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<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
September 2002
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS Tips for Jewelers, Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a new technique, or brush up on basic skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
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<> <> <> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <> <> <> <>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts http://www.revereacademy.com/
Avoid marring a surface by keeping abrasives moving and by changing directions constantly.
When heating a metal to soften it the flame turns orange at the annealing temperature.
Speed up gold testing by adding cigarette ashes to the acid stripe.
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No one can make you feel inferior without your consent. Eleanor Roosevelt
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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
Namano / Southeastern Findings Service to the Manufacturing Jeweler
We are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding Bands, Jewelry Boxes, Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much More.
Greater Selection - Expanded Inventory - No Minimum Order
Call 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web http://www.sefindings.com
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<> <> <> <> <> SURVEY RESULTS <> <> <> <> <>
I want to thank everyone who took the time to complete our on- line survey. Your opinions are very important to us. Three hundred sixty-five jewelers completed our survey, making it one of the most extensive in the industry.
In our first survey two years ago you told us that you wanted a new magazine for bench jewelers. As a result, we started Bench Magazine. In the same way, the information from our current survey will help us determine what types of new products to offer in the future.
We at BENCH Media are excited by your responses and look forward to developing new educational materials for bench jewelers. The following are some of the results from the survey and the plans we are developing to address them.
Books
By far books were the most requested format, which was not too surprising. What IS surprising is how popular they are. 97% believe there is a need for additional books on various subjects for the bench jeweler, and 98% stated they would purchase a new book on jewelry bench work if the subject was of interest to them.
Due to the high cost of printing books, we had put off our plans to publish new books. However, because of the survey we are accelerating those plans and are now working on developing two to four new books during the next year. We are also in the process of forming BENCH BOOKS, a new division of Bench Media which will publish these and future books.
Although not one of the questions, many of you commented on having the book spiral bound, rather than glued. This allows the book to lay flat at your bench making it easy to follow along. We appreciate this suggestion and will plan on all our books to be spiral bound.
CD ROMs
CD ROMs are preferred 2 to 1 over DVD or VHS tape, and 4.5 to 1 over the Internet. However, a book alone, or a book in conjunction with the CD ROM, are both preferred 4 to 1 over a CD ROM by itself. Although CD ROMs are less expensive to reproduce than books, their production cost is considerably higher.
Because of the survey, we are working on developing a book to go along with our CD ROM – “Favorite Tips”. In addition, we will be adding printable files to BENCH ROM, which debuts this fall. A printable article you can use at your bench will accompany each video in BENCH ROM.
Subjects
Bench Tips, Stone Setting, and Tool Alteration / Making were by far the most requested subjects. We will continue to cover these subjects in each issue of BENCH Magazine and work on providing more coverage of these subjects in E-BENCH.
National Conference
80% of you are very, or somewhat, interested in attending a 2 to 3 day conference for bench jewelers; including workshops, seminars, round table discussions, networking opportunities, and an exhibitor show. One hundred ninety-eight different cities were suggested as places to hold the conference. My favorite was Tahiti :-)
Accordingly, we are beginning to develop plans to hold a conference sometime in 2004. This will be an annual conference held in a different city each year. In addition to having adequate facilities to host the conference, cities will be selected based on ease of travel and low hotel cost.
To all our friends in Australia and Europe - who knows, maybe this will soon be an International Conference!
On-Line Magazine
There was not enough interest at this time, to justify the enormous time commitment to develop an On-Line Magazine.
Pricing
We appreciate the responses to all the pricing questions in the survey. Developing new educational materials does no good if they are not priced within your budget. Your input allows us to set a budget and limit our cost on each project to keep the final price within your expectations.
Quality
Comments at the end of the survey indicate to us that the quality of the information presented is by far your most important consideration when you purchase a new educational product. Rest assured that all new products we produce will contain the same high quality information that you have come to expect from us, and we will continue to bring you additional Master Jewelers willing to share their expertise through articles, videos, and books.
Survey
Although 365 jewelers filled out our survey, over twice that many visited our survey on-line. We believe this large difference between jewelers who viewed our survey, and those who actually completed it, is due in large part to the length of the survey. Rather than having a long survey every two years, we will have short surveys more often in the future.
