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<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
November 2001
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS Useful tips to help you find things in the studio from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
TRADE SECRETS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
SIMON SEZ SEMINARS See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International
FEATURE ARTICLE Learn how to make you shop more profitable, a new technique, or brush up on basic skills. PRODUCT REVIEW See how our staff feels about a tool or educational product.
GERRY’S GEMZ Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
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<> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS <> <> <> <> <>
Here are some useful tips to help you find things in the studio
FINDING YOUR CHUCK KEY By Alan Revere
retractable spring gadgets that hold a ring of keys on your belt (sometimes known as a Keyback or key caddy), under your bench top. Instead of keys, attach your chuck key. Now it is always exactly where you left it.
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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and manufacturers a complete range of Nd:YAG pulse laser systems for retail and manufacturing jewelers. LaserStar® Workstations are 50 watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from 85 – 120 joules and are ideal for a wide range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and repair applications in gold, silver, and platinum. Crafford’s team of highly trained direct sales and applications specialists are always available to review new applications, share technical expertise, and provide service and technical support from our Providence, RI USA manufacturing facility. All LaserStar Workstations are Made In USA and comply with all FDA (CDRH) and CE certification guidelines for safety. Four models of the LaserStar Workstation are available to the jewelry marketplace. For more information please reference our web site at www.laserstar.net or www.crafford.com
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<> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <>
Before taking a magnet to your filings, wrap it in a tissue. When you are finished going through your filings, remove the tissue wrapping the attracted steel pieces and filings in it. Then toss the tissue in with your polishing waste. This makes it easier to remove the metal particles from the magnet.
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To clean items of jewelry with loose stones use a small zip top plastic bag. Fill the bag half full with cleaning solution from your ultrasonic cleaner. Then place the jewelry in the bag and close it trapping as much air as possible in the top half of the bag. Place the bag in the ultrasonic cleaner. The air in the bag will allow it to float around in the tank. When clean, remove the jewelry and carefully pour out the solution. Any stones that may have fallen out will be in the bag, rather than at the bottom of the ultrasonic cleaner.
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Take an old setting bur and grind the point off. Grind down just past the edge that cuts the seat for the girdle of the stone. What you have left is a wheel bur with teeth on the edge only. In essence, a wheel bur with a safety edge. With this bur you can trim the inside edge of a bezel or channel setting to remove the wavy edge left from hammering it over the diamonds. Cut carefully so as to not remove too much metal. This will leave a smooth even edge that can be easily polished with a graver.
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To straighten kinks in flat chains such as herringbone, lay the chain out on a hard surface such as a formica counter top. Then carefully roll across the kink with a wooden wallpaper seam roller.
A bad kink may be removed with the following method: Grasp the chain between your thumb and index finger, placing one hand on each side of the kink, then slowly rotate your hands in a circular motion in the direction opposite of the chain twist.
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Draw two pieces of wire through the hole of a draw plate at the same time to create ½ round wire.
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When working with platinum, cleanliness is not only next to Godliness, it is an essential work habit. Because of the high temperatures involved in soldering, other metals can easily contaminate platinum. Platinum can also become contaminated from other metals on your files, saw blades, emery paper, and buff wheels. To properly work on platinum you MUST have a clean work area and have separate tools reserved for platinum use only.
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To help hold wedding sets together in perfect alignment while soldering together, hold the rings together in your fingers. Next, place a small amount of super glue between the rings at their top. Then, clamp the rings as you normally would and solder the back of the shanks together. If any glue remains when finished soak in acetone to remove. Note: Before performing this procedure make certain your soldering area is well ventilated. When heated super glue will emit toxic vapors.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
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If you like Trade Secrets then you’ll love Trade Secret of the Day a bench tip provided daily Monday through Friday on various Internet web sites including: http://www.jewelrydealersnetwork.com/ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/orchid.htm http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/Jeweller
If you know of a jewelers’ bulletin board or discussion channel that you would like to see Trade Secret of the Day posted on, have the administrator contact me at Brad@BWSimon.com
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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
The only man who never makes mistakes is the man who never does anything. Eleanor Roosevelt
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<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>
Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker; providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars
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TRADE SECRETS - TUCSON Tucson AZ February 7, 2002 This one-day seminar coincides with the Tucson Gem Shows and is the day before Catalog in Motion.
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<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
KEEPING TOOLS FROM RUSTING By Jim Stewart
Spray your steel tools regularly with CRC formula 6-56 multi- purpose lubricant. It removes rust and protects against corrosion, then wipe with a clean cloth. You can buy it at Marine or Electrical supply stores. Don't use WD-40, because the rust will come back.
