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<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
April 2003
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<> <> <> <> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <> <> <> <>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for
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E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication BENCH MEDIA is a B W Simon Company Bradney W Simon – Publisher
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <>
REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS Tips for Jewelers, Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a new technique, or brush up on basic skills. STEWART'S BENCH TIPS Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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BENCH ROM The Multi-Media Magazine for Bench Jewelers
BENCH ROM is an affordable alternative to learning new skills and developing your career. Discover New Techniques Learn New Tips to Improve Your Work See New Products and Technologies Demonstrated All right from your home or shop without having to travel to a seminar or trade show. “Bench Rom is great,” says jeweler Bill Scores “It’s like being in the shop of a Master Jeweler and watching over his shoulder.”
Subscribe to BENCH ROM by May 31st and you will receive: Favorite Tips CD ROM FREE a $34.95 value
Log onto www.BWSimon.com/BenchRom for more information or to subscribe
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<> <> <> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <> <> <> <>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
FINDING THE RIGHT SANDING STICK
After wrapping abrasive paper around a paint stick or piece of wooden molding, use a permanent marker to put dots on both ends of the wood to indicate the grit; oo for 220 paper, ooo for 320 paper oooo for 400.
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<> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
View all customers as beautiful flower gardens that must be cultivated and watered frequently … they’re worth it.
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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/
<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <>
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many Excellent Jewelers from around the world.
Membership includes: Topical Discussion Channels, including Bench Work, CAD-CAM, Stone Setting, and many more. You may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
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<> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <> Set 'Em Straight
Over the past decade, channel setting has grown in popularity. Setting small diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and even emeralds into channels has become commonplace in most shops. Hardly a week goes by without some form of repair being preformed on a channel set piece. The following tips will hopefully make this work a little easier.
When channel setting it is of utmost importance to cut a precise seat. If the stone fits loosely in the seat it will be difficult to tighten and problems will develop during the setting process.
When channel setting it is best to intentionally cut the seat too small. Then, gradually enlarge the seat to fit the stone. This will help keep you from over cutting too large a seat.
A closed back channel is most secure. If an open back channel is used, make certain there are support bars between the channel walls or support circles under the stones. Without these the walls of an open backed channel can spread apart over time causing the stones to come loose or fall out.
Before setting, color the inside of the channel with a felt tip marker. With the dark color as a background it will be easier to see the diamonds and to keep their spacing even. When finished setting dip in alcohol to remove the ink.
When channel setting file the tops of the channel wall at a 30-degree angle. Then, hammer the channel wall at this angle and the metal will form down and out over the stones.
When channel setting always undercut the same side of the channel on each stone. Alternating the undercut side may cause the stones to set unevenly when finished. Before cutting the seats mark one of the walls of the channel with a felt tip maker. Then you will be certain to always undercut the same side of the channel. This is particularly important if you are interrupted while cutting the seats.
When setting a straight row channel set band, place the ring on a ring mandrel and tap the sidewall over the stones with a hammer handpiece on your flex-shaft. Rest the mandrel on your bench pin and slowly rotate it while hammering the channel edge down. This will help keep the channel wall even and smooth. Placing cellophane tape over the stones will hold them in place while hammering.
When channel setting square stones, a tapered square hole must be cut to accommodate the pavilion of the stone. This can be accomplished by first using a heart bur held perpendicular to the mounting to cut the four-corners. Then, use a small wheel bur to remove the metal between the corner cuts.
When setting stones into a curved channel undercut the wall on the outside of the curve. Then, secure the stones by hammering or bending the inside channel wall over the stones. Although some mounting designs will not allow you to set in this manner it is more efficient than trying to secure the stones with the metal from the outside wall. Remember, it is always easier to stretch metal than compress it. By hammering the inside curve you are stretching then metal outward over the stones rather than trying to compress the outside curve inward to secure the stones. In addition, pressing in on the stones to tighten them may force the stones together causing them to chip.
When channel setting stones in a channel that is next to, or circles a center crown you have no option but to under cut the channel on the center crown side. Then, carefully hammer the outside wall down to secure the stones.
If a channel is too wide for the stones you are setting tap down on the top of the channel wall without the stones in place. This will spread the metal closing the channel. Then, anneal the mounting to soften the channel wall before setting the stones.
To channel set stones in a solid plate first lay out the stones on the plate. Then cut a seat slightly smaller than the stones into the plate. Next, remove the metal from between the stones with a wheel bur forming the channel in the plate. Polish the inside of the channel and set the stones using normal channel setting procedures.
