 |
<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
February 2003
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> REVERES TIPS FOR JEWELERS Tips for Jewelers, Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere FEATURE ARTICLE Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a new technique, or brush up on basic skills. STEWART'S BENCH TIPS Bench Tips from Stewarts International School for Jewelers AT THE PLATINUM BENCH Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International FAVORITE TIPS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers. GERRYS GEMZ Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> At the Bench: New Book from MJSA/AJM Press Featuring more than 200 full-color photographs, this essential bench resource offers step-by-step guides to commonand not so commonrepair and fabrication techniques for gold and silver jewelry. It also offers basic bench preparation and practices (including tips for organizing tools and prioritizing work flow), a guide to taking in repairs, and step-by-step projects ranging from resizing two-tone rings to setting fancy shapes, from building a bracelet hinge to basic chasing and repouss. Published by MJSA/AJM Press, a division of Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America. Visit http://www.ajm-magazine.com/atb/index.htm for a preview. (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> REVERES TIPS FOR JEWELERS <> <> <> <> Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts Avoid marring a surface by keeping abrasives moving and by changing directions constantly. Select the largest tool possible to do a job: file, bur, sanding stick, hammer, etc. Harden earring posts, pin tongs and clasps by rubbing with a burnisher. (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <> Nothing stops the man who desires to achieve. Every obstacle is simply a course to develop his achievement muscle. It钒s a strengthening of his powers of accomplishment. Eric Butterworth (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> MENTAL PATIENT MAKES $50,000 a year TWISTING WIRE!!! Yes, it's true and I can show you how to make wire jewelry and do the same thing. You can make money right from your kitchen table making wire jewelry and still keep your day job. Please send a blank email to mailto:wireworker@royal-responder.com (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <> Royal Flush By Bradney W. Simon A sign on the side of a plumbers truck read, In our business a Flush is better than a Full-House. Thankfully this is not the type of flush this article is about. Instead, this article is about a style of setting small stones that has become very popular in recent years. The stones are set down into the metal without beads or prongs. The tables of the stones are set even with the metal surface in a modified bezel. This is where the name Flush Set derives from; as the stones are set flush with the metal. Flush setting is an advanced setting procedure. Precise craftsmanship must be executed throughout the process to accomplish the desired look. First, lay out the stones in the desired pattern, and mark the metal in the center of each stone. Rubbing beeswax over the metal surface and placing the stones table down will help in positioning the stones. Next, drill a hole through the metal using a small drill bit (less than 1/2 the diameter of the stone) on each of your center marks. The more accurately you drill, the less work you will have to do later. Then, inspect your work to make certain the holes are precisely drilled where the center of each stone is to be. If any holes are off center, you will need to enlarge the hole to center it. Use a krause bur to cut the side of the hole towards the center of the stone. Once all the holes are on center, re-drill the hole with a larger drill bit. Use a drill bit 2/3 the diameter of the stone, and drill through the metal exactly where the center of the stone is to be. Then cut azures on the backside of the metal to clean up the holes. A simple cone shaped azure can be cut using a bud bur. To cut the seat for the stones begin with a straight sided setting bur one size smaller than the diameter of the stone. For example, if your stone is 2.5 mm in diameter select the 2.3 mm bur. Cut the seat to a depth that when set, the stones table will be even with the metal. Then, use a hart bur the same diameter or slightly smaller than the stone. Carefully undercut the seat to allow the stone to snuggly fit into the seat. Begin by holding the bur at a 45-degree angle and cut into one side of the seat. Then with a steady hand, straighten the bur to a 90-degree angle undercutting the opposite side of the seat. The shank of the of the bur must be held precisely at a 90-degree angle to the metal surface or else the seat will be cut on an angle and the stone cannot be set straight. Undercutting the seat in this manner allows you to leave extra metal above the girdle of the stone to use in tightening it. Cutting the seat is the most important part of this setting procedure. Cut the seat too large and you will not be able to tighten the stone without marring the surface of the metal. Cut the seat too small and you may chip the stone trying to force it into its seat. Next, lay the stone into its seat and press it into place with a brass pusher. The stone should fit snuggly in its seat. Using a small highly polished burnisher rub metal down and over the edge of the stone. Hold the burnisher at a 45-degree angle and rub around the top edge of the hole. Due to the process of tightening the stone, some setters refer to this setting technique as Rub Down Setting instead of Flush Setting. Some jewelers use a hammer and punch or a hammer handpiece with their flex-shaft to hammer the metal down over the stone. As a result, this setting technique sometimes is referred to as Hammer Set. If you use this technique be certain to hold the punch at a 45 degree angle to the metal surface and tap lightly ONLY on the edge of the metal until it is worked down over the stone. Do not attempt to tighten the stone by hammering on the metal surface forcing metal over the stone. This causes a dip in the surface surrounding