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<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
March 2000
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> LEADERS EDGE QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING FEATURED PRODUCT TRADE SECRETS SIMON SEZ ON THE BENCH READERS RESPOND EMPLOYMENT NEWS <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * LEADERS EDGE * * * Take-In not Taken In last month's article, we looked at the importance of the take-in process. This month we will look at the essential, but often over looked step of inspection the customer's jewelry. When inspecting the customer's jewelry always use 10-power magnification. A loupe is adequate, but a microscope is preferred as your hands are then free to check stones with What needs to be repaired? Did our store sell the jewelry originally? Has our store ever repaired it? Has anyone else repaired it? Is it an heirloom? What do you know about the jewelry? Are the stones clarity-enhanced? Are they genuine? What type of metal is it? How is the jewelry worn? Every day? Only on special occasions? Do all parts of your inspection in view of your customer and explain to them what you are doing and why. This is important in establishing a high comfort level, especially if the customer is new to your store. Many customers are apprehensive about leaving their jewelry. Your knowledge and professionalism at take-in will ease their mind. There are five areas you need to inspect on the jewelry. They are the stones, the prongs, the metal, the condition of the jewelry, and the area for repair. STONES A sign in my dentist office reads; You do not have to brush and floss all your teeth; Only the ones you want to keep! The same applies to take-ins. You do not have to check every stone, just the ones you do not want to replace. Inspect for any missing Stones. Inspect each stone for tightness; if any are loose, notify the customer and write it on the envelope. Any repair will require tightening the stones at an additional charge. Inspect each stone for defects: chipping, abrading, or breakage. Notify the customer immediately, if you find any of these conditions and make a notation on the envelope. Count all stones and measure them to a tenth of a millimeter. Explain to the customer that this measurement helps identify their stone. Check for a laser inscription on the girdle. If one is there, write the number on the envelope. Customers sometimes purchase laser-inscribed diamonds because they fear stone switching. You recognizing and referencing the number will ease their mind about leaving it with you. If you sold the stone this re-enforces the importance of the laser inscribed number and helps for future sales. Inspect each stone for clarity enhancement. Check color stones for oiling, opticon, or other fillers. Look for any enhancements that might be unstable. Check stones that appear to be diamonds for fracture filling or laser drilling. Fracture-filled diamonds present a difficult situation. Heat from a torch and ultrasonic or steam cleaning can damage or completely remove the filling. PRONGS Next, inspect the prongs securing the stones. Frequently a ring brought in for another type of repair also needs prongs retipped. Any prong worn to less than one-fourth the original thickness must be retipped or the security of the stone is in jeopardy. Identify all worn prongs on the envelope, tell the customer the possible consequences of worn prongs, and encourage them to examine the prongs under magnification. This is good business; it not only increases shop revenue but also saves you from having to replace a lost stone. If the customer declines retipping after being informed of worn prongs, state on the envelope the condition of the prongs, the customer's desires, and that you will Often salespeople do not suggest these additional repairs because they do not want to appear to be gouging the customer for unnecessary repairs. This can be avoided if handled properly at the time of take-in. When providing an explanation always keep the attitude that you are only looking out for their best interest. The customer is more likely to feel they are being taken advantage of, if they are called a day or two later by the bench jeweler, informing them they need additional repairs, rather than explained properly at take-in. METAL While you are examining the jewelry look for any hallmark or trademark and quality stamp identifying the type of metal. Do not assume the quality stamp is always correct. Visually inspect the metal. Does the appearance and feel of the metal agree with the stamp? Is there plating wearing off with base metal showing through? Does the stamp and your inspection agree with what the customer stated? Use a metal tester if you have any doubts. CONDITION OF THE JEWELRY Inspect the condition of the piece of jewelry. Are there nicks in the metal or deep scratches? Are there any cracks? Are previous solder joints visible? Is engraving or special finishes worn off? If there is enamel is it abraded, chipped, or falling out? Examine the condition of the shank. Is it worn? Does it need to be re-shanked, rather than just sized? Examine the jewelry for previous repairs. Were they done poorly? Will they effect your ability to repair it properly at this time? Is there soft solder on the jewelry? Can it be removed so that the repair can be accomplished? Many times items cannot be repaired properly because of previous repairs. Note on the envelope the current condition of the piece; this protects you from accusations