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The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
September 2001
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS Useful tips to help you find things in the studio from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
TRADE SECRETS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
SIMON SEZ SEMINARS See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International
FEATURE ARTICLE Learn how to make you shop more profitable, a new technique, or brush up on basic skills. (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
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Here are some useful tips to help you find things in the studio
FINDING THE CENTER OF A CIRCLE By Alan Revere
circles, but chances are you already have all you need for that task, sitting on your bench. Grab your dividers and place one point on the circle. Then adjust the opening to what you guess is about the distance to the center. Now scribe a very light arc onto the metal, with one point fixed on the circle. Move the fixed point about 1/3 around the circle and repeat. Then swing the last arc from a point about 2/3 around the circle from the first point, so that you now have three arcs coming close to the center. They overlap closely, miss each other closely or meet in the middle. No matter what the outcome, it is now very easy to find the center of these arcs, which is the center of the circle.
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<> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <>
most often. If one is dull, use another one. When all are dull, sharpen them at the same time. Sharpening three gravers at the same time takes less time than sharpening one graver three separate times. In addition, if a tip breaks or dulls in the middle of a job, you can finish the job and sharpen when finished. This saves time from having to keep stopping to sharpen a graver.
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When channel setting square stones, a tapered square hole must be cut to accommodate the pavilion of the stone. This can be accomplished by first using a hart bur held perpendicular to the mounting to cut the four-corners. Then, use a small wheel bur to remove the metal between the corner cuts.
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To make a power burnisher, remove the screw from the end of a flex-shaft mandrel. Insert a screw eye in its place and solder together. To use, place in your flex-shaft and hold the rotating screw eye against your metal. The edges of the screw eye will burnish any soft metal, and you can watch your progress through its opening.
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Placing a section of a bamboo skewer in your flex-shaft can make an excellent wood lap polishing point. File the protruding end to a point, and use your favorite rouge. The bamboo skewers are approximately 3/32” in diameter, which makes them easy to use in a quick-change handpiece.
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Over time, the hinge on an adjustable shank becomes loose because the holes begin to wear out, allowing "play" in the hinge. An easy method to alleviate this is to re-drill the hole with a slightly larger drill bit then re-rivet the hinge with a larger hinge pin.
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Tip from Bob Grandbois To repair a herringbone chain, first remove all of the bad links. Then make a bias cut on each end of the chain with a thin disk. Test the fit, then pull apart and coat with boric acid and apply a small amount of 14k paste solder to each open side. Slide the chain together and lay flat on a clean carbon block. Place 2 pennies made before 1981(starting with 1982 they may be made of zinc) on each side to act as a heat sink. Then gently heat with your torch. Push down on any stubborn sections with a sharpened and cleaned solder pick. Drop in the pickle leaving out any clasp with a steel spring. Polishing can be done with a pink wheel with polishing compound. Sometimes I use whiteout on larger chains to help block the solder from running. < < < < < <> > > > > >
If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
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If you like Trade Secrets then you’ll love Trade Secret of the Day a bench tip provided daily Monday through Friday on various Internet web sites including: http://www.jewelrydealersnetwork.com/ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/orchid.htm
If you know of a jewelers’ bulletin board or discussion channel that you would like to see Trade Secret of the Day posted on, have the administrator contact me at Brad@BWSimon.com
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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
Success and happiness are not destinations, they are exciting, never-ending journeys. Zig Ziglar
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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and manufacturers a complete range of Nd:YAG pulse laser systems for retail and manufacturing jewelers. LaserStar® Workstations are 50 watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from 85 – 120 joules and are ideal for a wide range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and repair applications in gold, silver, and platinum. Crafford’s team of highly trained direct sales and applications specialists are always available to review new applications, share technical expertise, and provide service and technical support from our Providence, RI USA manufacturing facility. All LaserStar Workstations are Made In USA and comply with all FDA (CDRH) and CE certification guidelines for safety. Four models of the LaserStar Workstation are available to the jewelry marketplace. For more information please reference our web site at www.laserstar.net or www.crafford.com
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<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>
Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker; providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars
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> > > > Connecticut Jewelers Association < < < <
October 24, 2001 Bradney Simon will be presenting information from Run Your Shop Without It Running You, and Trade Secrets For more information call Ed Isenberg 860-246-6566
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TRADE SECRETS Tucson AZ February 7, 2002 This one-day seminar coincides with the Tucson Gem Shows and is the day before Catalog in Motion.
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<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
RECOVERING GOLD FROM THE ULTRASONIC By Jim Stewart
Pour the solution through a paper coffee filter that is inside a strainer. The solution then runs into a large can or bowl. Next, use a paper towel to wipe the sludge out of the tank. Place the coffee filter and paper towel inside a plastic trash bag and when full send it to a refinery. The old solution can be reused. Put it back into the ultrasonic tank, and then add a little non- ammoniated concentrate.
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A successful man continues to look for work after he has found a job. Anonymous
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<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>
Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ director of technical education for Platinum Guild International http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com/
TESTING FOR PLATINUM Even though there are electronic testers and acid tests to determine the metal of a piece of jewelry, the quickest way to test if something is platinum is very simple. With a graver, remove a very small splinter of metal from an inconspicuous area, such as the underside of a ring. Place that splinter on a soldering surface and apply heat with your torch. If the splinter starts to brightly glow and won't immediately melt, it is platinum. If it balls up, it is some other white metal. This is not very scientific, but it works. It will not tell you the alloy combination. To check if something is Platinum /Cobalt, just file the item a bit and see if you can pick up the filing with a magnet. Pt/Co is ferro-magnetic.
