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Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
from Alan Revere
Advice from Aristotle:
Excellence begins even prior to the first step.
It is a little-known fact that the Greek philosopher Aristotle was also an accomplished bench jeweler. This is obvious because of his famous adage, which is so applicable to making jewelry: Well done is half done. In most things, getting a good start is important. But in jewelry work, it is critical to success.
In every craft, there is an order to putting things together: some things must be done first, and then everything that follows is dependent on how well that first step was executed. Did you ever see a house builder put up one wall, hang the windows, and paint the shutters before laying out the footprint of the entire building? Of course not! So before you begin, think through every step and sub-step of the job ahead, and then arrange them in the correct sequence.
Once the job has been started, do your very best at every step, treating it with the same care and precision that you applied at the beginning. And, no matter how fast or slow you are working; take the time to enjoy every job. Remember that you are heir to a long line of goldsmiths who for 7,000 years have transformed ideas into objects of desire—not by speeding through the process or cutting corners, but by committing themselves to excellence, long before the first step was ever taken. Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts http://www.revereacademy.com |
Quote Worth Re-Quoting
"Don't put it down, put it away."
Kathy Peel
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Learn all About Handling
Colored Stones
from
Gemstone Cutter Wayne Emery
JADE
There are two distinct minerals referred to as jade. “Precious” jade, or jadeite comes in a wide range of colors including green, bluish green, greenish blue, orange to red to brown, lavender, shades of cream to yellow and a flat white called “chicken bone”. Mixed colors are common.
Nephrite, a separate mineral, usually occurs in whitish gray to shades of green, but the greens are more muted and less pure. Often, it is seen in a “spinach” color. It is available widely at very low prices.
While nephrite is widespread in its occurrence and exists by the millions of tons in the North Cascade Mountains of Washington all the way north to Alaska, jadeite is much rarer. The primary source of the much more prized jadeite is Burma. While much of this material is processed in China, there are no sources of fine jadeite in China, contrary to popular belief.
Although the colors of jadeite are often much better than the usual drab colors of nephrite, and the values thus much higher, for purposes of our discussion the material can be handled in the same way. Both nephrite jade and jadeite are at the very top of the toughness scale. While neither is as hard as diamond, or anywhere near it, they are much tougher than diamond. Their ability to resist chipping or breaking by percussive blows is unmatched in the mineral kingdom which is good news for bench workers!
Jades are best protected from torch heat whenever possible and are generally unharmed by immersion in the ultrasonic or the steamer, but, again, the steamer should always be used with care if at all. Pickling solutions present no problems for the jades.
You can contact Wayne Emery at wayne_emery@msn.com
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Quote Worth Re-Quoting
"A Prudent person forsees the danger ahead
and takes precautions. The simpleton goes
blindly on
and suffers the consequences."
Proverbs 27:12
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Tips & Tricks from Brad Simon
3M Polishing Papers
3M Polishing Papers are great to use to finish platinum; here are two methods to use them efficiently.
In the top of the picture, I cut the polishing papers into one inch strips and placed them in order with the coarsest on top. I placed the stack of polishing papers on a paint stir and stapled one end to it and left the other end loose. To use it hold the paint stir like a file with your index finger extended holding the loose ends down tight. When finished with the first grit, fold it over and you are ready for the next grit. You can go through all the grits in order without stopping to find the right sanding stick and you will never use them out of order.
In the bottom of the picture, I cut strips ½ inch wide and 6 inches long. I taped one end to an expandable rubber sanding drum and wrapped the strip around it. Place in your flex-shaft or micro-motor and you can easily polish the inside of rings or other curved surfaces.
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Quote Worth Re-Quoting
"Some people count time,
others make time count." |
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Tips That Make Working with Platinum Easier
from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ
Flat Sanding Surfaces
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
CD’s make great flat sanding surfaces for your polishing motor. Apply adhesive to one side of a CD and place it on the back side of sanding or polishing paper.
Then, using a sharp knife, cut around it and expose the hole in the center. It can now be placed on the spindle of your polishing motor, making a perfectly flat sanding or polishing surface.
If the CD seems too flexible, glue two or three CDs together before attaching the sanding paper. Slide a ring mandrel through the hole in the stack of CDs while the glue dries, to make certain they all line up perfectly. |
Quote Worth Re-Quoting
"The world stands aside to let anyone pass
who knows where he is going."
David Staff Jordan
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Tips for Jewelers Taking In Jewelry
at the
Repair Counter.
Proper Take-In Procedures Help Everyone!