that you damaged the jewelry during repair. If the piece of jewelry is badly worn, or poorly repaired, suggest replacing the mounting. Owners of old worn jewelry are great prospects for remounts or custom-designed jewelry. AREA FOR REPAIR Carefully examine each area needing repair, and consider all factors involved in the work before accepting and pricing the job. If your inspection raises doubts or questions about the eventual success of the work, ask the manager or bench jeweler to look at the piece. Sometimes it is advantageous to turn down a repair job rather than assume future responsibility, disappoint the customer or chance damaging the piece. It might be better, for example, to refer the owner of a new ring with one broken prong to the place it was purchased. The manufacturer may repair or replace it; if you repair it, the customer may link you with any problems developing in the future. In addition, do not take in jewelry for repair if the work is beyond the ability of your jeweler or the outside contractor you use. <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING * * * You can always tell if you are on the road to success; It's all up hill. You cannot coast to the top. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ You see things as they are and say "Why", +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others have labored hard for. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Anyone who stops learning is old, whether twenty or eighty. Anyone who keeps learning today is young. The greatest thing in life is to keep your mind young! +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Too many people are concerned about keeping their jobs - ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Go to the ant, you sluggard; consider its ways and be wise! A little sleep, a little slumber, a little folding of the hands to rest - and poverty will come on you like a bandit and scarcity like an armed man. <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * FEATURED PRODUCT * * * Run Your Shop Without It Running You Audio Cassette Tape Set Hear master storyteller Bradney W. Simon in this two-hour live presentation. Side 1 From Fee to Shinning Fee Side 2 Take In not Taken Side 3 It's About Time Side 4 You Can Lead A Horse to Water, But… Only $29.95 (US dollars) Send your order and check to: * * * TRADE SECRETS * * * Be careful when placing jewelry in envelopes. Often jewelry is damaged further while stored in the envelopes. Do not force envelopes into a box for storage. This may bend or dent the jewelry. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If a customer comes in to pick-up their jewelry, and leaves another item for repair, use a new envelope for the new job. Do not cross out the instructions on the original envelope and write in new instructions next to it. It does not allow you to record an adequate description of the new piece of jewelry. Reusing an envelope eliminates the record of the original repair for your permanent file. This also causes confusion in the shop, possibly resulting in the wrong repairs being performed. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Always apply solder to one side of the joint, and then pull the solder through the joint by heating from the other side. If you apply solder all around the joint a weak joint may result from the solder only flowing at the surface and not completely through the joint. This is referred to as a "cold solder joint". It is particularly important to watch for this when soldering thicker prices of metal together, such as heavy men's ring shanks. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ There are three forces that pulls solder when it is in a liquid state. The greatest of these is heat. When solder melts it will flow most readily to the hottest area. The next is capillary action. Solder when melted to a liquid state will readily flow through a tight fitting seam. The third, which has the least effect, is gravity. Solder will flow down through a seam easier than up through a seam. Always have a tight fitting seam, and when possible place the solder on the top of the seam and pull the solder down through the joint by applying heat to the underneath side of the joint. Then you will have all three forces working for you. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ When pave or channel setting, place a strip of double stick tape in your stone tray. Then stones can be laid out on the tape in the same order as in the mounting. The tape will keep them in order even if the tray is bumped. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Dust the mounting and stones with talcum powder when bead or pave setting. This will eliminate the glare, providing a better view of the metal beads and stones. You can make a "dusting bag" by placing talcum powder in the center of a cloth handkerchief. Use enough powder to form a ball about the size of a golf ball. Secure the loose ends with a rubber band. The banded end will serve as a handle. Tapping the ball of powder once or twice against the mounting will provide sufficient powder on the mounting. <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * SIMON SEZ * * * See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person at the following Events. Run Your Shop Without It Running You <><> All-Day Seminars This brand new all-day seminar will be offered in 22 cities during 2000. This seminar will help retail jewelers increase profits by operating an efficient jewelry repair shop. It contains innovative and practical information that you can use in your store. Topics include: Pricing, Take-In Procedures, Productivity in the Shop, Employee Development, and Much More. Charleston, South Carolina <><> March 4 Plus 15 other cities throughout the year. For a complete list of Dates and Locations or for additional information on these seminars contact: We would like to Thank the following Sponsors Southeastern Findings & Namano Gesswein Co, Inc. Southern Jewelry News Rio Grande Impact Specialties, Inc. