October 2002 Volume 3 Issue 10 E- Bench Newsletter

<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>

The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers

October 2002
Volume 3 Issue 10 circulation over 2,200

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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <>

REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS

Tips for Jewelers, Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere

FEATURE ARTICLE

Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a new technique,

or brush up on basic skills.

STEWART'S BENCH TIPS

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

AT THE PLATINUM BENCH

Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International

FAVORITE TIPS

Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier

and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and

E-BENCH Readers.

GERRY’S GEMZ

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

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“The Jeweler’s Tool of Choice”

Jewelry LaserStar Workstations

Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and manufacturers a

complete range of Nd:YAG pulse laser systems for retail and

manufacturing jewelers. LaserStar Workstations are 50

watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from 85 - 120 joules and

are ideal for a wide range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and

repair applications in gold, silver, and platinum. Crafford's team

of highly trained direct sales and bench jeweler applications

specialists are always available to review new applications,

share technical expertise, and provide service and technical

support from our Providence, RI USA manufacturing facility. All

LaserStar Workstations are made in the USA and comply with all

FDA (CDRH), CSA, UL, and CE certification guidelines for

safety. Four models of the LaserStar Workstation are available

to the jewelry marketplace. For more information please

reference our web site at

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<> <> <> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <> <> <> <>

Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere

Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

http://www.revereacademy.com/

Keep scrap from different metals in separate containers.

Harden earring posts, pin tongs and clasps by rubbing with a burnisher.

Charge a file with chalk to prevent clogging.

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<> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Worry does not empty today of its sorrow. It empties today of its strength.

Corrie Ten Boom

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At the Bench: New Book from MJSA/AJM Press

Featuring more than 200 full-color photographs, this essential

bench resource offers step-by-step guides to common—and not

sot common—repair and fabrication techniques for gold and

silver jewelry. It also offers basic bench preparation and

practices (including tips for organizing tools and prioritizing work

flow), a guide to taking in repairs, and step-by-step projects

ranging from resizing two-tone rings to setting fancy shapes,

from building a bracelet hinge to basic chasing and repoussé.

Published by MJSA/AJM Press, a division of Manufacturing

Jewelers & Suppliers of America.

Visit http://www.ajm-magazine.com/atb/index.htm for a preview.

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<> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <>

To V or Not To V

By Bradney W. Simon

To V or not to V? That is the question. Whether ‘tis nobler in the

minds of thou customers to place upon their marquise a prong in

the shape of a V, or dost thou leavest it exposed to the concerns

of the world.

Ok, William Shakespeare I’m not. However, for the bench

jeweler, the question remains. What do you do with this prong in

the shape of a V?

Several shapes of stones have pointed ends, including

marquise, pear, heart, and princess. Because these points are

often thin and fragile, it is important to protect them with a prong.

This is particularly important on rings where the stone may be

subject to more abuse than in pendants, earrings, or brooches.

Although a standard prong will usually suffice, a V shaped prong

is preferable. A V-prong provides additional protection and will

more securely hold the point of the stone.

Special care is necessary when setting these stones to keep

from chipping or breaking the point. Extensive preparation is

necessary and work must be executed with precision to properly

set them. Nothing short of true craftsmanship can be exercised

while attempting to set a stone with pointed ends.

The seat in the V-prong may be cut with a variety of burs,

gravers, drill bits, or files. There is no one best method. The

method used will depend on the situation and one’s own

preference of tools. The following is the basic procedure I most

often follow.

Using a small hart bur cut a line on the inside of the prong at the

height you want the girdle of the stone. Check and double-check

that this line is at the proper height and is straight and level. In

addition to beginning to form the seat, this line will serve as a

guide to base all future cutting on. If this line is off it will be near

impossible to set the stone straight. This line does not have to

be very deep at this point (it can be cut deeper later); however,

do not cut into the prong more than 1/3 the thickness of the

prong.

Next turn the bur 90( and cut a line down the center of the prong.

This cut, along with the first cut, will form a cross-shaped pattern

in the prong. This second cut will allow clearance for the pavilion

of the stone. It is particularly important on the heavier cast

V-prongs.

Using a bud bur cut a hole in the center of the cross. Cut no

further than ½ the way into the prong. This hole creates the void

surrounding the tip of the stone. Make certain there is a cavity

below AND above the tip of the stone. Putting pressure on the

tip of the stone from above with no support underneath will

cause the point to break off.