the stone, resulting in an unsatisfactory appearance. Burnishing the metal over the stone is the preferred method of tightening the stone. If the seat is cut properly you will not need to use a hammer. This setting procedure should result in the stone set down in the metal with a highly polished beveled rim surrounding the stone. If you play your hand right, you can trump this technique and deal yourself a truly Royal Flush Set Stone. (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <> Be very careful, then, how you live not as unwise but as wise, making the most of every opportunity. Ephesians 5:15 16 (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> Turn Your Computer into a Multi-Media Training Center Subscribe to BENCH ROM The Multi-Media Magazine for Bench Jewelers BENCH ROM is a complete multi-media educational experience presented on CD ROM. Each Quarterly Issue is packed with information on Stone Setting, Jewelry Repair, Custom Jewelry Manufacturing, and Bench Tips. BENCH ROM is fully interactive allowing you to review only the sections that you want. In addition, an article you can print accompanies each project to review at your bench. Dont just read about it in an article See the Actual Work Performed by Master Jewelers Subscription Rates: 1 year $95 - Less than $24 per CD ROM 2 years $150 - Only $18.75 per CD ROM For more information or to subscribe log onto: http://www.BWSimon.com/BenchRom For a FREE Demo CD ROM send an e-mail to: BenchRom@BWSimon.com be sure to include your complete mailing address. (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <> Bench Tips from Stewarts International School for Jewelers http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/ By Jim Stewart How can you tell whether your shears are RIGHT hand or LEFT hand? Draw a straight line on a piece of paper and hold it in front of you. Take the Shears in your right hand and cut along the line. If you can see the line where you are cutting you have RIGHT hand shears. If you can't see the line because the jaw is in the way you have LEFT hand shears. (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <> Excellence is to do a common thing in an uncommon way. Booker T. Washington (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/ <> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <> Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many Excellent Jewelers from around the world. Membership includes: Topical Discussion Channels, including Bench Work, CAD-CAM, Stone Setting, and many more. You may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More. (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <> Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ, director of technical education for Platinum Guild International http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com FTC Guide for Marking Platinum Jewelry The FTC Platinum Guide for marking jewelry made wholly, or in part, of platinum provides that items consisting of: * 950 parts or more per thousand of pure platinum can be marked "Platinum" without the use of any qualifying statements; * 850 to 950 parts per thousand can be marked in accordance with international standards of "950 Plat." or "950 Pt.," "900 Plat." or "900 Pt.," * "850 Plat." or "850 Pt. (The revised guide permits the use of a two or four letter abbreviation for platinum); * 500 parts per thousand of pure platinum and at least 950 parts per thousand platinum group metals can be marked with the parts per thousand of pure platinum, followed by the parts per thousand of each platinum group metal (example: "600Plat.350Irid." or "600Pt.350Ir. and less than 500 parts per thousand pure platinum cannot be marked with the word platinum or any abbreviation thereof. Copies of the Platinum Guide Federal Register notice and the entire Jewelry Guides are available from the FTC's web site at http://www.ftc.gov and also from the FTC's Public reference Branch, Room 130, 6th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W. Washington D.C. 20580; (202) 326-2222 (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <> Industry and patience are the surest means of plenty. Benjamin Franklin (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS Bradney W. Simon is a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler with over 26 years experience on the bench. He is the Editor and Publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM, and is an accomplished platform speaker, providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. Topics include: For information on having him speak for your organization, log onto; http://www.BWSimon.com /SimonSez Seminars <> <> <> <> SEMINAR SCHEDULE <> <> <> <> March 2 4 MJSA New York, NY March 9 OJA Portland, OR March 16 NWJA Seattle, WA April 21 24 Kindall College of Art (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> <> FAVORITE TIPS <> <> <> <> <> <> In all filing keep the hand and forearm in one straight line. From this position roll the wrist from side to side for rounded surfaces. Do not bend the hand down at an angle to the forearm. Putting pressure on the wrist in this bent position over time will develop carpal tunnel syndrome. Whenever exerting forward pressure on the hand, keep the wrist as straight as possible. < < < < < <> > > > > > Smaller flat pieces can be filed by placing them on the cutting surface of the file and rubbing back and forth. Hold the file steady and use your thumb or index finger for pressure and to guide the metal. Small pieces can be held against the file using a piece of gum eraser. < < < < < <> > > > > > To help hold wedding sets together in perfect alignment while soldering together, hold the rings together in your fingers. Next, place a small amount of super glue between the rings at their tops. Then, clamp the rings as you normally would and solder the back of the shanks together. If any glue remains when finished soak in acetone to remove. Note: before performing this procedure make certain your soldering area is well ventilated. When heated, super glue will emit toxic vapors. < < < < < <> > > > > > When soldering rings together tack them together at 4:30 and 7:30 