We are always interested in hearing your comments and suggestions. Whether or not we are conducting a survey, you can always e-mail me your opinions at: Brad@BWSimon.com
Thanks again for your input Brad Simon – Editor & Publisher
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A generous man will prosper; he who refreshes others will himself be refreshed. Proverbs 11: 25
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“The Jeweler’s Tool of Choice” Jewelry LaserStar Workstations
Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and manufacturers a complete range of Nd:YAG pulse laser systems for retail and manufacturing jewelers. LaserStar Workstations are 50 watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from 85 - 120 joules and are ideal for a wide range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and repair applications in gold, silver, and platinum. Crafford's team of highly trained direct sales and bench jeweler applications specialists are always available to review new applications, share technical expertise, and provide service and technical support from our Providence, RI USA manufacturing facility. All LaserStar Workstations are made in the USA and comply with all FDA (CDRH), CSA, UL, and CE certification guidelines for safety. Four models of the LaserStar Workstation are available to the jewelry marketplace. For more information please reference our web site at www.laserstar.net or www.crafford.com
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<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
PROTECTING YOUR TOOLS By Jim Stewart
To keep your steel tools from rusting spray them regularly with CRC Formula 6-56 Multi-Purpose Lubricant, then wipe with a clean cloth. It removes rust and protects against corrosion. You can buy it at Marine or Electrical supply stores. DO NOT use WD-40, which stands for War Development 1940, because the rust will come back.
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You can’t build a reputation on what you are going to do. Henry Ford
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AJM Magazine
Bench jewelers worldwide have found AJM is the Authority on Jewelry Manufacturing. This award-winning monthly trade magazine, published by Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America, offers the latest bench tips and tools, time-saving production techniques, and business strategies for large and small shops alike. From setting and sizing tricks to methods for maximizing metal recovery or purchasing the proper tools, AJM ensures you have the information you need to succeed. To order a free sample copy, visit www.ajm-magazine.com. Also check out our new books, At the Bench (for gold and silver work) and The Platinum Bench.
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<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>
Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ, director of technical education for Platinum Guild International http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com/
FTC Guide for Marking Platinum Jewelry
The FTC Platinum Guide for marking jewelry made wholly, or in part, of platinum provides that items consisting of:
* 950 parts or more per thousand of pure platinum can be marked "Platinum" without the use of any qualifying statements;
* 850 to 950 parts per thousand can be marked in accordance with international standards of "950 Plat." or "950 Pt.," "900 Plat." or "900 Pt.,"
* "850 Plat." or "850 Pt.” (The revised guide permits the use of a two or four letter abbreviation for platinum);
* 500 parts per thousand of pure platinum and at least 950 parts per thousand platinum group metals can be marked with the parts per thousand of pure platinum, followed by the parts per thousand of each platinum group metal (example: "600Plat.350Irid." or "600Pt.350Ir.” and less than 500 parts per thousand pure platinum cannot be marked with the word platinum or any abbreviation thereof.
Copies of the Platinum Guide Federal Register notice and the entire Jewelry Guides are available from the FTC's web site at http://www.ftc.gov and also from the FTC's Public reference Branch, Room 130, 6th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W. Washington D.C. 20580; (202) 326-2222
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Opportunities are usually disguised as hard work, so most people don’t recognize them. Ann Landers
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SIMON SEZ SEMINARS
Bradney W. Simon is a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler with over 25 years experience on the bench. He is the Editor and Publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM, and is an accomplished platform speaker, providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
Topics include: Shop Management Bench Tips Jewelry Demonstrations
For information on having him speak for your organization, log onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars
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<> <> <> <> <> <> FAVORITE TIPS <> <> <> <> <> <>
Before bead setting stones, measure the thickness of your metal. At a minimum, the metal should be as thick as the distance between the girdle and the culet. If the metal is too thin, you will not have enough metal to get a good bead.
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Old needle files make great burnishers. The various shapes of files provide you with an almost endless assortment of different shaped burnishers. To make the burnisher, grind the teeth off the old file being careful that you do not overheat it, as you do not want to remove the temper from the metal. Then polish the metal to a high shine.
