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Here is your next issue of E-BENCH. Thanks for subscribing.
<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=> The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
June 2003
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers and Anyone Else That Is Interested.
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E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication BENCH MEDIA is a B W Simon Company Bradney W Simon – Publisher Daniel Spirer - Proofreader
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<=> <=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=> <=> <=>
REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS Tips for Jewelers, Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a new technique, or brush up on basic skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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<=> <=> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
Finding the Right Graver By Alan Revere
Most jewelers and setters have a pile of loose gravers in a box or on their bench top. Finding the right one can be time consuming and frustrating. Make life easier on yourself by identifying the graver on the end of the handle. First, use a slide caliper to measure the width of each graver (I find this more useful than relying on the inconsistent and arbitrary numbering system gravers come with.) Write the size on the handle using a permanent marker. Below the size, draw the shape; a "V" for anglette gravers, "W" for Florentine, "U" for round, etc. and then make a rack for your gravers. You can drill a number of holes in a piece of wood or the edge of your bench, and stick the gravers in with the handle sticking out, easily identified. Or make a wire mesh stand for your gravers by folding up a section of heavy wire mesh into a rack or by fitting a piece of this mesh into your drawer (if it is deep enough). When you have time, go over each marking on the handles with a small round bur, cutting into the wood and leaving deep lines that will outlast a permanent marker. By grouping all the round gravers, flat gravers, etc. in the rack and according to size, it will be a snap to find that 1.3 mm flat graver when you need it, as well as all the others.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Believe in yourself. You gain strength, courage, and confidence by every experience in which you stop to look fear in the face … You must do that which you think you cannot do. Eleanor Roosevelt
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The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online Resources. Open to the
public
Free of Charge.
A substantial library of articles, publications, reports, and technical data on gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a sizable collection of art and jewelry galleries, for both the casual visitor and the professional, also host the popular Orchid online forums for jewelers.
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<=> <=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=> <=> <=> Back To Basics- SAWING By BRADNEY W. SIMON CMBJ
When legendary coach Vince Lombardi took over the Green Bay Packers, he instituted training in the basics. At the first meeting with the players he held a football up in his hand and said “Gentlemen this is a football.” This was to a group of professional football players! They had played football most of their lives. If anybody knew what a football looked like it was them. However, Coach Lombardi left nothing to chance. To him, the team that won was the team that performed the basics of football the best. The team that blocked better, ran the ball better, and tackled better than the other team, usually won. His Packers won the first two Super Bowls. In all sports, professional athletes practice many of the same drills they learned in youth leagues as a child. They know practicing basic skills will allow them to perform better at their level.
Working on jewelry, whether repairing or creating a new piece, is no different. A bench jeweler must perform basic skills with precision in order to create excellent work. Skills such as sawing, filing, soldering, and polishing need to be mastered in order to develop ones’ career as a jeweler. Over the next few months I will be presenting a few of these basic skills in a series called back to basics. For the apprentice jeweler, these articles will lay the foundation upon which the skills of the trade can be built. For the rest, these articles will serve as an important review. At the jeweler’s bench, even the most complicated task is a compilation of basic skills performed with precision and accuracy. Because of this, it is advantageous for all jewelers, even the most advanced, to review and practice the basics. This month we will cover the basic skill of sawing.
The jeweler’s saw is one of the most widely used tools at the jeweler’s bench. In the hands of a skilled artisan, a saw can produce the most intricate patterns or accurate straight lines. It can also be used as a file in small areas inaccessible by other tools. It is important for a bench jeweler to master the skills of sawing to perform quality workmanship. These skills are not difficult however to achieve precision, practice of correct mechanics is required.
To begin cutting, place the metal on the bench pin. Hold it firmly; if the metal slips the blade will break. Rest the saw blade against the metal’s edge and gently draw the blade downward. The blade should begin to cut. If it does not check the blade, as it may be the wrong size for the metal being cut or it may be installed upside down or backwards. There should be at least two teeth in contact with the metal at all times during the stroke, and the teeth should point down towards the handle, cutting on the down stroke. If the teeth point upwards, remove the blade and turn it around.
Continue with a slow steady up and down rhythm using the entire length of the blade. This will allow you to saw faster and more accurately. Short choppy strokes result in uneven sawing and will prematurely wear out that section of the blade, causing it to break. On the downward stroke, a natural forward movement provides sufficient pressure on the blade. Too little pressure allows the teeth to simply scrape the metal, which is ineffective. Excessive forward or downward pressure will cause the blade to break.
Release the forward pressure on the upward return stroke. It only repositions the blade for the next downward cutting stroke. Dragging the teeth on the up stroke can cause the blade to misshape and the teeth to wear unevenly.
