<> <>  <>  <>  <>  <>  <>   E-BENCH   <>  <>  <>  <>  <>  <> <>

 

                The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers

 

October 2000
Volume 1 Issue 10                                      circulation over 2,200

 

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<> <>  <>  <>  <>    TABLE OF CONTENTS    <>  <>  <>  <> <> 

RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU

A feature article on shop management issues

QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING

Motivational insights from some of the best

SIMON SEZ

See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person

TRADE SECRETS

Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
and more productive

ON THE BENCH

Learn a new technique or brush up on basic skills with this
feature article.

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<> <>  RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU  <> <>

Bench Ph.D.

Do you have your bench Ph.D.?  No, I don’t  mean a doctorate from some university.  What I am asking is: Do you have your bench Piled Higher and Deeper?  Is it piled high and deep with tools, parts, debris, or other clutter?

To maximize productivity it is important to have an organized bench.  A cluttered, disorganized bench is an unproductive bench.  The time you spend looking for a tool or piece of jewelry to work on, is time spent NOT WORKING.

An organized bench may very well be a bench full of tools and jobs.  However, those tools are organized in a manner that when you need a tool you can reach for it without stopping your work.  If you want a tool and you reach for it, and it is not there, you have to stop your work to look for the tool.  The clutter has affected your productivity.

Your bench is not properly organized, if you cannot reach without looking and pick up a tool that you use everyday, or find a tool that you use less often in the first place you look.  To say your bench is messy because you are busy or creative are just excuses for not putting the tool away when you are finished with it, or not taking the time to organize your jobs and tools.  Every minute you spend organizing your jobs and keeping your bench straight is multiplied in time saved doing the work.

Organizing your tools is not just a matter of having a place for everything and everything in its place.  It requires putting tools in an order that is meaningful to you, the person who uses them.  If your bench is disorganized, you may finish many repairs because you are fast and/or good, however not as many as you COULD have finished, if your bench was properly organized.

There is no set pattern to organizing your bench.  Each jeweler should arrange their tools in a manner that is logical to them.  This arrangement will be dependent upon:

> The types of tools used most frequently

> The type of work most often performed

> The personal mannerism of the jeweler

Position tools in a manner that requires little, if any, extra movement in order to retrieve them and put them away. In order to do this you must understand your workspace in relationship to the movement of your arms and hands.  Watch how you move when you work and notice the natural paths your body, arms, and hands take.

There are few hard and fast rules for organizing the tools on your bench.  However, several general guidelines can be helpful and make your bench more practical, convenient, and comfortable.  Use the following suggestions to arrange your bench to suit your situation and manner of work.

A jeweler working at a bench has a very different workspace than someone who works at a desk.  When working at a desk the workspace is the desktop.  Here papers are worked on and jobs are processed.  However, for a bench jeweler, the workspace is primarily the bench pin.  A small portion of the bench top is also used at times for workspace, and needs to be kept clear.  The remainder of the bench top (the majority of it) is used to organize your tools and jobs to be processed.  A properly organized jeweler’s bench does not have a bench top cleared of all tools as a desk. The bench is different from a desk, the work is different, the tools are different, and different principles need to be applied in organizing it.

A rack for pliers can be mounted on the front edge of your bench centered in the path your hand moves to begin work.  Then when you move your hand from its normal resting position to work at your bench pin it can pick up a pair of pliers on the way.  When work is finished you can put the pliers back on the rack as your hand moves away from the bench pin.  If the rack is properly placed the pliers are picked up and put away with out effort.

Your favorite file or hammer can be placed in the tool tray just above your lap tray.  Place it right next to the natural resting position of your hand while resting on your lap tray.  Then, when needed, take hold of it while bringing your hand up to your work.  When finished, put it away as you place your hand down to rest.

A saw frame can be placed on a hook on the leg of your bench.  The handle of the saw frame is at the exact spot your hand reaches when you place your arm comfortably at your side.

Often jewelers make the mistake of organizing similar tools together such as hanging all pliers together on one rack.  This is a big mistake.  Pliers used everyday are mixed together with ones you do not use often.  This makes it harder to find the ones you need.  In addition, pliers that are seldom used take up valuable space near the bench pin.  Then, tools that are used everyday are relegated to a drawer or stored further away making them harder to get to. 

A better alternative is to have two smaller racks for pliers.  One near the bench pin for pliers used everyday and a second rack placed further away, on the side of the bench for example.  The same applies for all types of tools.  Place the tools used most often closer to your bench pin, where you do your work.  Place the other tools further away, still within reach, but not quite as convenient.

