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<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
July 2001
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU A feature article on shop management issues
QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING Motivational insights from some of the best
SIMON SEZ See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person
REVERE FINDING TIPS This new column contains useful tips to help you find things in the studio from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
TRADE SECRETS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
ON THE BENCH Learn a new technique or brush up on basic skills with this
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If you like E-BENCH You’ll LOVE BENCH A new print magazine for bench jewelers.
BENCH magazine a new quarterly publication from B W Simon is Written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers. Each issue will be filled with high-quality instructional articles enhanced by line drawings, color renderings, or photographs from a variety of actual jewelers. Subjects covered will include new technologies such as laser welding and CAD, as well as traditional techniques in jewelry repair, fabrication, casting, and stone setting. In addition, each issue will contain motivational quotes, and bench tips. Subscriptions are free to jewelers in the USA and Canada,
To subscribe go to http://www.BWSimon.com/BENCH
OR: US OR CANADA - send a post card with your name and complete mailing address to:
BENCH
OVERSEAS – send your check for $40 US for delivery, along with your complete mailing address to:
BENCH
The first issue will be mailed mid August.
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<> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU <> <>
Overcoming the BIGGEST Obstacle to Raising Prices
I have found that whenever we raised jewelry repair prices in any of the stores I worked for, repairs would drop off for about 6 months. I always thought we might have raised our prices too high and customers were objecting to the prices. Then one day we implemented a substantial price increase and shop work really dropped off. I asked the salespeople about this as it was really affecting the shop’s income. I asked them how many customers were turning down repair work because the price was too high. They told me NONE!
What I found out was that the SALESPEOPLE thought the price was too high, not the customers. When a customer brought a ring in to be sized in the past, they would recommend other add- on repairs like retipping. Now, because they thought the price was too high they were afraid to ask for additional work. I even found salespeople recommend putting on a gold-filled ring guard instead of sizing down because they were afraid to ask for the higher price. After about 6 months the salespeople became accustomed to the new prices and the repair work would be back to normal.
To me the biggest hurdle to overcome in raising prices is the salesperson not the customers! “How can we charge so much for jewelry repair, when the customer has so many needs?”, the salespeople would ask. It is easier to charge more for a perceived ‘need’ than a ‘want’, they would reason, and jewelry repair and custom design is just a ‘want’ not a ‘need’.
I agree that charging for needs is easier than charging for wants. However, you have to realize that jewelry and jewelry repairs are not a want, a desire, or a luxury – THEY ARE A NEED!
Remember back in school we learned about Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs. Abraham Maslow developed a list of humans’ five needs. The first is Physical Needs. These are the basic needs like air, food, water, and sleep. Next is Safety / Security Needs followed by Social Needs. The fourth on the list is Esteem Needs. Esteem needs involve achievement, status, and self- respect. Once the lower needs are met, people have a NEED to have their self-esteem built up. Just because it is not a basic need does not make it any less of a need. Most people meet this need with status symbols such as cars, homes, vacations, or electronic gadgets, and many meet the need with JEWELRY. Not everyone meets this need with jewelry but most of the people who darken our door do so to have that need fulfilled with jewelry. The customer that comes to us with a ring to be sized NEEDS that ring to fit so that they can wear it. It is not a want -- it is a need!
We must realize that just because jewelry and our custom/repair services meet a higher level need, it is still a NEED. It is just as much of a need as the food we eat and the air we breathe. Jewelry is not a want, a desire, or a luxury; it is a need. It is a need just as real as hunger, thirst, or a physical injury. When we can understand this need in our customers and see how we can fulfill it, we will then be able to overcome our objection to quoting higher prices.
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Impact Specialties Introducing our new form filling and repair management software We have developed this new software to be used in conjunction with our laser repair envelopes, cut sheets and cards. This software will enable jewelers to computerize their process. Impact Repairware features repair location tracking, parts and inventory database, customer database, special occasion tracking and a variety of reports. It is available in single user or multi user and features a watch repair and jewelry repair form. Impact Repairware can be used to provide estimates, appraisals and receipts.
For more information or to receive a FREE trial disk, visit us at http://www.isiprint.com or call Impact at 800 – 543 – 4264 Impact – For All Your Jewelry Store Form Needs
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<> <> <> <> PRODUCT REVIEW <> <> <> <>
REVERE ON GOLDSMITHING Project 7 HINGED BOX By ALAN REVERE
This 2-tape video set demonstrates in a clear and understandable manner the procedures involved in constructing jewelry. In particular, the soldering process is thoroughly explained. Although one may seldom make a silver pillbox, the techniques involved in this training exercise are applicable to many jewelry fabrication projects. The information on making hinges is worth the purchase price, and is just a small portion of what you will learn from viewing this video.