Saw in front of the body and in a forward direction. Some jewelers keep the saw in one forward position and move the metal into the saw. Others hold the metal steady and move the saw in the desired direction. Still others move both the metal and saw as necessary. With a little practice, you will develop the most natural method for you.
Sawing is most efficient when remaining relaxed while sawing. Tensing muscles in the hand, arm or shoulders cause fatigue and cramping. In addition, unsatisfactory sawing will result. The arm and shoulder should be loose and the hand remaining relaxed. If necessary, adjust your chair or body position in order to be comfortable and relaxed while sawing.
Always saw on the waste side of the line. Cut as close to the line as possible without cutting into it. It is always better to leave too much metal, which you can remove later, than to cut away too much metal. With experience, you will be able to cut right along the line with no additional clean up needed when finished.
As you saw, blow away metal filings that accumulate. Then the cutting line remains visible for more accurate cutting. Always pull the lap tray out beneath the bench pin. This will catch the filings from sawing. Collect them and send them to a refiner for recovery.
To saw a straight line, tilt the saw forward slightly. Then the cut already made will help guide the blade, and it is easier to sight the straight line along the blade.
To saw curves, keep the blade perpendicular to the metal. Tilting the saw forward while rounding a curve will pinch the blade causing it to break prematurely.
To make a sharp turn, continue the same up and down rhythm without any forward pressure. Then slowly rotate the metal around the moving blade. On each downward stroke, make a slight sideways cut until you reach the new direction.
Saw blades do wear out. When teeth are dulled to the point where extra force must be used in cutting, it is best to replace the blade. Extra pressure decreases control; therefore, nothing is gained by this economy.
Often saw blades break before they wear out, a wasteful situation. This can be avoided or at least minimized with proper sawing procedures. The two main reasons for blades breaking are too much force used while sawing, and pinching the blade from twisting either the metal or the saw frame.
DO NOT throw broken or worn out blades away. Particles of gold become lodged in the teeth during use. Place all old saw blades in the container with the used polishing machine filters to be refined. A good refiner can reclaim this gold.
An excellent practice exercise is to cut out pennies. Drill a hole in the background area and thread the saw blade through. Cut around the profile of Lincoln. Then saw around the inside of the edge of the coin, forming a frame around Lincoln’s head. Then examine your work with a loupe or microscope to see areas for improvement. IS the frame around the coin even and sawed smoothly? Is all of the background cut away or are there areas left around Lincoln’s head? Is the nose or chin cut off? If you find areas needing improvement, try the exercise again and watch while sawing in those areas to see where you can improve. Taking a few minutes to saw one penny a day and working to improve each coin you saw will help you master this aspect of working at the jeweler’s bench in a short period of time.
Precise sawing is important. It saves both metal and time. When you perform accurate sawing, very little, if any, filing is needed to clean up your saw cuts. Following these basic procedures and with a little practice, one can easily master the art of using the jeweler’s saw.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Plan for the future, because that is where you are going to spend the rest of your life. Mark Twain
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<=> <=> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <=> <=>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
CHAIN REPAIR by Jim Stewart
Take time to clean the chain because of the oils and hairspray that get inside the hollow links. You may have to clean the chain using a tablespoon of Red Devil Lye to a few cups of water at 180F. You will need ventilation while doing this.
You can cut through one link on both sides using an ultra thin cutoff disc or you can lay the gold chain down on a flat piece of copper and cut the links with an X-ACTO knife. It is less costly to replace an X-ACTO blade than a flush side cutting pliers. Now weave links together and solder using paste solder. Paste solder is not necessary but it is a little faster.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Do nothing from selfishness or empty conceit, but with humility of mind let each of you regard one another as more important than himself; do not merely look out for your own personal interest, but also for the interest of others. Philippians 2: 3-4
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
At the Bench: New Book from MJSA/AJM Press
Featuring more than 200 full-color photographs, this essential bench resource offers step-by- step guides to common—and not so common—repair and fabrication techniques for gold and silver jewelry. It also offers basic bench preparation and practices (including tips for organizing tools and prioritizing work flow), a guide to taking in repairs, and step-by-step projects ranging from resizing two-tone rings to setting fancy shapes, from building a bracelet hinge to basic chasing and repoussé. Published by MJSA/AJM Press, a division of Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America.
Visit http://www.ajm-magazine.com/atb/index.htm for a preview.
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ, Director of Technical Education for Platinum Guild International http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
SIZING A PLATINUM/COBALT (Pt/Co) RING
Pt/Co is slightly magnetic and you can easily detect it at the bench with a magnet.
Sizing a Platinum ring is normally done with the welding method as long as there are no stones nearby. The exception is Pt/Co, as cobalt oxidizes. To size a Pt/Co ring, 1700 seamless solder is recommended.