Tools used less than once a week should be stored in the back of drawers or in the bottom drawers.  If your bench is already full, these tools can be stored on shelves or storage units next to your bench.  Shelves or cabinets mounted on the wall above your bench can also be used.  You want to be able to get to them easily, but you do not want to clutter your bench with tools that you seldom use.

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<>  <>  <>  <>  QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING  <>  <>  <>  <>

Until we can manage time, we can manage nothing else.

Peter Drucker

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Once you have mastered time, you will understand how true it is that most people overestimate what they can accomplish in a year — and underestimate what they can achieve in a decade!

Tony Robbins

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Time is more value than money.  You can get more money, but you cannot get more time.

Jim Rohn

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Time is the coin of your life.  It is the only coin you have, and only you can determine how it will be spent.  Be careful lest you let other people spend it for you.

Carl Sandburg

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Time can’t be managed.  But what can be managed are our activities and how we “spend” time.  And all the experts agree: managing our activities begins with planning.  So by knowing what’s important for us – planning our work and working our plan – we become wise managers.

Anonymous

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Anything that is wasted effort represents wasted time.  The best management of our time thus becomes linked inseparably with the best utilization of our efforts.

Ted Engstrom

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He who every morning plans the transactions of the day and follows out that plan, carries a thread that will guide him through the labyrinth of the most busy life.

Victor Hugo

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Be very careful, then, how you live – not as unwise but as wise, making the most of every opportunity.

The Bible – Ephesians 5:15 –16

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<>  <>  <>  <>  <>   SIMON SEZ SEMINARS   <>  <>  <>  <>  <>

Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker; he provides Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.  For information on having him speak for your organization visit us on the web at http://www.BWSimon.com

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We are in the process of developing our 2001 schedule.  If you would like Brad to speak in your area contact him today.

 mailto:Brad@BWSimon?subject=Seminar Schedule

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<>  <>  <>  <>    Attend A Seminar for FREE    <>  <>  <>  <>

Host a Simon Sez Seminar in your area and you and one additional employee can attend FREE!

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             >>>  Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel  <<<

Ask questions, share tips, take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many excellent jewelers from around the world.

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   <>  <>  <>  <>  <>    TRADE SECRETS    <>  <>  <>  <>  <>

Use a small ball of steel wool to apply oxidation solutions to large areas.

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Use a yellow highlight marker to color the label on yellow gold paste solder.  Then, while working it will be easy to distinguish between the tubes of yellow and white paste solder.

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You should always take great care when filing that you do not remove too much metal.  It is impossible to replace the metal removed.  When filing to remove excess solder, often the mistake is made of filing too much resulting in thinning the metal.  Stop filing when the outline of the solder is just barely visible.  Sanding to prepare the metal for polishing will remove the remaining solder.  If you continue to file until all evidence of the solder is removed the metal will be too thin when sanded.

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Use a steady, slow to medium speed when using your flex shaft.  Flex-shafts can operate at speeds up to 14,000 rpm.  Burs and drills should not approach this speed while cutting metal.  You should operate the flex-shaft at no more than medium speed, and The Larger The Bur The Slower The Speed.  High Speed burs are a description of the type of steel used and not indicative of the speed used to operate.

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Be careful when retipping any stone with points such as pear, marquise, and princess shape stones.  Metal and stones expand and contract by different amounts when heated and cooled.  A problem develops during retipping if solder is allowed to flow completely around the point of a stone.  The solder will contract as it cools squeezing the point.  This may cause it to break off.

The best method to retip a stone with a point is to make a cap in the shape of the prong.  Then with a minimum of solder, attach the cap to the top of the prong.  Do not allow solder to flow under the stone, completely encircling the stone point.  If the prong is worn to the place that it needs more work than just a cap, it is best to remove the stone and replace the crown or prong.

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Spray paint the handles of your hand files.  Use a different color for each cut.  For example, black for #2 cut, red for #4 cut, blue for #6 cut.  Then you can quickly find the one you are looking for. 

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Use bent chain nose pliers to set stones with instead of regular chain nose pliers.  Then, your hand and the body of the pliers will be out of your line of sight allowing you a better view of the work you are doing.

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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it

in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

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  <>  <>  <>  <>    PRODUCT REVIEW    <>  <>  <>  <> 

Jewelers of America Masters’ Mentoring Series

These high quality educational videos and accompanying booklet feature J A Certified Master Bench Jewelers.  Each video teaches one specific skill or technique, ideally suited for the busy bench jeweler who wishes to learn or brush-up on certain aspects of their work.  Each training video is short and inexpensive, but packed with excellent instruction.

Flush Setting Round Gemstones, features J A’s first Certified Master Bench Jeweler Tom Weishaar.  He gives clear, concise, and easy to follow instructions of this more advanced setting technique.  I highly recommend it for all bench jewelers.

