ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers and anyone else that is interested. We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you think may benefit from it, provided you forward all of it without modification and not just portions of it. This document may NOT be distributed for profit. E-BENCH is a copyrighted newsletter and all rights are reserved!
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Tips for Jewelers Who
Do Repairs
By Alan Revere |
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The Sky is the Limit
To work with control and exactness, you have to be able to see like a hawk. You need to see when surfaces are flat, when corners are square, when prongs make full contact – and to recognize a difference of 0.1 mm!
Here is one way to look at jewelry so that you can see the finest, most precise details: Hold your work up against a bright sky – or a bright wall or light, so that all you can see is the silhouette of the work piece. Now turn and examine the silhouette, because it is very revealing. Using this technique, you can see the sliver of light under a prong. You can clearly see if an edge of gold is flat when held against a steel ruler. And you can see if the two sides of a seam are really flush. And once you see them, you can correct them.
Apply this simple technique, and you will add precision in everything you do. And the more exacting you are the more success you will achieve – in fact, the sky is the limit!
This Tip is from “101 Bench Tips for Jewelers" written by Alan Revere and published by MJSA/AJM Press.
Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts http://www.revereacademy.com
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Southeastern Findings
Southeastern Findings has been a leader in the
wholesalejewelry business forthe past 27
years servicing
the Independent Jeweler. We
are Findings, Diamonds,
Wedding Bands, Jewelry
Boxes, Platinum, Batteries,
Tools, and So Much
More.
Call us Today at 1-800-282-8285 or visit us at:
http://www.sefindings.com
Namano / Southeastern Findings
Your Home for Southern Hospitality |
Quote Worth Re-Quoting
"The highest courage is to dare to be yourself in the face of adversity.
Choose right over wrong, ethics over convenience,
and truth over popularity … these are the choices that measure your life.
Travel the path of integrity without looking back,
for there is never a wrong time to do the right thing. "
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St. Louis ~ April 23 – 25, 2009
Bench Jewelers Conference
Sponsors |
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Favorite Bench Tips
By Brad Simon
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By-Pass Ring Shank
Rings with by-pass shanks are right hand and left hand specific and are not interchangeable. When creating a ring with a by-pass shank, the side of the shank closest to the hand should come from the side of little finger. The ring will then sit straight on the finger. This is because the skin joining the fingers together is lower between the little finger and the ring finger than between the ring finger and the middle finger. If the ring is created with the shank going the other way, the shank will contact the hand on the middle finger side first and cause the ring to twist while wearing it.
For more tips on Stonesetting visit our Stonesetting Blog at: http://BenchMedia.typepad.com
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Quote Worth Re-Quoting
"The future doesn't just happen, it is created …
our destiny is not in the stars,
but in ourselves.
We may need to follow in the wake of those who have gone before,
but what we do and where we go is ultimately up to us.
The attitude of initiative is an on-
going state of exploration that is never finished ...
a journey that never ends."
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The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources.
Open to the public Free of Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual visitor and the
professional, also host the popular Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
Visit us at www.ganoskin.com |
Handling
Colored Stones
from
Gemstone Cutter
Wayne Emery |
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ANDALUSITE
Not commonly seen in recent years, andalusite can be a real beauty. When properly cut, the stone displays two colors at once (this effect is called pleochroism); in the case of a long oval, light olive green in the middle and pink to brownish-red on each end. This is definitely an attention-getter!
Named after the locality where it was first discovered, Andalusia (Spain), Brazil is the primary source today, with some material coming from Sri Lanka and East Africa. Most cut gems are in the 1-5 carat range, with nice stones over 10 carats quite rare.
The Mohs hardness has been reported at anywhere from 6.5 to 7.5, so it is quite hard, but andalusite is somewhat brittle, and care should be used in setting. Bezels are not advised.
Aside from the slight brittleness, andalusite presents no handling difficulties, but direct heat or sudden heat changes should be avoided. Pickle is not a problem, nor is ultrasonic cleaning.
