 |
<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
November 2002
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS Tips for Jewelers, Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a new technique, or brush up on basic skills. STEWART'S BENCH TIPS Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
TIPS FOR JEWELERS Bench Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
If You Like E-Bench YOU WILL LOVE BENCH MAGAZINE
BENCH Magazine, a quarterly publication from BENCH Media, is Written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers. Each issue is filled with high-quality instructional articles by working jewelers who are masters of their craft.
From Basic Techniques to Advanced Applications - Advancements, BENCH Magazine provides accurate informative instruction from Professional Bench Jewelers. In addition, each issue contains a Bench Tip section where you will learn tricks of the trade from the magazine staff and jewelers around the world.
Subscriptions are free to jewelers in the USA and Canada, and only $40 per year for overseas delivery.
To subscribe go to http://www.BWSimon.com/BENCH
BENCH and E-BENCH - Training Jewelers Worldwide
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <> <> <> <>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
Read trade magazines, attend industry seminars and listen to anyone –who wants to give you advice. customized for your use. finished. (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to success is more important than any other one thing. Abraham Lincoln
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
“The Jeweler’s Tool of Choice” Jewelry LaserStar Workstations
Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and manufacturers a complete range of Nd:YAG pulse laser systems for retail and manufacturing jewelers. LaserStar Workstations are 50 watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from 85 - 120 joules and are ideal for a wide range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and repair applications in gold, silver, and platinum. Crafford's team of highly trained direct sales and bench jeweler applications specialists are always available to review new applications, share technical expertise, and provide service and technical support from our Providence, RI USA manufacturing facility. All LaserStar Workstations are made in the USA and comply with all FDA (CDRH), CSA, UL, and CE certification guidelines for safety. Four models of the LaserStar Workstation are available to the jewelry marketplace. For more information please reference our web site at www.laserstar.net or www.crafford.com
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <> Polishing Your Act By Bradney W. Simon
Many jewelers see polishing as a mundane task. However, it is one of the most important operations in the process of repairing or making jewelry. The final appearance of the jewelry, to large extent, will determine the acceptability of the work by the customer. Although a good polish cannot cover-up poor workmanship, a poor polish will make even the most expert workmanship look sloppy.
Buffing and polishing are the two procedures to produce the final high luster on jewelry. Although often used interchangeably these are two separate operations.
Buffing is an abrasive process where a small amount of the surface is removed. Tripoli is the most commonly used compound for buffing. It will remove minor scratches left from sanding and smooth out all surfaces. However, it will not bright polish.
The final high luster is achieved by polishing. Polishing uses harder compounds such as rouge. Varieties of rouges are available for different uses and are distinguished by their color. Yellow rouge is fast becoming the preferred rouge for gold, as it is less messy than the traditional red rouge. With rouge, there is almost no cutting action; it burnishes the metal, moving the surface layer around to smooth the fine scratches left from buffing.
NEVER mix the rouge and tripoli buffs. You can easily contaminate the rouge buff. Once contaminated with even a slight amount of tripoli, the rouge buff will not produce its normal mirror finish. Always wipe or wash off the jewelry and your hands after using the tripoli buff. It is possible to "carry over" tripoli on the jewelry to the rouge buff.
A discussion of the polishing motor should begin with a warning to respect its capability for inflicting serious personal injury, as well as damage to the article of jewelry. Because the buff wheels are so soft, it is hard to imagine that they can do any damage. This misconception can lead to problems unless you follow certain procedures.
Probably more fingers have been broken or cut off, as well as other serious injuries, while polishing than in all other jewelry related procedures combined. The spinning buffs have a tendency to snatch at anything they encounter. The down draft created by the blower may pull loose clothing or hair into the wheel. The following procedures will help you produce a professional looking finish and minimize the risk of personal injury.
Always work just below the center of the buff wheel. Never raise the jewelry above a horizontal line even with the motor spindle, or lower it too far below. Both of these situations will cause the wheel to grab the item from your hand.
Press your work firmly against the wheel so that you feel the cutting action. However, never press so hard that the motor slows down. Excessive pressure will not give a better polish or polish faster. Light pressure is also ineffective. A firm even pressure throughout the operation is preferred.
Do not use too much tripoli or rouge on the wheels. It is not necessary to apply more compounds each time the buff is used. Apply the compounds when the results indicate it is necessary.
