May 2009 |
Volume 10 Issue 5 |
circulation over 5,500 |
ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers and anyone else that is interested. We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you think may benefit from it, provided you forward all of it without modification and not just portions of it. This document may NOT be distributed for profit. E-BENCH is a copyrighted newsletter and all rights are reserved! E-BENCH is sent to you each month FREE of charge because of the generous support of our SPONSORS. Please support them with your purchases. |
10th Anniversary SaleThis is Bench Media’s 10th year of helping bench jewelers become more professional at their craft and we are celebrating by offering you tremendous savings throughout the year.All DVD's are 40% OFF or MoreBead & Bright Cut DVD - NOW $24 (was $39.95) Set Em Straight 2 DVD Set - NOW $40 (was $69.95) Favorite Tips DVD - NOW $24 (was $39.95) Customize Your Tools DVD - NOW $24 (was $39.95) Platinum Fabrication DVD - NOW $24 (was $39.95) Difficult Ring Sizings DVD - NOW $24 (was $39.95) Using the PUK DVD - NOW $24 (was $39.95)
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Putting an End to Tubing TwistMaking tubing from a piece of sheet is an important part of bench work. Keeping the seam straight while drawing it down is another story. Making tubing is not too difficult. In a nutshell, you take a piece of sheet that is about four times as wide as the final tubing you desire. Form the tube into a gully to begin the shape, and then taper the end into a draw dog, so that you can grab it and pull. Force the blank into a carved groove in a wooden stump, and then place the draw dog in a hole in back of the draw plate, so that the metal makes just a bit of contact. Using draw tongs, pull the tubing through the hole. Now, as you proceed to the next hole, clamp down on the far side of the tubing with a pair of normal tweezers; this will allow you to guide the metal and prevent it from curling. Each time you pull the tubing through a hole, squeeze down on the tweezers, thereby keeping the seam straight.This Tip is from “101 Bench Tips for Jewelers" written by Alan Revere and published by MJSA/AJM Press. Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts http://www.revereacademy.com |
Southeastern Findings |
Quote Worth Re-Quoting "If you want to be successful, it's just this simple:
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Bench Jewelers Conference2009 Passion Award Winners
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Tips for Working with WaxTo size a wax ring blank, heat an old ring mandrel with your torch or over an alcohol lamp. Then slide the wax ring blank down the warm mandrel melting the wax until you reach your desired size. Slide the ring blank off, flip it over and slide it back down the mandrel to size the other side. Remove the blank carefully and wipe the excess wax off the mandrel with a paper towel or allow it to cool and peel the wax off. When carving hard waxes it is easy to judge the thickness of the wax by the amount of light showing through. To make it easier, purchase a light box at an art supply store or hobby shop. Use the light box as a work table as you carve allowing the light to shine through the wax. An alternative to the light box is to use a small florescent light fixture made to mount under a shelf. Lay the light on your workbench with the light shining up and use the diffuser as your work surface. To cut down on the glare from the light cover the diffuser with construction paper or shop towels leaving an opening for your work area. You can use your rubber mold vulcanizer to recycle hard wax scraps. Place a mold frame on a mold frame plate and fill the mold with clean scraps of wax. Make certain all the scraps are the same type of wax. Then place the frame with the wax scraps in your vulcanizer and set the temperature to the melting temperature of the wax. When melted, carefully remove the frame and allow it to cool. Once cooled pop the wax from the frame, and you have a new sheet of carving wax. The wax sheet will be thicker on the edges, but that can be easily trimmed if you want an even sheet. Be certain to remove all traces of wax from the frame before making a rubber mold. Buy a cookie sheet that will fit over the opening in your lap tray. The kind with a half inch lip all the way around works best. Place the cookie sheet over your lap tray when carving wax. You can then easily dump the contents into the waste basket when finished and keep the wax filings out of your lap tray and from mixing with your metal scraps. For more tips on Stonesetting visit our Stonesetting Blog at: http://BenchMedia.typepad.com
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DIOPSIDE Diopside generally occurs as a brown to blackish mineral, some of which displays an excellent star when cut in the cabochon style. These are often sold in Asia to tourists as black star sapphires, but star diopside exhibits only four rays, not the six of star sapphire. Nevertheless, it is a fairly durable stone and a great choice for pendants or earrings. Diopside is somewhat heat sensitive, and certainly will not withstand the heat of re-tipping with a torch. The green variety, colored by the element chromium, is found in the rural mountains, can be faceted, and was covered earlier. It gets very dark as the size increases, and it is very difficult to polish and quite brittle. While it can be pretty, it does not really fit the classical definition of a gemstone, which requires rarity, beauty and durability. However, it is becoming increasingly common and you need to be aware that it needs to be treated as a heat sensitive fragile material. It is not suitable for rings. You can contact Wayne Emery at wayne_emery@msn.com
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Quote Worth Re-Quoting" You miss 100 percent of the shots you never take."