As Alan Revere demonstrates the creation of the pillbox, he explains a variety of methods to accomplish the work and shares his insight as to why he uses a particular technique. In addition, many tips and tricks are given. I was most appreciative of Mr. Revere’s commitment to precision workmanship, which is evident throughout this video presentation.
Alan Revere is one of the best at teaching traditional jewelry making techniques. After watching this video you will know why. I highly recommend this video to all jewelers and in particular anyone considering the JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler. I certainly wish I had viewed it before constructing the silver pillbox for my CMBJ exam.
For more information go to: http://www.revereacademy.com/
Brad Simon CMBJ
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<> <> <> <> QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence.
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I remember saying to my mentor, 'If I had more money, I would have a better plan.' He quickly responded, 'I would suggest that if you had a better plan, you would have more money.' You see, it's not the amount that counts; it's the plan that counts. Jim Rohn
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At least 80% of millionaires are self-made. That is, they started with nothing but ambition and energy, the same way most of us start. Brian Tracy
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Consider the postage stamp, my son. It secures success through its ability to stick to one thing till it gets there. Josh Billings
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Never give up. Never, never give up!. We shall go on to the end. Sir Winston Churchill
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Having chosen our course, without guile and with pure purpose, let us renew our trust in God, and go forward without fear and with manly hearts. Abraham Lincoln
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But one thing I do: Forgetting what is behind and straining toward what is ahead, I press on toward the goal. Apostle Paul - Philippians 3:13
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<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>
Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker; providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. onto; http://www.BWSimon.com
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> > > > IJO Conference < < < <
August 4 - 8, 2001 Bradney Simon will conduct seminars and Bench Demonstrations at the Independent Jewelers Organization Show in Salt Lake City.
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> > > > New Hampshire Jewelers Association < < < <
September 15, 2001 Bradney Simon will be presenting Trade Secrets – Tips Tricks and Techniques of a Master Jeweler. For more information call Paul Richter 603-437-2655
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> > > > Connecticut Jewelers Association < < < <
October 24, 2001 Bradney Simon will be presenting information from Run Your Shop Without It Running You, and Trade Secrets – Tips Tricks and Techniques of a Master Jeweler. For more information call Edward Isenberg 860-246-6566
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> > > > Two Great Seminars for Jewelers < < < <
=> Run Your Shop Without It Running You
This seminar will help jewelers increase profits by operating
=> Trade Secrets
Making and repairing jewelry encompasses only a few basic techniques. However, there are numerous tricks to use in mastering those techniques. In this interactive seminar you will learn tips, tricks, and techniques on jewelry repair, fabrication, and stone setting from a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler.
“No matter how much one knows it is always enlightening and stimulating to sit back and listen to a Master share his own personal tips. This is an excellent presentation.”
To see what others are saying about this seminar go to: http://www.bwsimon.com/Testimonials/TradeSecretsSeminar.htm
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> > > > Attend Both Seminars < < < < Run Your Shop on Friday and Trade Secrets on Saturday
Seattle WA < > September 7 & 8, 2001
Chicago IL < > September 28 & 29, 2001
For additional information on these seminars or to register go to http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/simon_sez.htm
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HAVE YOU INVENTED A NEW PRODUCT
Now you can have it evaluated by professional marketing experts.
MVI Marketing LTD., THE Market Intelligence Company for the Worldwide Gem and Jewelry Industries, is now offering its unique NEW PRODUCT EVALUATION (NPE) directly to bench jewelers and independent retailers.
MVI’s NPE will review your innovation in complete confidence and provide you with a report, honestly evaluating its commercial potential and marketing options.
MVI is the only business consulting organization working exclusively in the worldwide gem and jewelry industries. For more information about MVI’s New Product Evaluation visit us at www.mvimarketing.com or email us at info@mvimarketing.com
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<> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS <> <> <> <> <>
Here are some useful tips to help you find things in the studio
Finding A Lost Diamond By Alan Revere
Occasionally, a diamond falls on the floor and you cannot find it. In that case, turn off the lights and use a flashlight to spot it.
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<> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <>
When setting a colored center stone with side diamonds, make certain that the diamonds do not touch the center stone. If one of the diamonds comes loose and rubs against the center stone, it will cut a groove into the stone.
Setting diamonds touching each other can also create abrasions on them if they come loose.
