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<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
January 2001
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU A feature article on shop management issues
QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING Motivational insights from some of the best
SIMON SEZ See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person
TRADE SECRETS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
ON THE BENCH Learn a new technique or brush up on basic skills with this
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<> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU <> <>
‘Twas the Month After Christmas
‘Twas the month after Christmas, and all through the Shop.
When out in the store there arose such a clatter.
Then, what to his wondering eyes should appear?
More rapid than eagles he flew.
In all the dirt that lay on the floor.
Laying a finger aside of the broom.
Then on to the polisher, down into its deeps.
The sweeps were all gathered, the job was complete.
The shop is now done, the sweeping concluded.
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Impact Specialties Introducing our new form filling and repair management software We have developed this new software to be used in conjunction with our laser repair envelopes, cut sheets and cards. This software will enable jewelers to computerize their process. Impact Repairware features repair location tracking, parts and inventory database, customer database, special occasion tracking and a variety of reports. It is available in single user or multi user and features a watch repair and jewelry repair form. Impact Repairware can be used to provide estimates, appraisals and receipts. For more information or to receive a FREE trial disk, visit us at http://www.isiprint.com or call Impact at 800 – 543 – 4264 Impact – For All Your Jewelry Store Form Needs
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<> <> <> <> QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
The important thing is not that we can live on hope alone, Harvey Milk
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Write it on your heart that every day is the best day of the year. Ralph Waldo Emerson
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Keough’s Commandments for Losing:
1. Quit taking risk. 2. Be content. 3. Before you make any move, always ask yourself, “What will the investors think?” 4. Avoid change. 5. Be totally inflexible – stay on the course, no matter what. 6. Rely totally on research and experts to make decisions for you. 7. Be more concerned with status than service. 8. Concentrate on your competitor instead of your customers. 9. Put yourself first in everything you do, ahead of your customers and suppliers. 10. Memorize the formula “TGE – That’s Good Enough” to set a ceiling on quality.
Then add a bonus rule 1. Find a way to rationalize the slowing growth. Don Keough, CEO, Coca-Cola
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Dreams plus desire to achieve them equals success. Robbie Romieser
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Consider it pure joy, my brothers, whenever you face trials of many kinds, because you know that the testing of your faith develops perseverance. Perseverance must finish its work so that you may be mature and complete, not lacking anything. The Bible – James 1:2-4
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<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>
Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker; providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
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> > > > JCK Show - Las Vegas < < < <
May 31, 2001 Bradney Simon will be speaking at the JCK Las Vegas Show For more information and to register contact JCK Shows: http://jck.expoplanner.com/vegas.html
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Two Great Seminars for Jewelers
=> Run Your Shop Without It Running You
This seminar will help jewelers increase profits by operating
=> Trade Secrets
Making and repairing jewelry encompasses only a few basic techniques. However, there are numerous tricks to use in mastering those techniques. In this interactive seminar you will learn tips, tricks, and techniques on jewelry repair, fabrication, and stone setting from a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler.
> > > > Attend Both Seminars < < < < Run Your Shop on Friday and Trade Secrets on Saturday
Atlanta GA < > March 9 & 10, 2001
Oakland CA < > March 23 & 24, 2001
Denver CO < > April 6 & 7, 2001
Washington DC < > May 4 & 5, 2001
Seattle WA < > August 2001
Chicago IL < > September 2001
For additional information on these seminar go to http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/SimonSez.htm
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HAVE YOU INVENTED A NEW PRODUCT
Now you can have it evaluated by professional marketing experts.
MVI Marketing LTD., THE Market Intelligence Company for the Worldwide Gem and Jewelry Industries, is now offering its unique NEW PRODUCT EVALUATION (NPE) directly to bench jewelers and independent retailers.
MVI’s NPE will review your innovation in complete confidence and provide you with a report, honestly evaluating its commercial potential and marketing options.
MVI is the only business consulting organization working exclusively in the worldwide gem and jewelry industries. For more information about MVI’s New Product Evaluation visit us at www.mvimarketing.com or email us at info@mvimarketing.com
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<> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <>
Pearl Gluing Tweezers Drill a 1mm hole through one jaw of a pair of self locking tweezers, and glue a leather or felt pad to the inside of the other jaw. When gluing a pearl, place the pad over the pearl and the other jaw under the mounting to clamp the pearl in place while the glue dries. The post on earrings can be placed through the hole in the jaw to clamp pearl earrings.
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Before beginning to set any stone remove all tools from your lap tray. Even a diamond can be chipped it if hits a hard steel tool when dropped.
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When channel-setting stones into a carved channel, undercut the wall on the outside of the curve. Then, secure the stones by hammering or bending the inside channel wall over the stones. Although some mounting designs will not allow you to set in this manner it is more efficient than trying to secure the stones with the metal from the outside wall. It is easier to stretch metal, than to compress it. When metal is forced inward in a curve, it tends to buckle, or spring back. In addition, pressing in on the stones to tighten them may force the stones together causing them to chip.
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Use a small ball of steel wool to apply oxidation solutions to large areas.
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Grind a bevel on the end of the shank on all your burs. Then they will be easier to insert into your flex-shaft handpiece when using.