You can contact Wayne Emery at wayne_emery@msn.com
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Quote Worth Re-Quoting
"And I will do whatever you ask in my name,
so that the Son may bring glory to the Father.
You may ask me for anything in my name, and I will do it."
John 14: 13 & 14
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Rio Grande
For over 60 years, Rio Grande, a full-line
jewelry supplier,hasprovided quality
products, unsurpassed selection and legendary
service to help professional
jewelers succeed.
* Gems & Findings division offers finished
jewelry, findings and gemstones
* Display & Packaging division offers
innovative display and packaging
* Tools division offers equipment and supplies
Call us at 1-800-545-6566 or visit us at http://www.riogrande.com |
Working with Platinum
Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ |
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Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.platinumguild.com
Making a Better Bench Pin:
Cutting Prong Seats Safely
By filing a small groove into your bench pin, you can make the task of cutting stone seats into prongs much easier. Simply rest the prong in the groove as you cut the seat. This will eliminate the danger of having the bur travel around the prong if you slip; instead, it will end up in the wood.
For more Tip to Working on Platinum Jewelry from Jurgen Maerz visit our Platinum Blog at: http://BenchMedia.typepad.com/platinumguru
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Quote Worth Re-Quoting
"Our greatest glory consists not in never falling...
but in rising every time we fall."
Ralph Waldo Emerson
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Workshop Tips
by Charles Lewton-Brain |
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Drawing Wire
To find the correct hole to put the wire in take the back end of the wire and test it in the front holes of the drawplate. When you find the hole it will not fit into, then the correct hole is the next one down.
Always lubricate either the hole in the drawplate or the wire. Jewelers use either beeswax or oil as lubricants. I prefer oil.
To make the taper on the end of the wire, one may file a tapered groove into a flat slope on the bench pin, lay the end of the wire in it and rotate it while one files the wooden slope. This automatically generates a smooth and even taper and is how pinstems are tapered when one only has to do one or two.
An easier method of tapering which simultaneously hardens the point somewhat and prevents its breaking off easily during drawing is to step roll the point in the wire rolls of a hand rolling mill. Roll the end in slightly, back it out and put it in again at 90 degrees to the first direction, then go to the next smallest hole and do the same thing only not as far in on the wire. Continue in this way until you have a smooth tapered point. Tubing can also be step rolled to get a taper on the end for drawing it. One can solder the tapered end for more strength.
The trick to drawing wire by hand is to grasp the tapered end that sticks out the front of the drawplate with the pliers in such a way that there is around 5 mm of play (movement back and forth to the drawplate). Push the draw tongs up to the plate so that when you start to pull there is a little movement before the wire begins to be compressed by the plate. If it starts drawing with a jerk the inertia carries the wire on and as long as you keep on moving it will not break easily. If you don't start by using this jerk (usually obtained by bending the elbows and throwing your body back until your body’s weight going backwards starts the wire moving) it can be hard to start it.
In many cultures one sits on the ground, draws the knees up, places the drawplate against your feet and then straightens ones legs to draw the wire. Leg muscles are much stronger than arm muscles and it is quite effective.
One can obtain various shapes by using a square and round drawplate. The wires start out as either round or square and are drawn together with frequent annealing until the proper shapes are achieved. For example a square or round wire is flattened, folded over, soldered to close the 'loop' and drawn through a square hole in the drawplate to produce two triangular wires or two rectangular wires. Half round and quarter round wire can be made by drawing two or four wires through a round drawplate. One has to work with care to make this technique work well.
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm |
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Quote Worth Re-Quoting
"Don't put off for tomorrow what you can do today,
because if you enjoy it today, you can do it again tomorrow."
James Michener
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10th Anniversary Special
In 1999 Bench Media published Run Your Shop Without It RunningYou. For the past 10 years, it has been the Best Selling book on Jewelry Shop Management. In celebration of the 10th anniversary of the book you can now read it online free.