positions. Then, flow the solder across the back of the shank. This will keep the rings from popping apart if previously sized with low melting solder. < < < < < <> > > > > > When bead or pave setting, dust the mounting and stones with cornstarch. This will eliminate the glare, providing a better view of the metal beads and stones. You can make a dusting bag by placing cornstarch in the center of a cloth handkerchief. Use enough powder to form a ball about the size of a golf ball. Secure the loose ends with a rubber band. The banded end will serve as a handle. Tapping the ball of powder once or twice against the mounting will provide sufficient powder on the mounting. < < < < < <> > > > > > To layout the diamonds for bead setting, place a thin coat of wax over the metal. Then place the stones table down on the metal. The wax will keep them from falling off and you can try several arrangements of the stones to find a pattern that works best. < < < < < <> > > > > > If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <> Success and happiness are not destinations; they are exciting, never-ending journeys. Zig Ziglar (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> If You Like E-Bench YOU WILL LOVE BENCH MAGAZINE BENCH Magazine, a quarterly publication from BENCH Media, is Written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers. Each issue is filled with high-quality instructional articles by working jewelers who are masters of their craft. From Basic Techniques to Advanced Applications - Advancements, BENCH Magazine provides accurate informative instruction from Professional Bench Jewelers. In addition, each issue contains a Bench Tip section where you will learn tricks of the trade from the magazine staff and jewelers around the world. Subscriptions are free to jewelers in the USA and Canada, and only $40 per year for overseas delivery. To subscribe go to http://www.BWSimon.com/BENCH BENCH and E-BENCH - Training Jewelers Worldwide (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> GERRYS GEMZ <> <> <> <> <> Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html By Gerald N. Lewy Tighten all stones before the polishing process or soldering. This way they won't get lost in these two processes so that you have to waste precious time looking for them. (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <> It has always been my belief that a man should do his best, regardless of how much he receives for his services, or the number of people he may be serving or the class of people served. You can start right where you stand and apply the habit of going the extra mile by rendering more service and better service than you are now being paid for. Napoleon Hill (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> The Jewelers Tool of Choice Jewelry LaserStar Workstations Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and manufacturers a complete range of Nd: YAG pulse laser systems for retail and manufacturing jewelers. LaserStar Workstations are 50 watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from 85 - 120 joules and are ideal for a wide range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and repair applications in gold, silver, and platinum. Crafford's team of highly trained direct sales and bench jeweler applications specialists are always available to review new applications, share technical expertise, and provide service and technical support from our Providence, RI USA manufacturing facility. All LaserStar Workstations are made in the USA and comply with all FDA (CDRH), CSA, UL, and CE certification guidelines for safety. Four models of the LaserStar Workstation are available to the jewelry marketplace. For more information please reference our web site at www.laserstar.net or www.crafford.com (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <> <> <> Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian In general you should aim for a well laid-out, orderly workshop; well-lit by multiple non glare light sources. It should have well- maintained equipment, be both electrically and fire safe, with a low dust production and few procedures involving solvents. It should have excellent local ventilation at the appropriate work stations (such as investing or melting areas). You should use work clothing, which is cleaned frequently and lots of personal safety equipment (earmuffs, shoe covers to protect against molten metal splashes, safety glasses etc.). You should have different jobs and heights to work at over the work day, ergonomically considered working actions and a conscious attitude about the need for safety. Choose procedures that don't involve exposure to risks. Set things up so that you can't hurt yourself. Make safety a habit and then it won't seem like work. If you don't use a certain chemical or hazardous procedure in your shop, then you are extremely unlikely to get hurt by it. Substitute less hazardous processes and materials for more dangerous ones. If you have an accident, or a near miss, it needs to be recorded in your accident book and discussed so as to avoid doing the same thing again. For more information on Workshop safety log onto: http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) <> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <> We are on the World Wide Web. A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there. Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site, <> <> <> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <> <> <> We value every subscriber and respect your privacy. We do not sell, rent, or otherwise disclose our list of subscribers To subscribe, send an E-Mail with Subscribe as the subject mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Subscribe If you do not wish to continue receiving this newsletter, send an mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Unsubscribe If you change your e-mail address, PLEASE let us know. Each < < < < < <> > > > > > Information provided in this document is provided As Is without < < < < < <> > > > > > For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests, Copyrighted, 2003, BENCH MEDIA. All rights reserved.
< < < < < <> > > > > > |