Move the jewelry constantly. Holding it for too long in one position may cut undesirable grooves in the metal. The excessive cutting may also remove details and change the shape. Press the jewelry against the wheel, then move it downward, sideways, roll, rotate, and position it so that the wheel reaches all possible areas of the metal. Then all areas will receive uniform polish, and the cross buffing will result in a higher shine.
Buff solder joints across the joint rather than with it. Solder is softer than the surrounding metal. If you buff with the joint, the solder will polish away quicker, leaving a groove in the metal.
Always hold the jewelry in a breakaway grip. Never interlock your fingers into the piece. Never put a ring on your finger to polish.
Tie long hair back so that it cannot tangle up in the wheel.
Always roll up or button your sleeves, and wear an apron or smock to keep loose clothing away from the wheels.
Use a face shield on the dust collector or wear goggles. The buffing room is no place for vanity, your eyesight is far more important.
Protect your lungs. Always wear a respirator. (The same applies to lungs as eyesight.)
Place a cardboard or carpet pad under the wheels to protect the jewelry from possible damage if pulled out of your hands.
Never take the wheel for granted. Always keep your mind on what you are doing while polishing. If interrupted, stop polishing and turn the machine off. Then come back when you can concentrate on polishing.
Never leave the machine running when you are not in front of it; not even for a few seconds.
Always use a dust collector to keep the dust from blowing around the shop. The money received from the refiner will pay for it in a short time.
A more intricate, controlled polish may be prepared using the flexible shaft. An analogy can be made to mowing lawns. The polishing machine is to polishing what a lawnmower is to cutting grass and the flex-shaft is comparable to a trimmer. You can mow your lawn with a lawnmower with out using a trimmer, but the edges of the lawn are left ragged. You could also mow the entire lawn with just the trimmer. However, the results would be uneven and choppy, not to mention it would take a very long time. For a professionally looking lawn, you need to use both the lawnmower and trimmer.
For a professional looking finish, you need to start with the flex-shaft. Its small wheels and brushes will allow you to polish prongs and other delicate areas without damage, and reach areas inaccessible with the larger wheels. Then buffing and polishing on the larger polishing machine will result in a smooth even high luster, the work of a true jewelry professional.
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
What small potatoes we all are, compared with what we might be! Charles Dudley Warner
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
MENTAL PATIENT MAKES $50,000 a year TWISTING WIRE!!!
Yes, it's true and I can show you how to make wire jewelry and do the same thing. You can make money right from your kitchen table making wire jewelry and still keep your day job.
Please send a blank email to mailto:wireworker@royal-responder.com
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <> Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
SIZING SILVER RINGS WITH STONES By Jim Stewart
To protect a stone when sizing a silver ring, I recommend that you remove the stone to be SAFE. If you leave the stone in the mounting, cover the stone with a commercial thermal shield paste. You can also cover the stone with sand moistened with water. Cover the stone but do not cover too much of the ring as it will absorb too much of the heat.
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
The key to everything is patience. You get the chicken by hatching the egg - not by smashing it. Arnold Glasow
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
At the Bench: New Book from MJSA/AJM Press
Featuring more than 200 full-color photographs, this essential bench resource offers step-by-step guides to common—and not so common—repair and fabrication techniques for gold and silver jewelry. It also offers basic bench preparation and practices (including tips for organizing tools and prioritizing work flow), a guide to taking in repairs, and step-by-step projects ranging from resizing two-tone rings to setting fancy shapes, from building a bracelet hinge to basic chasing and repoussé. Published by MJSA/AJM Press, a division of Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America.
Visit http://www.ajm-magazine.com/atb/index.htm for a preview.
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>
Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ, director of technical education for Platinum Guild International http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
Platinum /Cobalt alloy is slightly ferro-magnetic. This Pt950 alloy has very good flow characteristics and is a superior platinum casting alloy. With its good hardness, it takes on a great polish. The best way to size a Platinum /Cobalt alloy ring is soldering with 1700 solder. Roll the solder paper-thin, wedge it into a very well fitting seam and heat. The seam should be very, very thin. Now use a file to remove excess solder, and BURNISH the seam with a Tungsten burnisher. This should remove all traces of the seam. Now polish and clean the ring.
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
You may delay, but time will not. Benjamin Franklin
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
Turn Your Computer into a Multi-Media Training Center
From the publisher of E-BENCH and BENCH Magazine comes an exciting new educational product – BENCH ROM The Multi-Media Training Experience for Bench Jewelers.