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Increase the size of your polishing wheels from the standard 4” wheel to a 6” wheel. This will cut polishing time by over 1/3. Changing to a 6” wheel from an old wheel worn down to 2 ½” or 3” will cut polishing time to less than 1/2. This is due to the surface area of the wheels. Although spinning at the same speed, more surface area moves over the jewelry in the same amount of time there by polishing faster.
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Be careful of customers’ jewelry while in your possession. Always place it in the best safe you have. If robbed it is harder to replace customer’s jewelry than your own inventory. Even if the value is lower, the difficulty in finding suitable replacements adds to the importance of caring for the jewelry.
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A tip from Frank Goss Rough one side of a plastic blister package (the plastic packages that seemingly everything comes enclosed in) with 60-80 grit sand paper and then cut it into thin strips about 2-5mm wide and 4inches long. Apply polishing compound to the roughened side and use them to polish those pesky inside cut out areas. The plastic polishes flat and you can cut right into a corner and actually sharpen it. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Here are a couple of tips on soldering chains from
Roll new solder through a rolling mill until it is less then paper thin, then you can cut the solder into much smaller pieces.
Use a hypodermic needle with liquid soldering flux to pick up the solder (the tip must have a tiny drop of liquid at the end to pick up the solder) and then apply to the warmed spot to be soldered. On most chains, the solder is invisible and I find that the solder melts and flows quicker with this method and there is less cleanup when finished.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
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If you like Trade Secrets then you’ll love Trade Secret of the Day a bench tip provided daily Monday through Friday on various Internet web sites including: http://www.jewelrydealersnetwork.com/ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/orchid.htm
If you know of a jewelers’ bulletin board or discussion channel that you would like to see Trade Secret of the Day posted on, have the administrator contact me at Brad@BWSimon.com
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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
CEIA USA
CEIA specializes in the manufacture of Ultrasonic Cleaning Machines and Medium Frequency Induction Melters. CEIA Ultrasonics are designed using the latest technologies. The high efficiency of the generator and the absence of moving mechanical parts guarantee the machine an extremely long lifetime. All functions are microprocessor controlled which allows for adjustable cavitation, temperature and time. Call us for a free trial.
CEIA Induction melters have achieved widespread recognition in the field of precious metal casting. All functions of the furnaces are microcomputer controlled. Digitally adjustable power gives the possibility to optimize melting times. CEIA melters offer speed of melting, purity of the alloy and very low cooling water consumption.
CEIA USA Tel: 609-631-8802 Email: jbruns@ceia-usa.com Web Page http://www.ceia.net
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<> <> <> <> <> ON THE BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <>
The Art of Laser Welding By Bob Staley
Lasers are one of the hottest new items in the jewelry industry. This relatively unknown technology among jewelers and jewelry manufacturers just a few short years ago is now receiving great recognition in our industry today. One cannot open a trade magazine without seeing an ad for lasers. Almost all of the trade shows have at least one laser manufacturer exhibiting and demonstrating the latest in laser technology. So, what is so special about laser welding? How can lasers benefit your business? Is there a proper technique to use when laser welding most items?
With most lasers priced in the mid 20k to low 30k price range, laser welders are a major investment for most jewelry repair shops and jewelry manufacturers. Though they carry an expensive price tag, with a little practice you can do some amazing things with a laser welder that could easily justify their expense.
Laser technicians can hold the piece to be welded in their fingers while welding. They can weld, not braze or solder, jewelry items that one would not consider repairing by traditional torch/solder methods and they can usually obtain a superior weld. Lasers can weld dissimilar metals or metals with different metallurgical properties. So welding a platinum and 18 karat ring is no problem for a laser welder.
Recently a client of mine sent me a platinum and 18 karat wedding band that needed to be sized for their customer. The ring was sized with no problems and was promptly returned to the client. When my client received the ring, they were pleased that it could be done and then proceeded to tell me the problems they had trying to get the ring sized and subsequently making the sale. It seems that they had initially sent the ring to the manufacturer who returned the ring to them stating that it could not be sized and they would be happy to make their customer another ring in the appropriate size. That is when I received the ring. My lighthearted comment to my client upon hearing the story was, “I wish you had told me the ring ‘could not be sized’ before I sized it!” Sometimes laser welders can do the “can’t be done” jobs. This is one way laser welders can benefit your business.
Another benefit of laser welding is building customer loyalty. You will earn the “can do almost anything” reputation. You certainly will be the jeweler who can do what the guy down the street cannot do. It shows that you are innovative and up to date on the latest technology. That puts your clients in awe of your skill and prowess as a jeweler, goldsmith, and platinumsmith. Your image as being knowledgeable and in control of difficult or “impossible” repair situations serves to build a sense of trust and resultant comfort in your clients. Besides, lasers are a novelty, arouse curiosity, and attract attention. It can be good for business.