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Prong retipping is probably the most under recommended repair yet one of the most important. Whenever you take in jewelry for repair with stones, examine the prongs, and if they are thin, broken, or missing, recommend retipping in addition to the other repairs. Any prong worn to less than one-fourth the original thickness must be retipped or the security of the stone is in jeopardy.
Inform the customer of the possible consequences of worn prongs, and encourage them to examine the prongs under magnification. If the customer declines retipping after being informed of worn prongs, state on the envelope the condition of the prongs, the customer’s desires, and that you will not be responsible if the stone is lost. Not only are shop profits increased from the additional work, but also store liability from stones falling out after the customer picks up their jewelry is reduced substantially.
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The key to productivity is NOT working faster but working more efficiently.
To increase productivity find areas of wasted time and work to minimize or eliminate it.
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To measure the size of a finger with a large knuckle, take an inexpensive set of plastic ring sizers and cut a slit in them with a fine saw blade. Then when measuring with them, they will open to go over the knuckle and you can measure the finger for a proper fit of an adjustable shank.
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Place small bezels into your #30 handpiece. Then hold a burnisher against the bezel as you turn it slowly. The bezel will form over the stone smoothly and evenly all the way around the stone.
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Keep broken saw blades in a container near where you solder. You can then use them to point to the brake in a chain to see where to solder.
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Use bent chain nose pliers to set stones with, instead of regular chain nose pliers. Then, your hand and the body of the pliers will be out of your line of sight, allowing you a better view of the work you are doing.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
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A man is not idle because he is absorbed in thought. There is a visible labor and there is an invisible labor. Victor Hugo
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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/
<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <>
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many Excellent Jewelers from around the world.
Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels, Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
Trial Period Available
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<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
FLUSH SETTING By Gerald N. Lewy
When you attempt to push the metal over a flush set stone, be very careful that the pusher is nowhere near the facets. As you are bending the metal over, you are slowly compressing it onto the stone and it will spread. This ‘spreading’ will do the remainder of the metal pushing for you so you won’t have to actually touch the stone risking damage to the stones' facets. Let the spreading do the final work for you.
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MENTAL PATIENT MAKES $50,000 a year TWISTING WIRE!!!
Yes, it's true and I can show you how to make wire jewelry and do the same thing. You can make money right from your kitchen table making wire jewelry and still keep your day job.
Please send a blank email to mailto:wireworker@royal-responder.com
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If You Like E-Bench YOU WILL LOVE BENCH MAGAZINE
BENCH Magazine, a quarterly publication from BENCH Media, Is Written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers. Each issue is filled with high-quality instructional articles by working jewelers who are masters of their craft.
From Basic Techniques to Advanced Applications - From Centuries Old Procedures to the Latest in Technological Advancements, BENCH Magazine provides accurate informative instruction from Professional Bench Jewelers. In addition, each issue contains a Bench Tip section where you will learn tricks of the trade from the magazine staff and jewelers around the world.
Subscriptions are free to jewelers in the USA and Canada, and only $40 per year for overseas delivery.
To subscribe go to http://www.BWSimon.com/BENCH
BENCH and E-BENCH - Training Jewelers Worldwide
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<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>
We are on the World Wide Web. Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site, adding additional useful information for bench jewelers.
<> <> <> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <> <> <>
We value every subscriber and respect your privacy. We do not sell, rent, or otherwise disclose our list of subscribers for any reason. Your Email Address Is Kept Strictly Confidential.
To subscribe, send an E-Mail with Subscribe as the subject mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Subscribe
If you do not wish to continue receiving this newsletter, send an E-Mail with Unsubscribe as the subject mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Unsubscribe
If you change your e-mail address, PLEASE let us know. Each month we have several newsletters returned to us because the e-mail address is no longer in service. We have no alternative method of contacting you, and cannot send you future issues unless you notify us of your new e-mail address. mailto:E-Bench@BWSimon.com
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Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided with the understanding that the author or publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be sought.
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For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests, please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
Copyrighted, 2002, BENCH MEDIA. All rights reserved.
BENCH MEDIA 106 South Pinepoint Dr. Spartanburg, SC 29302
http://www.BWSimon.com
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