BENCH ROM is a complete multi-media educational experience presented on CD ROM. Each annual subscription includes four CD ROMs providing you quality instruction right in your shop, with over 40 minutes of video showing the actual work in progress in each issue. BENCH ROM is fully interactive allowing you to review only the sections that you want. In addition, an article you can print accompanies each project to review at your bench. Each Quarterly Issue is packed with information on Stone Setting, Jewelry Repair, Custom Jewelry Manufacturing, and BENCH TIPS!
Don’t just read about it in an article See the Actual Work Performed by Master Jewelers
Subscription Rates: 1 year $95 - Less than $24 per CD ROM 2 years $150 - Only $18.75 per CD ROM
For more information or to subscribe log onto: http://www.BWSimon.com/BenchRom
BENCH ROM is the Affordable Alternative to Learning New Skills and Developing Your Career
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> <> FAVORITE TIPS <> <> <> <> <> <>
To solder closed a link in a hollow link bracelet, take a small section of wire that matches the color and karat of the bracelet link. Use a wire diameter that will semi-snuggly fit inside the link. Then, place some paste solder in each end of the link and insert the wire. Gently hold the link closed and heat until the solder melts. The wire will provide more surface area for the solder to flow to make a stronger joint.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
To make certain prongs are down tight on the crown of the stone, hold the mounting at eye level and turn so that you are looking at the prong from the side view. Then, hold your index finger about 1” above the stone. This will shield direct light from the stone, causing a silhouette of the stone and prong. Then, you can easily see light coming through any gaps between the stone and prong. If you cannot see any light between the crown of the stone and the prong, your prongs are down tight and no further tightening is necessary. Taping a 3 X 5 white index card on the wall in front of your bench helps too as it provides a light background to hold the stone in front of for viewing.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
The key to productivity is NOT working faster but working more efficiently.
To increase productivity find areas of wasted time and work to minimize or eliminate it.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Before bead setting stones, properly measure the thickness of your metal. At a minimum, the metal should be as thick as the distance between the girdle and the culet. If the metal is too thin, you will not have enough metal to get a good bead.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Place a doormat in the doorway of the shop. Employees can wipe their feet on it as they leave the shop. This will help in removing particles of precious metal off the soles of their shoes. Replace the mat annually and send the old mat to the refiner with the polishing waste.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
When doing a re-mount, always weigh stones while loose and mark their weight on the envelope. Do this even if an appraisal is not requested at the time of re-mounting, as the customer may ask for one later and the appraiser will need this record of the stone weights when doing the appraisal.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Small objects can be held with pliers or a ring clamp. A small pair of vice grip pliers is a useful tool to hold small parts while filing. File the teeth off the jaws before using so that you will not mar the item you are holding.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
When drilling, periodically pull the drill bit up out of the metal. This will clear any metal chips from the hole. In addition, the drill bit spinning freely in the air will help keep it cool.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
Everyone should be quick to listen, slow to speak, and slow to become angry. James 1:19
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/
<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <>
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many Excellent Jewelers from around the world.
Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels, Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html By Gerald N. Lewy
Place all of your burrs on a plastic peg-board and in sizes from small to large. In this way you will find the exact size you need just by looking for it.
Clean off your bench-filings daily, as it is hard to locate a small diamond amidst all of the gold dust. I once had a fingernail removed because of some gold dust that caused gangrene.
Darken all of your bench tops, as this will reduce all of the "reflective light" and its 'glare'.
See that all of your gravers are in top shape, so when you need one, it is ready for your use.
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
SIMON SEZ SEMINARS
Bradney W. Simon is a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler with over 25 years experience on the bench. He is the Editor and Publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM, and is an accomplished platform speaker, providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. Topics include:
For information on having him speak for your organization, log onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> TIPS FOR JEWELERS <> <> <> <> <>
Bench Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
Drawplates with larger size holes are essential for making tubing. They should be steel and are rather expensive. For occasional use, a wooden draw plate, brass, delrin or nylon may be used. All you need are tapered holes in the plate. While one can draw tubing by hand, in the larger sizes and thicker walls, it is pleasant to have a draw bench for the extra force that is required.
(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>
We are on the World Wide Web. A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site,
<> <> <> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <> <> <>
We value every subscriber and respect your privacy. We do not sell, rent, or otherwise disclose our list of subscribers
To subscribe, send an E-Mail with Subscribe as the subject mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Subscribe
If you do not wish to continue receiving this newsletter, send an mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Unsubscribe
If you change your e-mail address, PLEASE let us know. Each
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without
< < < < < <> > > > > >
For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests,
Copyrighted, 2002, BENCH MEDIA. All rights reserved.
< < < < < <> > > > > > |