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Give away your life; you’ll find life given back, but not merely given back – given back with bonus and blessing. Giving, not getting, is the way. Generosity begets generosity. Luke 11:36
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TAKE-IN NOT TAKEN Part 2
In last month’s article, we looked at the importance of the take-in process. This month we will look at the essential, but often overlooked, step of inspection of the customer’s jewelry.
When inspecting the customer’s jewelry always use 10-power magnification. A loupe is adequate, but a microscope is preferred since your hands are then free to check stones with tweezers. While you are inspecting the piece, ask questions and listen carefully to the answers. Record the information on the envelope. Some of the questions you may ask your customers include: What needs to be repaired? Did our store sell the jewelry originally? Has our store ever repaired it? Has anyone else repaired it? Is it an heirloom? What do you know about the jewelry? Are the stones clarity enhanced? Are they genuine? What type of metal is it? Is the jewelry worn every day or only on special occasions?
Do all parts of your inspection in view of your customer and explain to them what you are doing and why. This is important in establishing a high comfort level, especially if the customer is new to your store. Many customers are apprehensive about leaving their jewelry. Your knowledge and professionalism at take-in will ease their mind.
There are five areas you need to inspect on the jewelry. They are the stones, the prongs, the metal, the condition of the jewelry, and the area for repair.
STONES A sign in my dentist office reads; “You do not have to brush and floss all your teeth; only the ones you want to keep!” The same applies to take-ins. You do not have to check every stone, just the ones you do not want to replace.
Inspect for any missing Stones. Inspect each stone for tightness; if any are loose, notify the customer and write it on the envelope. Any repair will require tightening the stones at an additional charge.
Inspect each stone for defects: chipping, abrading, or breakage. Notify the customer immediately if you find any of these conditions and make a notation on the envelope.
Count all stones and measure them to a tenth of a millimeter. Explain to the customer that this measurement helps identify their stone.
Check for a laser inscription on the girdle. If one is there, write the number on the envelope. Customers sometimes purchase laser-inscribed diamonds because they fear stone switching. Your recognizing and referencing the number will ease their mind about leaving it with you. If you sold the stone, this re- enforces the importance of the laser inscribed number and helps for future sales.
Inspect each stone for clarity enhancement.
Check colored stones for oiling, opticon, or other fillers. Look for any enhancements that might be unstable.
Check stones that appear to be diamonds for fracture filling or laser drilling. Fracture-filled diamonds present a difficult situation. Heat from a torch and ultrasonic or steam cleaning can damage or completely remove the filling.
PRONGS Next, inspect the prongs securing the stones. Frequently a ring brought in for another type of repair also needs prongs retipped. Any prong worn to less than one-fourth the original thickness must be retipped or the security of the stone is in jeopardy.
Identify all worn prongs on the envelope, tell the customer the possible consequences of worn prongs, and encourage them to examine the prongs under magnification. This is good business; it not only increases shop revenue but also saves you from having to replace a lost stone. If the customer declines retipping after having been informed of worn prongs, state on the envelope the condition of the prongs, the customer’s desires, and that you will not be responsible if the stone is lost.
Often salespeople do not suggest these additional repairs because they do not want to appear to be gouging the customer for unnecessary repairs. This can be avoided if handled properly at the time of take-in. When providing an explanation always keep the attitude that you are only looking out for their best interest. The customer is more likely to feel they are being taken advantage of if they are called a day or two later by the bench jeweler informing them they need additional repairs, rather than having them properly explained at take-in.
METAL While you are examining the jewelry look for any hallmark or trademark and quality stamp identifying the type of metal. Do not assume the quality stamp is always correct.
Visually inspect the metal. Does the appearance and feel of the metal agree with the stamp? Is there plating wearing off with base metal showing through? Do the stamp and your inspection agree with what the customer stated? Use a metal tester if you have any doubts.
CONDITION OF THE JEWELRY Inspect the condition of the piece of jewelry. Are there nicks in the metal or deep scratches? Are there any cracks? Are previous solder joints visible? Is engraving or special finishes worn off? If there is enamel is it abraded, chipped, or falling out?
Examine the condition of the shank. Is it worn? Does it need to be re-shanked rather than just sized?
Examine the jewelry for previous repairs. Were they done poorly? Will they affect your ability to repair it properly at this time? Is there soft solder on the jewelry? Can it be removed so that the repair can be accomplished? Many times items cannot be repaired properly because of previous repairs.
Note on the envelope the current condition of the piece; this protects you from accusations that you damaged the jewelry during repair. If the piece of jewelry is badly worn, or poorly repaired, suggest replacing the mounting. Owners of old worn jewelry are great prospects for remounts or custom-designed jewelry.
AREA FOR REPAIR Carefully examine each area needing repair, and consider all factors involved in the work before accepting and pricing the job. If your inspection raises doubts or questions about the eventual success of the work, ask the manager or bench jeweler to look at the piece.
Sometimes it is advantageous to turn down a repair job rather than assume future responsibility, disappoint the customer or chance damaging the piece. It might be better, for example, to refer the owner of a new ring with one broken prong to the place where it was purchased. The manufacturer may repair or replace it; if you repair it, the customer may link you with any problems developing in the future. In addition, do not take in jewelry for repair if the work is beyond the ability of your jeweler or the outside contractor you use.
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A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty. Winston Churchill (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>
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<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>
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Copyrighted, 2001, B W Simon. All rights reserved.
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