To order call Jewelers of America at 1.800.223.0673

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<>  <>  <>  <>  <>       ON THE BENCH    <>  <>  <>  <>  <>  <>

Set 'Em Straight

Over the past decade, channel setting has grown in popularity.  Setting small diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and even emeralds into channels has become commonplace in most shops.  Hardly a week goes by without some form of repair being performed on a channel set piece.  The following tips will hopefully make this work a little easier.

When channel setting it is of utmost importance to cut a precise seat. If the stone fits loosely in the seat it will be difficult to tighten and problems will develop during the setting process.

When channel setting always undercut the same side of the channel on each stone.  Alternating the undercut side may cause the stones to set unevenly when finished.  Before cutting the seats mark one of the walls of the channel with a felt tip maker. Then you will be certain to always undercut the same side of the channel.  This is particularly important if you are interrupted while cutting the seats.

When setting a straight row channel set band, place the ring on a ring mandrel and tap the sidewall over the stones with a hammer handpiece on your flex-shaft.  Rest the mandrel on your bench pin and slowly rotate it while hammering the channel edge down.  This will help keep the channel wall even and smooth.  Placing cellophane tape over the stones will hold them in place while hammering.

When channel setting square stones, a tapered square hole must be cut to accommodate the pavilion of the stone.  This can be accomplished by first using a hart bur held perpendicular to the mounting to cut the four-corners.  Then use a small wheel bur to remove the metal between the corner cuts.

When setting stones into a curved channel undercut the wall on the outside of the curve.  Then, secure the stones by hammering or bending the inside channel wall over the stones.  When metal is forced inward in a curve, it tends to buckle, or spring back making it difficult to tighten the stones.  It is always easier to stretch metal in an outward direction, than to compress it inward.  In addition, pressing in on the stones to tighten them may force the stones together causing them to chip.

Some mounting designs will not allow you to set stones in this manner such as a channel that is next to, or circles a center crown.  In these cases, under cut the channel on the center crown side.  Then carefully work down the outside wall to secure the stones.

If a channel is too wide for the stones you are setting tap down on the top of the channel wall without the stones in place.  This will spread the metal closing the channel.  Then anneal the mounting to soften the channel wall prior to setting the stones.

To channel set stones in a solid plate first lay out the stones on the plate.  Then cut a seat slightly smaller than the stones into the plate.  Next remove the metal from between the stones with a wheel bur forming the channel in the plate.  Polish the inside of the channel and set the stones using normal channel setting procedures.

To tighten stones in a channel set band, use a pair of pliers with one ½ round jaw and one flat jaw.  Place the ½ round jaw on the inside of the ring and squeeze down on the top of the channel with the flat jaw.  Using the ½ round jaw on the inside will prevent nicking and marring the inside of the ring.

To smooth the channel walls on small channel set stones a roller can be made from an old milligram wheel. Carefully grind away the metal ridges that form the beads, leaving a smooth channel around the outside of the wheel, then polish to a high shine.   Place this modified wheel in its handle and roll it over the top of the channel wall in the same manner you would use to milligram an edge. The result is a smooth edge of metal burnished tight against the stones.

When channel setting it is best to intentionally cut the seat too small.  Then, gradually enlarge the seat to fit the stone.  This will help keep you from cutting too large a seat.

A closed back channel is most secure.  If an open back channel is used, make certain there are support bars between the channel walls or support circles under the stones.   Without these the walls of an open backed channel can spread apart over time causing the stones to come loose or fall out.

When channel setting file the tops of the channel wall at a 45-degree angle.   Then, hammer the channel wall at this angle and the metal will form down and out over the stones.

Before setting, color the inside of the channel with a felt tip marker.  With the dark color as a background it will be easier to see the diamonds and to keep their spacing even.  When finished setting dip in alcohol to remove the ink.

To re-build the top of a worn channel, solder a thin strip of gold matching the color and karat of the jewelry to the top of the channel.  Then file to shape.  An easy method to make the small strip for re-building a channel is to roll a piece of round wire through a rolling mill once or twice.

Before re-building a worn channel top, examine the mounting carefully.  Often the sides of the channel are just as worn as the top.  To only re-build the top will result in an unsatisfactory repair.  Rather than soldering a strip to the top, you may need to solder an "L" shaped piece of gold to the channel.  Sometimes the only remedy is to replace the channel section or the entire mounting.

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For Information and rates on placing an Ad

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Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without
warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied.  This
publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative
information concerning the subject matter covered.  It is provided
with the understanding that the author or publisher is not
engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional
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the services of a competent professional person should be
sought.

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For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests,
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Copyrighted, 2000, B W Simon.  All rights reserved.