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Large-scaled success today is spelled T E A M W O R K. The successful teamworker doesn’t wear a chip on his shoulder, doesn’t look for slights, isn’t constantly on the alert least his ‘dignity’ be insulted. He puts the good of the house – the company – first. And if the whole prospers, he, as an active, effective, progressive part, will prosper with it. B. C. Forbes
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<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>
Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ director of technical education for Platinum Guild International http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com/
SOLDERING VS WELDING PLATINUM
Soldering is usually required when you are working on a multi- metal piece, such as 18K and Platinum combination. The metal with the lowest melting point dictates the method used. When installing minor components to Platinum, such as findings, soldering is preferred. Whenever you are sizing a ring and need to use solder, use a 1700 seamless solder to do the task. Lower temperature solders tend to show a seam.
Sizing a Platinum ring is normally done with the welding method, as long as there are no stones nearby and the ring is made of Platinum.
The exception here is Pt/Co, as cobalt oxidizes. To size a Pt/Co ring, the 1700 seamless solder is recommended.
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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
If You Like E-Bench
YOU WILL LOVE BENCH MAGAZINE
A New Print Magazine For Bench Jewelers
BENCH Magazine, a new quarterly publication from B W Simon, is Written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers. Each issue is filled with high-quality instructional articles by working jewelers who are masters of their craft; enhanced by line drawings, color renderings, or photographs.
From Basic Techniques to Advanced Applications - Advancements, BENCH Magazine provides accurate informative instruction from Professional Bench Jewelers. In addition, each issue contains a Bench Tip section where you can learn tricks of the trade from the magazine staff and jewelers around the world.
Subscriptions are free to jewelers in the USA and Canada, and only $40 per year for overseas delivery.
To subscribe go to http://www.BWSimon.com/BENCH
BENCH and E-BENCH - Training Jewelers Worldwide (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
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LASTING FOREVER By Bradney W. Simon CMBJ
A James Bond movie in 1971 gave the jewelry industry quite a boost. Savvy jewelers around the country picked-up on the title of the movie and used it as a phrase to sell more diamonds. Even today, the theme song from that film is used as background music for many jewelry store commercials.
As good as a promotion of diamond jewelry this is, it has developed a misunderstanding among many customers. Maybe ‘Diamonds Are Forever’, but the prongs that hold them are not. As your customers wear their jewelry, the metal holding the stones slowly wears away. This puts the security of the stones in jeopardy. A simple procedure in the shop can remedy this. Simple that is if certain precautions are followed.
Darn It, It’s a Garnet
We have all heard that Old Glory is the standard for retipping. That is the colors of the American flag; red, white, and blue, are the color of stones that you can retip on. However, those colors apply ONLY to Ruby, Diamond, and Sapphire. There are many red and blue stones, and imitation diamonds, which will not take the heat of retipping.
I will never forget one incident that took place during the first year I worked on the bench. I received a tennis bracelet (although back then they were not called this) with all red stones. The instructions were to retip all prongs. To my dismay all the stones cracked and shattered. I showed the bracelet to the store manager who informed me the stones were garnet not ruby. The store had to replace all the stones and I learned a new saying; Old Glory may be my guide, but Darn It It’s A Garnet.
Caution: Over the past several years, new gemstone enhancements have been developed. Although diamonds, sapphires, and rubies will withstand the heat from torch soldering, the enhancements will not survive the high temperatures. Diamond enhancements are easy to detect in the shop, however sapphires and rubies are not. Because of this, it is advisable to either remove large expensive sapphires and rubies from their mountings before rebuilding the prongs or to use a Laser Welder to retip with.
Don’t It Just Burn You
Although Diamonds will withstand heat, it is possible for them to burn. In order to burn, diamonds need two things, heat and oxygen.
Diamonds burn in pure oxygen at about 1320 degrees Fahrenheit. In air (which is about 20% oxygen), the temperature raises to around 1560 F. Depending on who makes your solder, 14k solders melt between 1200 & 1500 degrees. Easy solders are at the low end and hard at the upper end. Most 18k solders are in this range, however some melt in the 1500's and 19k white weld often exceed 1600 degrees. Although most solders melt at a temperature below the burning point of diamonds the heat from the torch will often heat the diamond beyond the temperature at which it will burn.
Because of this, you must coat the diamond with boric acid. To do this mix boric acid powder with denatured alcohol. Dip the jewelry in this mixture and light it. As the alcohol burns, a coating of boric acid powder remains. When this is heated, the powder melts forming a glassy coating over the diamond and jewelry. This seals out oxygen allowing you to heat it to higher temperatures.