When taking in a broken chain for repair, first measure and record to the nearest eighth of an inch the total length of all pieces of the chain. If the length is only 10 or 12 inches, you know—and should tell the customer— that a piece of chain is missing.
Next, measure (again to the nearest eighth of an inch) and record the length from the chain’s clasp to the break. If the customer brings the chain in again, this record shows if the chain’s broken in a new or in the repaired spot.
NEVER accept a chain from a customer wrapped in a tissue and place it into an envelope without unwrapping, measuring, and inspecting it thoroughly in view of the customer.
Before placing in the job envelope, place chains in small zip-lock bag with the catch sticking out of the top. This will keep the chain from tangling. When removing, hold chain by clasp and lift out of the bag. Do not the open bag and dump it out. |
Quote Worth Re-Quoting
"Truth is a torch that shines through the fog
without dispelling it. Always be true to your work,
your word, and your friends,
and you will never live a day without peace." |
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Bench Jewelers Passion Award
Design Competition
CALL FOR ENTRIES
The fourth annual Bench Jewelers Passion Award Design Competition will be held in conjunction with the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles, CA. The competition is open to all professional Bench Jewelry Artist and Designers actively involved in the design and production of jewelry. The Passion Award Jewelry Design Contest consists of two divisions, one for finished jewelry and one for CAD renderings.
For details, contest rules, and to enter the competition log onto: www.BWSimon.com/DesignContest
For information on the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo log onto:
www.BenchConference.com
All jewelry submitted for the Finished Jewelry Division must be original, and designed and made by the jeweler entering the contest. No trade shops or other jewelers can work on the piece of jewelry. The Finished Jewelry Division categories are: Men’s Jewelry, Ladies Rings, Ladies Jewelry other than rings, Laser Fabricated Jewelry, and a category for jewelry that was designed by a Design Team.
All renderings in the CAD Rendering Division must be original and created by the jeweler entering the contest using 3D computer software. The jewelry rendered must be able to be made by a jeweler using reasonable skills. The CAD Renderings Division categories are: Men’s Jewelry, Ladies Rings, and Ladies Jewelry other than rings.
Jewelers may enter both divisions and may enter one piece per category in up to three categories in each Division. Photographs of the finished jewelry or CAD renderings must be submitted over the Internet with a completed entry form. Entry fees must be paid with a credit card at time of entry. To submit entries log onto:
www.BWSimon.com/DesignContest
1st and 2nd place will be awarded in each category. All Passion Award winners will receive a Trophy, Cash Award, and Publicized in trade publications. Winners will be announced on Friday April 25, 2008 during the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo. Jewelers entering the contest are encouraged to attend; however, attendance at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo is not necessary to enter the contest or to win an award. In addition, a Jewelers Choice Award will be presented on Sunday April 27, 2008. Jewelers attending the Bench Jewelers Conference and Expo will select the Jewelers Choice recipient from among the Passion Award winners.
Deadline for submissions is March 15, 2008.
Contest Chairman: Mark Grosser
For details, contest rules, and to enter the competition log onto:www.BWSimon.com/DesignContest |
Workshop Safety Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
FUMES, VAPORS and MIST
FUMES
Fumes are small particles of a material, often from metals that have been melted. These may be very tiny and can be breathed into the lungs. Metal fume fever is a real hazard with molten metals. It has numerous names, the nastiest of which is the Smothers. Metal fume fever can be caused by zinc, copper, magnesium, aluminum, copper, antimony, cadmium, iron, or silver. The particles are so small (0.01-0/5 microns) that they stay in the air a long time. Because they are so tiny they go deeper into your lungs and can then dissolve more easily within your body.
I have known a number of people to experience metal fume fever, from zinc while casting or reticulating brass and once from copper, because they did not use adequate ventilation. Casting brass is a particular culprit, often because ventilation is frequently a hood type above a casting machine and the fumes are then drawn past the workers face on their way out. So, do not cast brass unless you can help it, use very good ventilation when melting or reticulating metals, and if you must do it then use the correct respirator.
VAPORS
You get vapors when you turn a liquid into a gas, for example water evaporates to make water vapor. The vapors jewelers worry about most are from solvents, acids, and simmering solutions. Remember that things can vaporize at room temperature - even frozen sheets will dry on the line in the cold. Mercury vaporizes at room temperature.
MIST
Mists are small droplets of chemicals in liquid form. If one quenches into a pickle pot for instance a mist is formed. It has been shown that in factory situations people exposed to mists of sulfuric acid develop pitted enamel in their teeth. Mists are more toxic than vapors because they deliver a more concentrated solution to spots in the lungs and elsewhere.
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm |
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