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Other Speaking Engagements Kansas Jewelers Association <><> April 1 & 2 Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker and provides Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. For information on having him speak for your organization send an e-mail to mstrjwlr@spartanburg.net <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * ON THE BENCH * * * Chain Reaction Repairing broken chains is one of the two most often preformed jobs in the shop. (Sizing rings is the other) The difficulty of chain repair lies in the fact that the chain is made up of fine wires. These wires heat up quickly when trying to melt the solder. Two problems develop. The first is if the wire link gets too hot, it will quickly melt as you are trying to solder. When a link melts it forms a small ball of gold fused onto the next link. This of course melts forming a larger ball on the next link. This then melts forming a larger ball, etc. It is a chain reaction. The other problem is, if too long a section of chain is heated the solder will flow from one link to the next. From there, the solder will flow to the next link on down the chain. It is that chain reaction thing again. This will cause several links to solder together forming a stiff place in the chain. Both of these reactions by the chain result in an un-satisfactory repair. Jewelers have devised many ways to over-come these problems. They include coating the chain with an anti-flux such as white out, and covering the chain with a heat sink such as a washer or razor blade. My preferred method is to use paste solder and to master the art of torch control. The method to repair a chain using paste solder is as follows. Inspect the Chain Remove Damaged Links Cut End Links Re-Assemble the Chain Add the Solder Heat the Chain Clean the Chain Polish the Chain To polish, lay the chain across your bench pin. Then hold the chain down tight with your thumb and index finger. With a bristle brush in your flex shaft polish at medium speed the area of chain between your thumb and finger. Polish the chain little by little in this manner. It is a safe and efficient means to accomplish the task. If properly repaired, your customer will return with a different chain for you to repair, and then a third. Eventually they will return to purchase jewelry. Now, that is chain reaction we can all live with. <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * READERS RESPOND * * * I just received my second issue of E-Bench and can hardly wait for #3. The tips found in Trade Secrets are genuine gems. I enjoyed the first issue of your E-Bench. Some good ideas! Been doing jewelry work almost my whole life, & can always use some new ideas. I will think about how some of the tricks I've learned, & pass them on to your readers. Very good idea! I applaud your contribution to our trade education. I'm an enthusiastic member of Network LA a M.J.S.A supported group of LA jewelry factories and related businesses. We support competitiveness with technology, education, and soon, government employment grants. My boss does Kraftwerks.... http://www.thekraftwerks.com/ That event is dedicated to a similar concept applied in PM West's own semi commercial way. Thanks again for a good idea our trade needs these days. The more we know... <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * EMPLOYMENT NEWS * * * Bench Jeweler Employment News is a FREE service for Retail Jewelry Stores and Individual Jewelers. No Employment Agency Requests Accepted. For your free listing submit your request in 50 words or less to E-BENCH at mstrjwlr@spartanburg.net and type Employment News as the subject. Your request will be printed in the next issue. To keep this area current, your listing will be printed only once. If the position is not filled, you will need to re-submit your request to be printed in the next issue. This is for shop personal ONLY. Request for sales or store manager positions will not be accepted. No "blind box" ads available. POSITIONS AVAILABLE +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ SEEKING EMPLOYMENT <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> Thank You for Reading. For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests, please send an E-Mail to mstrjwlr@spartanburg.net. SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION: We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it without modification and not just portions of it. Information provided in this document is provided 'As Is' without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided with the understanding that the author or publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be sought. PRIVACY STATEMENT We want you to know that we honor your privacy. We do not sell, rent, or otherwise disclose our list of subscribers. We assure you that your email address is kept strictly confidential and is not shared with anyone for any reason. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Copyrighted, 2000, B W Simon. All rights reserved. |