Finally trim away any excess metal and smooth the seat using a

polished flat graver.

How you cut the seat is not nearly as important as what you

accomplish. The seat you cut in a V-prong must accomplish

three items:

1. A smooth even seat which will support the sides of the point

on the stone.

2. A void to surround the very tip of the stone.

3. Enough metal must be removed to safely push the top of the

prong over the stone, while leaving enough metal to securely

hold and protect the stone.

Once the seat is cut completely, examine it for these items with a

loupe or microscope. First examine the seat, then lay the stone

in the setting and re-examine it. One small bur of metal or ripple

in the seat is all it takes to break the point off a stone.

ALWAYS check the stone with a loupe or microscope before you

begin to push the prongs over the stone. Then check AGAIN

once the prongs are part way down and the stone no longer

rocks. The small amount of extra time taken to check the seats

can save a lot of heartbreak (or point break) later.

With pear or heart shaped stones, bend the V-prong over the

stone first. Then push the remaining prongs over the stone

tightening it in the setting. Setting the stone in this manner

allows the stone to move slightly as you bend the V-prong,

limiting the amount of pressure applied to the fragile tip of the

stone.

On marquise shaped stones, bend the side prongs over the

stone first, securing it into the setting. Then the V-prongs are

adjusted down over the points. The V-prong is seen as

protection to the fragile points rather than as something to hold

the stone. Setting the stone in this manner limits the amount of

pressure applied to the fragile tips of the stone.

You can use several methods to push the prong down onto the

stone. You can use a prong pusher to gently roll the metal over

the stone in the same manner you would push a bezel down.

First, push on one side of the V, then the other. Alternate sides

until the prong is tight against the crown of the stone.

Chain nose pliers with polished jaws can also be used. Place

one jaw at the top of one side of the V, and the other jaw at the

base of the opposite side of the prong. Gently squeeze one side

down a little, then reverse the position of the pliers and move the

opposite side. Work back and forth until the prong is down on

the crown of the stone.

Another method using chain nose pliers is to place both jaws at

the top of the outside edges of the V. Make certain the jaws are

at the top of the prong well above the girdle of the stone. Angle

the pliers to match the angle of the crown facets. Then gently

squeeze the pliers together. As the pliers come together at the

point of the V, the jaws will burnish the metal down onto the

stone. Keep repeating the procedure until the metal is tight

against the stone. As you work, excess metal will form between

the pliers’ jaws, making a line at the point of the V. You should

remove this excess metal with a file. This method works better

on the thinner die struck V-prongs.

Some jewelers cut a V in the top of the prong leaving two tabs to

push over the stone. Then once the tabs are down the seam is

soldered closed. This method works fine on diamonds, but

cannot be used on most color stones. There is one danger in

using this method on diamonds. If excess solder is used it can

flow into the void providing clearance at the tip of the point. As

the solder solidifies it contracts. This can cause the point to chip

or break off.

Once the stone is set, trim and shape the outside of the prongs

using a #6 needle file. Be certain the file has a polished safety

edge to avoid the possibility of chipping or abrading the stone.

Trim and clean up the inside edge of the V with a polished flat

graver. Remove the file marks with an abrasive rubber wheel

and polish.

Remember: Caution Is The Better Part Of Valor. If you feel

uncertain while setting, STOP, take a deep breath, check all your

steps, examine the setting with your loupe, then proceed. If you

still feel uneasy, take a break, get a drink of water, relax a bit.

Then re-examine the setting and proceed to finish the setting.

Follow these steps and you will not suffer a fate such as Juliet

and her Romeo. “Parting is such sweet sorrow, Farewell,

Farewell, I bid you Farewell….”

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything, by prayer

and petition, with thanksgiving, present your request to God.

And the peace of God which transcends all understanding, will

guard your hearts and your minds.

Philippians 4: 6&7

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<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <>

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/

REPAIRING GOLD CHAINS

By Jim Stewart

To cut a link in a gold chain lay the chain on a flat piece of

copper, and cut the links with an X-ACTO knife. It is less costly

to replace an X-ACTO blade than a flush side cutting pliers.

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One does not discover new lands without consenting to lose

sight of the shore for a very long time.

Andre Gide

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Bench Tips.

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To learn more about BENCH ROM and to subscribe log onto to:

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<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>

Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,

director of technical education for Platinum Guild International

http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com/

950/50 PLATINUM /COBALT ALLOY

Platinum in its pure form is very soft and needs to be alloyed.