To tighten stones in a channel set band, use a pair of pliers with one 1/2 round jaw and one flat jaw. Place the 1/2 round jaw on the inside of the ring and squeeze down on the top of the channel with the flat jaw. Using the ½ round jaw on the inside will prevent nicking and marring the inside of the ring.
To smooth the channel walls on small channel set stones a roller can be made from an old milligram wheel. Carefully grind away the metal ridges that form the beads, leaving a smooth channel around the outside of the wheel. Then polish to a high shine. Place this modified wheel in its handle and roll it over the top of the channel wall in the same manner you would use to milligram an edge. The result is a smooth edge of metal burnished tight against the stones.
You can use a ring roller designed to enlarge rings to tighten stones in a channel set wedding band. Select a half-round die larger than the width of the band; making certain the die will contact the tops of the channel without hitting the stones. Apply gentle pressure and roll across the entire channel, compressing the metal down tight onto the stones. Then, remove the ring and check the stones. Repeat as necessary. DO NOT Over Tighten The Die Against The Ring. This process will leave the channel smooth and even.
To re-build the top of a worn channel, solder a thin strip of gold matching the color and karat of the jewelry to the top of the channel. Then, file to shape. An easy method to make the small strip for re-building a channel is to roll a piece of round wire through a rolling mill once or twice.
Before re-building a worn channel top, examine the mounting carefully. Often the sides of the channel are just as worn as the top. To only re-build the top will result in an unsatisfactory repair. Rather than soldering a strip to the top, you may need to solder an "L" shaped piece of gold to the channel. Sometimes the only remedy is to replace the channel section or the entire mounting.
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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
The soul is dyed the color of its thoughts. Think only on those things that are in line with your principles and can bear the full light of day. The content of your character is your choice. Day by day, what you choose, what you think, and what you do is who you become. Your integrity is your destiny ... it is the light that guides your way. Heraclitus
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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
The Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem And Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online Resources. Open to the public
Free of Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a sizable
collection of art and jewelry galleries, for both the casual visitor and the professional, also host the popular Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <> Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
KEEPING A BUR FROM FORMING WHILE SAWING By Jim Stewart
To prevent a bur from developing on the piece of ring sizing stock from sawing, change to a sawblade that has more teeth per inch (TPI). Example: a 2/0 sawblade has 62 TPI; a 3/0 sawblade has 66 TPI. Also lubricate the back of the sawblade with bees wax and lighten up on your touch; let the sawblade do the work.
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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
A cheerful heart is good medicine. Proverbs 17:22
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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo
Coming April 23 - 25 2004 to Chicago IL
Workshops <> Seminars <> Networking Opportunities Demonstrations <> Exhibitor Show <> Panel Discussion
Everything during this Educational Conference and Suppliers Expo - including the banquet speakers - will be directed toward the bench jeweler.
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo presented by Bench Media publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM For exhibitor information e-mail Brad Simon at: Brad@BWSimon.com
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<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>
Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ, director of technical education for Platinum Guild International http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
SOLDERING VS WELDING PLATINUM
Soldering is usually required when
you are working on a multi-
metal piece, such as an 18K and
platinum combination. The
metal with the lowest melting point
dictates the method used.
When installing minor components to
platinum, such as findings,
soldering is preferred. Whenever you are sizing a ring and need
to use solder, use a 1700 seamless
solder to do the task. Lower
temperature solders tend to show a
seam.
Sizing a platinum ring is normally
done with the welding method,
as long as there are no stones nearby
and the ring is made of
platinum.
The exception here is Pt/Co, as
cobalt oxidizes. To size a Pt/Co
ring, the 1700 seamless solder is
recommended.
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The future doesn't just happen, it is created … our destiny is not in the stars, but in ourselves. We may need to follow in the wake of those who have gone before, but what we do and where we go is ultimately up to us. The attitude of initiative is an on-going state of exploration that is never finished ... a journey that never ends.
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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
“The Jeweler’s Tool of Choice” Jewelry LaserStar Workstations
Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and manufacturers a complete range of Nd: YAG pulse laser systems for retail and manufacturing jewelers. LaserStar Workstations are 50 watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from 85 - 120 joules and are ideal for a wide range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and repair applications in gold, silver, and platinum. Crafford's team of highly trained direct sales and bench jeweler applications specialists are always available to review new applications, share technical expertise, and provide service and technical support from our Providence, RI USA manufacturing facility. All LaserStar Workstations are made in the USA and comply with all FDA (CDRH), CSA, UL, and CE certification guidelines for safety. Four models of the LaserStar Workstation are available to the jewelry marketplace. For more information please reference our web site at www.laserstar.net or www.crafford.com
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<> <> <> <> <> <> FAVORITE TIPS <> <> <> <> <> <> Your article on ventilation was great, and something too often
overlooked in the shop. I always keep a
small stick of incense on the bench where I solder. Break off a tiny piece periodically, and place it on the block
where you will be putting the flame. If
you can smell incense while you are soldering, you are also breathing a lot of
other things too...some that are not as pleasant!