When heating a stone to retip on, be certain the glassy coating of boric acid completely covers the stone. If there is a "hole" in the glassy coating, the diamond can burn in that spot. In addition, if the jewelry is not completely clean before beginning, problems may develop. For example, if dirt is around a prong it will keep the boric acid from contacting the diamond at that place. As the temperature rises, the dirt burns away exposing the diamond, subjecting it to possible burning.
Hot Rocks
Always allow all stones to cool slowly after retipping. Never quench a hot stone. The rapid cooling can cause a stone to crack especially a stone with inclusions. Do not soak the boric acid off the jewelry until you can pick the stone up with your fingers. In addition, remember that with a large stone the inside of the stone will cool slower than the surface. Be certain the stone is completely cool before soaking.
Getting to the Point
Be careful when retipping any stone with points such as pear, marquise, and princess shape stones. The thin points of the stone will heat up much quicker than the heaver body of the stone. This difference in temperature can cause the stone to crack. For this reason gradually heat the entire stone before concentrating the heat on the point prong.
In addition, metal and stones expand and contract by different amounts when heated and cooled. A problem develops during retipping if solder is allowed to flow completely around the point of a stone. The solder will contract as it cools squeezing the point. This may cause it to break off.
The best method to retip a stone with a point is to make a cap in the shape of the prong. Then with a minimum of solder, attach the cap to the top of the prong. Do not allow solder to flow under the stone, completely encircling the stone point. If the prong is worn to the place that it needs more work than just a cap, it is best to remove the stone and replace the crown or prong.
Easy Money
Frequently a ring brought into the store for another type of repair also needs prongs retipped. Prong retipping is probably the most under-recommended repair, and one of the most important. Whenever you take-in jewelry with stones, examine the prongs; if they are thin, broken, or missing, recommend retipping in addition to the other repairs. Any prong worn to less than one- fourth the original thickness must be retipped or the security of the stone is in jeopardy.
Inform the customer the possible consequences of worn prongs, and encourage them to examine the prongs under magnification. If the customer declines retipping after being informed of worn prongs, state on the envelope the condition of the prongs, the customer’s desires, and that you will not be responsible if the stone is lost. Not only are shop profits increased by the additional work, but also store liability from stones falling out after the customer picks up their jewelry is reduced substantially.
You don’t need to be 007 to figure out if a prong needs to be retipped, but if you keep your customers prongs in good shape their Diamonds may last Forever in their jewelry.
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I do the very best I know how – the very best I can; and I mean to keep on doing so until the end. Abraham Lincoln
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<> <> <> <> <> PRODUCT REVIEW <> <> <> <> <>
REVERE ON GOLDSMITHING Project 1 - Japanese Pattern Earrings
“Making jewelry is a lot like building a house, you have to make sure you have a good foundation” states Alan Revere as he helps you build a solid foundation of bench skills in this excellent training video. He goes on to say, “When you make a piece of jewelry, the most important step is the one you’re doing. If you make a mistake in the beginning things will never get better.”
It is with this meticulous attention to details that Alan Revere teaches the fundamental skills of sawing and filing while creating a pair of silver earrings. Although directed to the apprentice jeweler, advanced jewelers should not dismiss this training video as simplistic. ‘Revere On Goldsmithing’ provides sound, systematic instruction necessary for the beginning jeweler and a wonderful refresher for more experienced jewelers.
The majority of this training video is a masterful demonstration of the versatility of the jeweler’s saw. Demonstrated are the techniques of piercing, filing, scribing lines, and cutting off stock, all done with the jeweler’s saw. Tips given include minimizing sawblade breakage, and achieving precision workmanship.
File selection is covered in detail with consideration given to the file’s shape and coarseness of cut. Techniques demonstrated include filing both convex and concave surfaces as well as filing flat surfaces. Tips are given on reaching small hard to file areas and filing into corners.
In addition to these two fundamental skills, Revere also demonstrates layout, drilling, annealing, hardening wire, forming, dapping, bending wire, sanding, polishing, and applying finishes. Numerous tips are given throughout the video on these skills as well as productivity tips, and a trick to making matching earrings. Safety and ergonomic issues are also covered.
‘Revere On Goldsmithing Project 1-- Japanese Pattern Earrings’ is an excellent training video on basic techniques and would be a valuable addition to any jeweler’s library. It is available from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts or Rio Grande http://www.riogrande.com/
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A cheerful heart is good medicine Proverbs 17:22
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<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
by Gerald N. Lewy
Before placing a ring on a ring mandrel, take the few extra moments and check with a loupe for the culet of any stones. If any culet protrudes into the finger hole, slide the ring onto a grooved mandrel.
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<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>
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Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/
<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <> Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many Excellent Jewelers from around the world. Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels, Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More. List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application and you will receive: ** ** 30 DAYS FREE MEMBERSHIP ** **
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<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>
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