These Platinum alloys have different advantages and are used

for specific purposes. The flow properties of the 950/50 Platinum

/Cobalt mixtures are best suited for casting. With this alloy very

fine pieces of excellent quality can be cast, and considerable

detail can be achieved. Pt/Co has an annealed hardness (HV) of

130 and when cold-worked achieves a hardness (HV) of 270. It

polishes well and holds its luster for a long time. When welded

with a torch Pt/Co may oxidize slightly. This can be removed by

firecoating the object after the initial welding and re-heating it to

about 1000° F. Pickle in a 10% solution of nitric acid. The

oxidation will not reappear during wear. It is not possible to

torch-weld different Pt alloys together as they have different

melting points. It is always safe to solder them together using

1500 or 1700 solder. As a point of interest, Pt/Co is slightly

magnetic.

Be sure to wear #5 or #6 welding goggles to protect your eyes.

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

You may delay, but time will not.

Benjamin Franklin

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MENTAL PATIENT MAKES $50,000 a year TWISTING WIRE!!!

Yes, it's true and I can show you how to make wire jewelry and

do the same thing. You can make money right from your kitchen

table making wire jewelry and still keep your day job.

Please send a blank email to

mailto:wireworker@royal-responder.com

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<> <> <> <> <> <> FAVORITE TIPS <> <> <> <> <> <>

Sometimes, no matter how carefully I am working, I break a drill.

To remove the embedded drill point, soak the piece of jewelry in

a solution of alum and water. The alum causes a chemical

reaction with iron, greatly accelerating the "rusting" of the drill.

This process takes anywhere from 5 to 24 hours. The

advantage is the surrounding metal is un-affected. Great

lifesaver when you are flush-setting small diamonds and you do

not want to ruin the metal trying to remove a broken drill bit.

Steve Fanelty - Norfolk, VA

< < < < < <> > > > > >

When removing superglue from gold (with Red, White or Blue

Stones) Use Acetone soak. Use Denatured Alcohol if a piece

contains pearls or other porous stones (can take a couple of

days). NEVER use a torch to remove superglue. The burning

fumes are deadly!

Jay Ritchie

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Oil of Wintergreen is very useful as a cutting oil when cutting

gem seats, and a wonderful dressing for your files, it cleans them

as well as enhances their cutting. An added plus is that it smells

good too!

Gail Meyer

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Proper Take-in Procedures Help Everyone!

A single, simple mistake during take-in can erase several

months’ shop profits—and dramatically impact the entire store’s

profitability. It may also destroy your good name; a few

dissatisfied customers can give you a reputation for mishandling

jewelry.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Be careful of customers’ jewelry while it is in your possession.

Always place it in the best safe you have. If robbed it is harder

to replace customer’s jewelry than your own inventory. Even if

the value is lower, the difficulty in finding suitable replacements

adds to the importance of caring for the jewelry.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

When sizing, purposely make the ring 1/8 size too small. Then,

clean the solder joint on the inside of the ring only. Next, place

the ring on a ring mandrel and hammer across the solder joint

until the ring reaches the correct size. Finally, clean up the

outside of the ring with a file, emery, and polish the ring. This

will help you to be more accurate in your sizing (if you are a little

too large you will need to resize). In addition, this will work-

harden the sizing area making a stronger joint, and finishing and

polishing will be easier.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

To measure the size of a finger with a large knuckle, take an

inexpensive set of plastic ring sizers and cut a slit in them with a

fine saw blade. Then when measuring with them, they will open

to go over the knuckle and you can measure the finger for a

proper fit of an adjustable shank.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

When flush setting, the table of the stone should be even with

the surface of the surrounding metal. This is where the term

‘Flush Set’ comes from; as the stone is flush with the metal.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Before attempting to flush set a stone in a wedding band,

measure the thickness of the band. The band MUST be at least

as thick as the stone is deep or the culet of the stone will

protrude into the finger hole.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it

in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Success seems to be largely a matter of hanging on after others

have let go.

William Feather

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Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network

http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/

<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <>

Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going

discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many

Excellent Jewelers from around the world.

Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels,

Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus

Much More.

Trial Period Available

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<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html

BEAD SETTING

By Gerald N. Lewy

When bead setting, the diamond’s table should be even with the

surface of the gold. If the diamond is set lower you will raise a

larger bead, which looks ugly. If the diamond is set higher you

will not have enough metal to form the beads properly.

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