Roll the solder paper-thin, wedge it into a very well fitting seam and heat. The seam should be very, very thin. When welded with a torch, Pt/Co may oxidize slightly. This can be removed by firecoating the object after the initial welding and re-heating it to about 1000 F. or by pickling in a 10% solution of nitric acid. The oxidation will not reappear during wear. Next, use a file to remove excess solder, and burnish the seam with a Tungsten burnisher. This should remove all traces of the seam. Now polish and clean the ring. With its good hardness, Pt/Co takes on a great polish.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
The credit belongs to those people who are actually in the arena … who know the great enthusiasms, the great devotions to a worthy cause; who at best, know the triumph of high achievement; and who, at worst, fail while daring greatly … so that their place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory nor defeat. Theodore Roosevelt
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
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Please send a blank email to mailto:wireworker@royal-responder.com
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<=> <=> <=> FAVORITE TIPS <=> <=> <=>
A flat graver can be used to burnish a
bezel
when setting. Place the graver point on the
bezel as you would if cutting. However, pull
backwards on the graver to burnish the
metal,
rather than pushing forward on it.
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Before placing in the job
envelope, put chains
in small zip-lock bag with
their catches
sticking out of the
top. When removing, hold
chain by clasp and lift out
of the bag. Do not
take the open bag and dump
it out. This will
keep the chain from
tangling
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When channel setting diamonds, color
the inside
of the channel with a black felt tip
marker
before setting. The diamonds will stand out
against this background making it
easier to
keep the spacing uniform. When finished
setting, dip the jewelry in alcohol to
remove
the ink.
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Once a chain is
reassembled, it is often
difficult to find the break
in the chain to
solder. To help you find the break, mark the
broken links with a felt
tip marker before
assembly.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Line the bottom of your lap tray with a
piece
of leather, mat board, or cloth. This will
protect stones from the metal bottom if
dropped
into the tray.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Measure the thickness and width of the
ring
shank and record these measurements on
the job
envelope before you begin sizing a
ring.
Having these measurements may save you
from
doing a half-shank later if the
customer
complains that you thinned the shank
too much
during sizing.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Use snap-on sanding disk
with a fine grit to
clean up prong tips after
re-tipping. Place
the snap-on sanding disk
backwards (emery side
towards your flex-shaft
handpiece). This makes
them easier to control and
you can see your
progress as you sand.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
An organized bench WILL NOT LET YOU DO
BETTER
WORK!
It will however let you work more
efficiently.
Every minute looking for a tool to use
is 60
seconds spent not working.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
When accumulating scrap always keep in
mind
this thought:
WHEN IN DOUBT, DO NOT THROW IT OUT.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Drill a 3/8” hole in the
center of your muslin
buff wheels. Then place on the tapered spindle
of your polishing
motor. This larger hole will
allow the wheel to move up
further on the
tapered spindle. You can then place an inside
ring buff on the remaining
tapered spindle.
You can then use both the
inside ring buff and
muslin buff wheel with out
stopping the motor
and changing the buffs.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Watch your thoughts, for they become words. Choose your words, for they become actions. Understand your actions, for they become habits. Study your habits, for they will become your character. Develop your character, for it becomes your destiny. Anonymous
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo
Coming April 23 - 25 2004 to Chicago IL
Workshops <> Seminars <> Demonstrations Networking Opportunities <> Exhibitor Show
Everything during this Educational Conference and Suppliers Expo - including the banquet speakers - will be directed toward the bench jeweler.
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo presented by Bench Media publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM For exhibitor information e-mail Tabetha Jordan
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<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips
From Charles Lewton-Brian
BURNS
Burns are a common hazard in the jewelry shop. All goldsmiths get small burns now and then and sometimes larger burns occur as well. Burns were the most common small injury reported in the Orchid list survey (next to small cuts). Don't use oils or greasy ointments to treat a burn first. The best treatment is to freeze a burn as soon as possible. Burn damage keeps on going for some time after the cause of the burn is removed and if you freeze it fast enough and keep it cold for a while you can often limit the damage considerably. While I still like ice for the small and medium sized burns jewelers get many EMS units that now use materials like Water-Jel, a water based gel that carries away heat rapidly and so stops the burn from continuing deeper and yet does not cause a hypothermia hazard for the burn victim.
Burns are avoidable if safety precautions are taken. If you are working with fire, torches, flammable materials, or hot liquids then you must set up your workspace to avoid an accident. If an accident does happen, then be prepared so that it is not any worse than it need be.
Alcohol fires are reported by almost all jewelers I know who use boric acid and alcohol as a fire scale retardant. I recommend other ways of applying the material, such as dipping in a simmering water based solution. Also using powdered boric acid applied to the warmed object to coat it to avoid the alcohol/fire hazard.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto: http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
There are precious few Einsteins among us. Most brilliance arises from ordinary people working together in extraordinary ways. Roger Von Oech
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<=> <=> Thank You for Reading <=> <=>
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