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Put lightweight machine oil in a plastic dispenser bottle with a needle tip, the kind made to dispense liquid flux. This makes it easy to apply the small amount of oil needed on omega backs and other hinges, the slide safety on bangle bracelets, tongue catches, and anywhere else you need a small amount of oil.
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To help hold wedding sets together in perfect alignment while soldering together, hold the rings together in your fingers. Next, place a small amount of super glue between the rings at their tops. Then, clamp the rings as you normally would and solder the back of the shanks together. If any glue remains when finished soak in acetone to remove. Note: before performing this procedure make certain your soldering area is well ventilated. When heated, super glue will emit toxic vapors.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
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<> <> <> <> <> ON THE BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <>
Royal Flush A sign on the side of a plumber’s truck read, “In our business a Flush is better than a Full-House.” Thankfully this is not the type of ‘flush’ this article is about. Instead, this article is about a style of setting small stones that has become very popular in recent years.
The stones are set down into the metal without beads or prongs. The tables of the stones are set even with the metal surface in a modified bezel. This is where the name ‘Flush Set’ is derived from, as the stones are set flush with the metal surface.
Flush setting is an advanced setting procedure. Precise craftsmanship must be executed throughout the process to accomplish the desired look.
First, lay out the stones in the desired pattern, and mark the metal in the center of each stone. Rubbing beeswax over the metal surface and placing the stones table down will help in positioning the stones.
Next, drill a hole through the metal using a small drill bit (less than 1/2 the diameter of the stone) on each of your center marks. The more accurate you drill, the less work you will have to do later. Then, inspect your work to make certain the holes are all precisely drilled where the center of each stone is to be.
If any holes are off center, you will need to enlarge the hole to center it. Use a krause bur to cut the side of the hole towards the center of the stone. Once all the holes are centered, re-drill the hole with a larger drill bit. Use a drill bit 2/3 the diameter of the stone, and drill through the metal exactly where the center of the stone is to be.
Then cut azures on the backside of the metal to cleanup the holes. See the article in E-BENCH Volume 1 Issue 11, November 2000 for information on cutting azures.
To cut the seat for the stones begin with a straight side setting bur one size smaller than the diameter of the stone. For example, if your stone is 2.5 mm in diameter select the 2.3 mm bur. Cut the seat to a depth that when set the stone’s table will be even with the metal.
Then, use a hart bur the same diameter or slightly smaller than the stone. Carefully undercut the seat to allow the stone to snuggly fit into the seat. Begin by holding the bur at a 45-degree angle and cut into one side of the seat. Then with a steady hand, straighten the bur to a 90-degree angle undercutting the opposite side of the seat. The shank of the bur must be held precisely at a 90-degree angle to the metal surface or else the seat will be cut on an angle and the stone cannot be set straight. Undercutting the seat in this manner allows you to leave extra metal above the girdle of the stone to use in tightening it.
Cutting the seat is the most important part of this setting procedure. Cut the seat too large and you will not be able to tighten the stone without marring the surface of the metal. Cut the seat too small and you may chip the stone trying to force it into its seat.
Next, lay the stone into its seat and press it into place with a brass pusher. The stone should fit snuggly in its seat.
Using a small highly polished burnisher rub metal down and over the edge of the stone. Hold the burnisher at a 45-degree angle and rub around the top edge of the hole. Due to the process of tightening the stone; some setters refer to this setting technique as ‘Rub Down Setting’ instead of ‘Flush Setting’.
Some jewelers use a hammer and punch or a hammer handpiece with their flex-shaft to hammer the metal down over the stone. As a result, this setting technique is sometimes referred to as ‘Hammer Set’. If you use this technique be certain to hold the punch at a 45 degree angle to the metal surface and tap lightly ONLY on the edge of the metal until it is worked down over the stone.
Do not attempt to tighten the stone by hammering on the metal surface forcing metal over the stone. This causes a dip in the surface surrounding the stone, resulting in an unsatisfactory appearance. Burnishing the metal over the stone is the preferred method of tightening the stone. If you cut the seat properly you will not need to use a hammer.
This setting procedure should result in the stone set down in the metal with a highly polished beveled rim surrounding the stone. If you play your hand right, you can trump this technique and deal yourself a truly Royal Flush Set Stone.
================================================= <> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>
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+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Jewelry Dealers World Trade Net
<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <> Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many excellent Jewelers from around the world. Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels, plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More. List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application and you will receive: ** ** 30 DAYS FREE MEMBERSHIP ** ** +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Place Your Ad Here Over 900 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will remain in our permanent archive at www.BWSimon.com For Information and rates on placing an Ad Go to: http://bwsimon.com/E-BENCH/E-BenchSponsors.htm ================================================= <> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <> Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site, <> <> <> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <> <> <> We value every subscriber and respect your privacy. We do not sell, rent, or otherwise disclose our list of subscribers To subscribe, send an E-Mail with Subscribe as the subject If you do not wish to continue receiving this newsletter send an If you change your e-mail address PLEASE let us know. Each +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided with the understanding that the author or publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests, Copyrighted, 2000, B W Simon. All rights reserved. <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
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