A Practical Guide to Efficient Shop Management, Run Your Shop Without It Running You offers jewelers useful advice to managing their shop. Take-In Procedures, Setting-Up a Shop, Pricing Repairs, and Productivity in the Shop are just a few of the subjects covered in this 154-page manual.
Read it now at:
http://benchbusiness.com/runyourshop/index.html
Throughout the United States, Repair Shops in Jewelry Stores operate on the 80/20 principle. That is the repair shop produces 80% of the problems, and only 20% of the income.
IT DOES NOT HAVE TO BE THIS WAY!
Run Your Shop Without It Running You will show you how you can have a shop that is efficient and profitable. Shop Services has become such an important part of the store, we can no longer ignore it. Retail Jewelers need to learn how to make their shops efficient and profitable or their business will suffer.
There was a time when margins on diamonds and other jewelry were high enough to cover the expenses of the shop. However, in today's competitive retail environment, with discount store chains, TV shopping channels, and the Internet selling jewelry, this has rapidly changed. With price sheets, grading reports, and stock numbers in hand, consumers are price comparing now more than ever.
With more and more pressure on retailers to keep margins close on the products they sell, the stores who survive will be the ones who look to other areas of their business to generate a profit. The shop is a prime target in most stores. In the years ahead, the shop may very well be the most important asset for the independent retail jeweler.
It Is Now More Important Then Ever To Operate The Shop Professionally And Profitably.
In the ever-changing business environment, retail jewelers are compelled to make every aspect of their business profitable. If a store is to survive in the future, not only can it not support a loss in the shop; the shop must contribute to the profits of the store.
Years ago dinosaurs roamed the earth. Their inability to adapt to their environment caused them to become extinct. The history of American business is cluttered with similar dinosaurs, businesses that at one time were leaders in their field. However, because of their refusal to change with the business environment, like the dinosaurs before them, they are now extinct.
The retail jewelry industry is no different. The business environment has changed over the years, and business practices must change along with it. No longer can the shop be the Necessary Evil, the Achilles Heel of the retail jewelry industry. The shop must be able to stand on its own and provide its share of profits to the store. Then, the store will not just survive in the future, it will THRIVE.
Go to:
http://benchbusiness.com/runyourshop/index.html
To read Run Your Shop Without It Running You
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RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT
IT
RUNNING YOU
by Brad Simon |
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Waste Not Want Not
Part 1
When it comes to recovering precious metal, nothing is worthless. However, when you walk into many repair shops you will find people behaving as if it were. Many people do not realize what a valuable asset their scrap is, and have been pleasantly surprised by the amount of additional revenues received from a refiner when a clean and orderly shop is maintained.
A dirty shop affects profits, because of the high value of the metal that is lost. Small pieces of gold on the floor from filing, buffing, and other operations in the shop cling to the bottom of shoes. If the floor is not swept regularly, the gold literally walks out the door of the shop. If not collected at the source, gold dust is spread around the shop. It is then carried out of the shop on workers’ hands, clothes, and shoes.
Always use your lap tray to collect metal filings and save these filings in a container to send to a refiner. Some refiners will supply you with a plastic jar with a screw top lid for these sweeps. Any type of container with a wide mouth top may be used; an old coffee can with a plastic lid will work well.
Place a piece of leather or matte board in the bottom of your lap tray. This will aid you in cleaning the sweeps out of your lap tray. Pick up the leather by the corners and dump the sweeps into the container. This also helps protect stones from the hard metal bottom of the lap tray when accidentally dropped.
Change the filters on your polishing machine regularly. This not only helps profits by accumulating more precious metal dust, but also improves the health of the workers by not having to breathe all the dust and dirt into their lungs. If dust accumulates on the wall near where the air comes out of the dust collector you have waited too long to clean it out and replace the filter.
Over the next few months we will look at additional tips to accumulating precious metal scraps in the shop.
~ Brad
Go to:http://benchbusiness.com/runyourshop/index.html
To read Run Your Shop Without It Running You |
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