ourselves. Thomas Edison
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Run Your Shop Without It Running You A Practical Guide To Efficient Shop Management
With over one hundred and fifty pages of information, illustrations, and worksheets, this is the most comprehensive book on Shop Management available today.
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“For too many years, Simon says, jewelry store owners have believed the fallacy the shop can’t be a profit center. He destroys that notion step-by-step with a practical book that shows owners and shop mangers the keys to profitability.” Professional Jeweler Magazine
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<=> <=> <=> GERRY’S GEMZ <=> <=> <=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html by Gerald N. Lewy
Should You Use Copper, Steel, or Brass Stone Pusher?
The jury is still out on this topic, but here are my reasons of which and when each ‘pusher’ should be used. Let’s discuss them individually.
I use copper when I am gypsy setting delicate stones such as emeralds or other semi-precious stones. Copper is softer and will not mar the gold around the girdle as much as the harder brass might.
Brass is a harder metal, but it’s still softer than steel. I use a brass pusher when setting in platinum. I would rub an emery paper over its tip to prevent slippage. Brass gives me better pushing results than the softer copper.
Steel is the hardest metal to use as a stone pusher. The tip or edges of the pusher can chip or scratch the stone, and the serrated edge of the pusher will leave deep indentations in the metal.
I cannot overstate the danger in using steel in place of the softer copper or brass. However copper and brass do not have the strength necessary for applying heavy downward pressure for thicker and wider engagement ring claws. With a steel pusher no loss of pressure will be encountered and direct and intentional pressure will be achieved.
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Life consists not in holding good cards, but in playing those you hold well. Josh Billings
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SIMON SEZ SEMINARS
Bradney W. Simon is a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler with over 26 years experience on the bench. He is the Editor and Publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM, and is an accomplished platform speaker, providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
Topics include: Shop Management Bench Tips Jewelry Demonstrations
For information on having him speak for your organization, log onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars
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<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
Hygiene: Wash Your Hands
We use our hands so much in the jewelry shop that they get exposed to all kinds of chemicals, metals and dusts; quite apart from the physical stresses on them. It is very important to develop a hand washing habit to reduce contamination of yourself (mouth touching, eating etc.). Regular hand washing and washing them thoroughly before leaving as part of your 'shutting down the shop' ritual can help reduce your overall exposure significantly. Use a mild soap. Many people also use hand lotions of various kinds after rinsing.
Some people use a barrier cream before starting the day in the shop. It does however seem to wear off during the day. There is also some slight concern that an oily barrier cream can sometimes form a paste with materials that actually keeps the skin exposed longer than if one were not to use one.
For more information on Workshop safety from Charles Lewton-Brian log onto: http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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<=> <=> Thank You for Reading <=> <=>
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Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided with the understanding that the author or publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be sought.
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Copyrighted, 2004, BENCH MEDIA. All rights reserved.
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