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When you polish a plain bright wedding band, slide the band
snugly down over an inside ring buff, holding the ring on the inside ring buff
against the rotating buff on your polishing machine. This lets you hold
the ring against the buff without burning your fingers. To polish the other side of the wedding
band, bang the inside ring buff point down on a flat surface to dislodge the
now extremely hot wedding band, use the point of the buff to flip the ring
over, then pick up the ring with the buff, bang it again to seat the wedding
band, then polish the other side. Works
great.
Long Jewelers of Chesapeake Virginia
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To polish Platinum to a high shine use Zam on a Blue Stitched buff.
Vinny Cangro
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Gravers make excellent burnishers. A flat graver works wonders on burnishing the edges of bezels and channels. Place the graver in the same manner you would trim the edge of the bezel or channel. Then pull backwards on the graver to burnish rather than pushing forward to cut. In addition, tips of polished gravers of various shapes can be inserted into slits, cut outs, crevices, or any other tight spots and rubbed back and forth to burnish the metal.
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Place jump rings, earring post, and other small findings on a piece of leather on your bench top. Then it will be easier to pick them up with your tweezers, as the points of the tweezers will stick down into the leather allowing you a better grip on the finding.
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When doing any repair a thorough examination must be done to determine what caused the problem and what method will best correct it. NO ONE METHOD WILL SOLVE ALL PROBLEMS.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
Great discoveries and improvements invariably involve the cooperation of many minds. Alexander Graham Bell
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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
At the Bench: New Book from MJSA/AJM Press
Featuring more than 200 full-color photographs, this essential bench resource offers step-by-step guides to common—and not so common—repair and fabrication techniques for gold and silver jewelry. It also offers basic bench preparation and practices (including tips for organizing tools and prioritizing work flow), a guide to taking in repairs, and step-by-step projects ranging from resizing two-tone rings to setting fancy shapes, from building a bracelet hinge to basic chasing and repoussé. Published by MJSA/AJM Press, a division of Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America.
Visit http://www.ajm-magazine.com/atb/index.htm for a preview.
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<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html by Gerald N. Lewy
CHANNEL SETTING
If I have to hammer secure a channel-set stone, I do not do the hammering while holding the ring in a wooden clamp. I find that the wooden holder absorbs the downward force. A better approach is to place the ring on a steel mandrel. On the steel mandrel, the hammering is total and the movement of the gold onto the diamond/stone is more definite. You can apply more downward force with less repetitive hammering motions.
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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
This is the beginning of a new day. You have been given this day to use as you will. You can waste it or use it for good. What you do today is important because you are exchanging a day of your life for it. When tomorrow comes, this day will be gone forever; in its place is something that you have left behind ... let it be something good.
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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
MENTAL PATIENT MAKES $50,000 a year TWISTING WIRE!!!
Yes, it's true and I can show you how to make wire jewelry and do the same thing. You can make money right from your kitchen table making wire jewelry and still keep your day job.
Please send a blank email to mailto:wireworker@royal-responder.com Turn Your Computer into a Multi-Media Training Center
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<> <> <> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <> <> <>
Workshop Safety Tips
From Charles Lewton-Brian
COMPLACENCY One of the biggest issues in safety is complacency. You are used to it. This is the way you have always done it. You don't see anything wrong with the way you do it. Nothing has happened so far. On the morning of the Challenger explosion the engineers went to mission control and said 'Don't fly today; we think the O-rings will not operate at those temperatures. The NASA executives launched the shuttle anyway, arguing that with 28 perfect flights there was nothing to worry about. Just because you have not had an accident or become visibly sick does not mean that nothing will happen.
Avoid complacency. Analyze the existing situation, have a look at things, and be willing to change and re-evaluate on a regular basis. Once every year or so make sure that time and new developments haven't passed you by.
Plan and Act Safely Less evils are likely to happen to you as a result.
For more information on Workshop safety from
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<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>
We are on the World Wide Web. A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site,
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Copyrighted, 2003, BENCH MEDIA. All rights reserved.
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