Since lasers literally weld at the speed of light, they are also beneficial because they can speed up the time it takes to repair jewelry items. There is no need to apply a protective fire coating to the repair item and no need to pickle the item so the time this process would normally take is saved.
Laser welders can benefit your business whether or not you own one. You can choose to invest in a welder or you can job out repairs that warrant laser welding to a service bureau or trade shop that offers laser welding. You can still be the jeweler who does the “can’t be done” jobs if you contract it out to a laser welding service. This is like contracting out other repairs to a trade shop or casting to a casting service.
Lasers, as many of you know from experience, can do some amazing things, but they are not a panacea. There are some repair jobs they cannot do and there can be potential problems with laser welding. Lasers can weld many metals, but they do not weld all metals. Thin gauge materials are more difficult to weld. Lasers tend to round or soften angles if you weld close to an edge. This requires extra build up and filing to restore the original shape of the piece welded. Unlike solder, laser welds do not flow through the seam of a joint. The weld is only as strong as the beam pulse penetrates the metal in the weld zone.
Sometimes welds fail. There are primarily three reasons why this occurs. First, the metal to be welded is not conducive to laser welding. One example is titanium alloys. Pure titanium welds nicely with a laser using an ambient field of argon or some other inert/ hydrogen free gas. Titanium alloys are usually not welded successfully and are typically brittle.
Secondly, contamination of the original or host metal prior to laser welding by solders may present problems. Most of you know what a problem lead solder is to gold items when attempting to repair the item by traditional torch methods. The same is true of laser welding where lead solder is present. The lead solder must be removed and if practical the contaminated section as well.
White gold solder on platinum and white gold items themselves can also be problematic when laser welding. The zinc content of the solder “boils out” during the process of laser welding the platinum or gold because the zinc melts at a much lower temperature and cools at a different rate than the host metal, resulting in microporosity and a potentially brittle or inferior weld. Microporosity can also occur when laser welding white gold in a zone that has no solder because of the zinc alloy in the white gold. Alloys with zinc, tin, or lead do not weld easily with a laser.
The third and probably the most common reason for weld failure, and the one most easily remedied, is failure to penetrate deep enough into the metal when welding. Surface welds can be deceiving. Unless you penetrate deep into the weld zone, the weld will be inferior and subject to failure.
Laser welding is as much an art and a personally developed technique as it is a science. Those of you who have been using a laser know this quite well. You also know there is little practical information available to the jewelry laser technician. Most laser educators and experts I have spoken with over the past couple of years offer little helpful information to jewelry laser welders because of their lack of familiarity with our industry particulars. Documented experimentation (parameter settings, adjustments for various metal types and thickness, with both good and bad results) along with idea sharing from others in our field are probably the best two suggestions to gaining a better understanding of laser welding. Experience, as in many other arenas, is still the best teacher. Experiment. Document. Tell others what you have done. There are basically no hard and fast rules. If a technique or parameter setting works for you, great!
Laser welding is a new technology that has already made a significant impact upon the future of our industry. Lasers are evolving into the next generation models with the advent of pulse shaping, internal modems, and other advances. Though much is still to be learned about technique, lasers are extremely user friendly. Develop you own technique and share some of your tips and insights with others. Your business can benefit from owning a laser or by using the services of someone who does own one. Lasers can do many repairs that jewelers traditionally turn down as a “can’t do” item. Let lasers help you in building your reputation, your business, and ultimately your bottom line.
Bob Staley is owner of B. Staley, Goldsmiths/Precision Laser Welding. He has 23 years experience as a jeweler and goldsmith and over 2200 hours experience as a laser welder.
If you have questions concerning lasers and laser welding or if you have a laser tip to share, contact me at bstaley2@bellsouth.net or you can call me toll free @877.535.9938 or in the metro Atlanta 770.382.8268.
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<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>
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Call 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web http://www.sefindings.com
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Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/
<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <> Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many excellent Jewelers from around the world. Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels, Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More. List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application and you will receive: ** ** 30 DAYS FREE MEMBERSHIP ** **
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Place Your Ad Here Over 1,000 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will remain in our permanent archive at www.BWSimon.com
For Information and rates on placing an Ad Go to: http://bwsimon.com/E-BENCH/E-BenchSponsors.htm
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We are on the World Wide Web. A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.
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Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without
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Copyrighted, 2001, B W Simon. All rights reserved.
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