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60% OFF Laser Welding Products through June 20th - Our Lowest Prices Ever!You can now buy these two packages at prices we have never offered before. An Amazing Amount of Knowledge at an Incredible Low Price!Decades of Knowledge – A Lifetime of Value Laser Welding Combo
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Director of Technical Education Platinum - Durability vs. Scratching One of the most frequently asked questions about platinum concerns scratching. It seems the consumer equates durability with scratch resistance and is then disappointed when the platinum jewelry scratches and shows signs of wear. Let me say that all metal scratches, from the finest steel to the finest platinum! There is a major difference between durability and scratch resistance. Platinum is very durable. When scratched, the scratch actually displaces the metal, leaving ridges on the edges of the scratch. This is where durability comes in. Whereas other precious metals, if scratched, lose metal, and thus wear down, platinum does so at a much slower rate. This is why finishes on other precious jewelry wear off, prongs wear down and the rings actually become thinner and may even wear through with time. Because many gold products, white or otherwise, are plated, and plating is creating a hard skin, they seem to have more scratch resistance than platinum. But soon the plating wears off and the material scratches in daily wear. With platinum, this is a different story. Many pieces from the turn of the century have engravings that look like new, beads that hold stones appear to be just made and the overall signs of wear seem insignificant on platinum jewelry. A platinum wedding band will last a life time. As platinum scratches, it will develop a patina-like appearance that will last. This is the reason why many designers prefer satin finishes, brushed and sand-blast finishes over the bright polished look. Polished platinum, especially the iridium alloys, will display a bright natural white color. In spite of daily wear and scratching, this finish will endure for a long time. For more Tip to Working on Platinum Jewelry from Jurgen Maerz visit our Platinum Blog at: http://BenchMedia.typepad.com/platinumguru
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Quote Worth Re-Quoting " A lot of frustrated artist are people who didn't Jimmy Buffett
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Tips and Methods for Creating Jump RingsJewelers use jump rings extensively as chain components, connectors, and linking devices for multiple construction problems. Here are a few tips and methods for creating jump rings: Most jump rings are round, but other shapes can be made-it just depends on the cross section of the mandrel rod they are wound around. Whatever shape mandrel you use, I recommend using steel because the wire stays put after being wound. (I also like to use drill bits as mandrels.) Broken burs, old needle file handles, and round metal rods make great mandrels. When making your own mandrels, cut a slit into the end of the rod to permit the wire end to catch when you're winding it. You can also drill a hole through the rod for the wire end. It's a good idea to anneal the wire before you begin. Coil the wire into a tin can while annealing to avoid accidentally overheating one section of wire. The metal can creates a muffle, which provides more even heat for the wire. You should straighten the wire before winding it onto the mandrel. My favorite method of straightening wire is to stretch it. Place one end in a fixed vice, grab the other end in a stout pair of pliers, and stretch it the same way you'd pull a wire when drawing. After straightening, wind the wire into a coil on the mandrel. You can make a jump ring coil by using an old-fashioned hand drill to hold the mandrel. Clamp the drill handle into a vice and chuck the mandrel into its jaws. Carefully feed the wire onto the mandrel while slowly and steadily cranking the drill. Kink the end of the wire to a right angle and slip it into the jaws of the chuck. Feed the wire through tightly gripped fingers, keeping tension on it as you wind. This will keep the jump rings taut. http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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The Metal Plating BibleThe Definitive Guide To Metal Plating This book is about plating metal in general and not just jewelry specific. However at 123 pages in length, it contains all the information you ever wanted to know about plating metal (it even has a section on plating over plastic). Several professional electro-chemists combined their knowledge in producing this authoritative guide on metal plating. Chapters include: Introduction to Electroplating, Electroplating Process Description, Solution Formulation, Preparation for Electroplating, Safety Hazards, Plating Bath Compositions, Operating Conditions, And Much More! This downloadable eBook is only $37. For all the Details go to: http://www.MetalPlatingGuide.com |
Quote Worth Re-Quoting "At least 80% of millionaires are self-made. Brian Tracy |
Waste Not Want Not
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